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  #61  
Old 05-11-2009, 10:12 PM
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http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...0/460motor.jpg Here is where i am at now complete short block i will have the rest done tomorrow. As for cam selection i am going to convert to MAF so i have lots of posibilities i chose an of the shelf cam that will do every thing i need and be very driveable. I am not after the biggest HP#'s to be had nor another mud truck just a strong daily driver that will hold it's own in the diesel croud. I am how ever thinking of some (boost) in the future just have too come up with the funds?
 
  #62  
Old 05-12-2009, 06:06 PM
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Subscribing for future updates.
 
  #63  
Old 05-12-2009, 07:17 PM
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http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...din660/460.jpg Well it is together tomorrow morning i will start putting it back in the truck. can't wait to get it all done and driveable.
 
  #64  
Old 05-15-2009, 09:14 PM
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well its together and runnig but not with out issues. It will not not crank up when cold and idel on its own have to warm it up like an old carb motor. It doesn't act like i thought it would. i figured it would surge real bad but once it warms up its liveable but not right. It pulls harder in mid range and once the sun went down i got it to smoke the hell out of the tires. I just wonder whats being left on the table not having MAF? There has to be more it just doesn't feel right. But its all back together with no real problems i will just have to work out the bugs.
 
  #65  
Old 05-15-2009, 11:57 PM
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has to be either too lean or too rich post up an overall list of the mods done so far i lost track but i would say just go get the speed density re tuned or if it is really too lean (i don't think it is considering it runs better at night when the air is more dense but i honestly couldnt tell you) some bigger injectors may be in order even though you should be more than fine with the stock ones if i remember your list right. it should have a good bit more power at this point
 
  #66  
Old 05-16-2009, 10:52 AM
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Mods todate.
Total rebuild using oem parts 8:1 comp
Surfaced heads and block nothing major
Ported upper and lower intake (opeaned the upper alot)
Ported heads intake side gasket mactched, bowl work, blended it to a good polish
Exhaust side full port and polish
comp cam @50 212 219 .490 .495 on a 114LS matching springs
under drive pulleys 180 degree T-stat base timing 13 fuel pressure set@ 45psi
I now the SD is not keeping up because it will not crank right up and run and in second or third if i gas on it. It will pull, go flat stop pulling then start pulling again but it will not do this every time the next time it may not pull strong at all. I tried the fuel pressure at 50-45-40 psi ran best at 45psi but on the dyno i had it higher than this to make it right. SD sucks
 
  #67  
Old 05-16-2009, 06:13 PM
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just need to get it re tuned same as most motors even new, change it then it needs to be re tuned
 
  #68  
Old 05-16-2009, 08:23 PM
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capn kirk,
Do you mean he needs to get his SD computer tuned to the new setup? If so, how do you do that? If he converts to mass-air, would it need to be tuned, or would it be able to adapt to the new modifications (and any that might come in the future)?

P.S. congrats on your new movie, it was great!
 
  #69  
Old 05-16-2009, 09:11 PM
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Well things have changed i fixed my headers leak only to find another problem. i either have a lifter that will not stay pumped up or my cam is going flat. I drained my oil and strained it for metal and found nothing so i am pretty sure it is a bad lifter. I got the intake off of it but i still could not tell any thing i will pull the pass valve cover in the morning and see if i can't tell which one it is. this really sucks
 
  #70  
Old 05-17-2009, 06:51 AM
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what kind of oil did you use to break in the cam? did you use a zinc additive? such as GM EOS or john deer break in oil, or tractor oil/tractor trailer oil-- this is other than the stuff that is on your cam when you first install it, and if you put too much of that stuff on it it will run off your cam lobes and also cause your cam to go flat.

what kind of lifters did you use, comp cams had a batch of crappy lifters that not only caused cams to go flat but wouldn't pump up, crane and speed pro had the same problem, i try to only use lunati lifters- i have never had a problem with them, imho lunati makes the best cams as well comp also had a problem with the hardening process on some of their cams and that would cause them to go flat
 
  #71  
Old 05-17-2009, 07:27 AM
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I would replace all the lifters
i just had to replace my Comp Cam lifters (got a bad set--part 832-16)----it was about $90 for the set
make sure to soak them in oil for a bit
 
  #72  
Old 05-17-2009, 07:49 AM
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If the cam turns out to be your problem, last week's episode (I think) of Horsepower (on Spike) had a segment on breaking in cams. They went over different types of oils, lifter soaking, etc.. You might be able to watch it on their website.
 
  #73  
Old 05-17-2009, 08:22 AM
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actually your not supposed to soak them in oil because that causes them to "pump up" and then it is almost impossible to set your initial valve lash. i never soak my lifters before putting them on a cam
 
  #74  
Old 05-17-2009, 09:22 AM
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I am subscribing too. i have almost all the mods you are doing minus the rebuild and curios what your truck dynos at and i have a vortech waiting to go on once i get a couple small pieces.

My truck is a 96 F350,crew cab,4x4,460,5spd,3:55,6",lift,35"tires,Banks Torque Tubes/y pipe,high flow 3" cat,20 series flowmaster, custom bent 3" exhaust, BBK throttle body, Banks Ram Air intake, venturie horns cut out, And Taylor 8mm wires. Cant wait for the vortech and 4:56 gears
 
  #75  
Old 05-17-2009, 04:28 PM
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I have found the problem and its not that bad just a bent push rod must have been there all along. I will start putting it all back together in the next 30min. Diesel_Brad you got the right idea I to can't wait for the Vortec. Just have to come up with the funds
 


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