[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 19-Mar-01 AT 10:29 PM (EST)[/font][p]Hey!,
I wonder if anybody know a way to "fix" pitted aluiminum from rock chips on a '70 grille shell?I polish trim till my arm falls off but this is different.It needs to be sanded or ? first but wondered if anybody has done this?I know aluminum burns easy.I got a perfect shell with no dents but the rock dings are keepin me up at night thinkin about itTruck will be painted next weekend and i just gotta get that shell right!
Any ideas?Anything welcome whether you have done it or not.Remember,this stuff is thin.Thanks!!
...blue


1970 F250 Sport Custom 4x4.351W,N.P.435,Dana24,Dana's on both ends,4.10:1's,36X9.00 ag Kings,blue/white.Big truck,big fun.Makes Chevy guys snear and red facedWhy?,it's just a ol Ford.hehehe

 

The grille has a protective coating on it, if you remove that protective coating, it will be a bear to maintain after that. I think it's call anodizing and this was a topic of big discussion a little while back.
someone wanted to remove the coating and polish the trim piece and have it re-anodized. He said the metal shop wanted HUGE money for the job (i think it was over $1,500).
Someone suggested using EasyOff oven cleaner to remove the coating, then polishing the piece.
Someone even tested over the counter clear paint from a can, like DupliColor, and it seemed to hold up well.

I used clear paint from a can for my alum intake and it's working real well (except for direct gas spills) to compare, the dist is not painted and it looks bad already, I wish I had clear coated it as well. The clear coat leaves a shinny finish but you might like that, I'd polish some alum scrap piece and the clear coat it and see if you like it.

I was thinking of clear powder coating, but the piece is pretty large to heat. Eastwood makes an at home powder coating system and Harbor freight tools sells them too.

 

Thanks Karl.I forgot about the coating.I recall it now from polishing rocker trim,I burned through the coat in one spot and it looked like new under that!Yeah,!

Well,I might just polish what i already got,the grille will look good at 6 feet,thats gonna have ta do.!
Thanks.
...blue

 

Oleblue, how ya been? haven't heard from you in a while, I worked on my old truck Brand X with the same problem and those shells are coated It might be some kind of anodize but it comes off with a scotch pad just start with a rough one and keep going finer the problem is you have to clear coat it or something afterwards or it will turn dark. you could even wet sand it start with about 400 then 600 then 1000 then polish with compound. you could try a urethane clear like they use for a top coat on paint jobs that should hold up for a while. BTW did you see the pics of my stang? they are in general conversation under "its finally time" John

 

'sup John,
I've ben busy trying to get this truck ready for this weekend,then the fun begins,I have 1500 bucks worth of stuff from AutoCrafters,Dennis Carpanter,LMC to put on.Then all the other stuff.I have the truck stripped clean of everything but wiring,driveline.Will put pics after the paint.I think everybody seen it in primer!Thanks for the info.I Will try that approach on another shell i got to see how that would work.I am using a stand mounted buffer with a 1/2hp motor.The shell(believe it or not)can be buffed mostly with that!,small areas will get the air power but thanks again,and i hope something works.
Later,
...blue
PS,headin over to check out your Wild Pony








1970 F250 Sport Custom 4x4.351W,N.P.435,Dana24,Dana's on both ends,4.10:1's,36X9.00 ag Kings,blue/white.Big truck,big fun.Makes Chevy guys snear and red facedWhy?,it's just a ol Ford.hehehe

 

Hey John,
Just checked it out.You do good work!I like the frost color.A friend had a Cal Spec it was gold with black top/interior.Had a 240 in it (i think).But yeah he sold it about 5 years ago for 1500.Was kinda crusty and he had the "87-up 'stang bug.
Later.