I have had a look in the technical section for a procedure on changing the plugs in a V10 but can't find one.

I read about horror stories in changing the plugs on the 3 valve engine but is it the same for the 2 valve?

I have a 2004 E350 based Chinook RV with only 26,000 miles (bought new in Yakima) and the MIL light did come on and I could feel the misfire. My cheap chinese diagnostics gave it as a misfire on number 9 cylinder. I reset the light and gave the engine a really good rev. Sounded good and have not had the MIL light on again but can feel a very very slight uneveness on tick over. Bought a new Ford COP but would normally have a look at the plug as well.

Then I read about the huge problem with these heads and plugs.

I am now in the UK and the last thing I want to do is break a plug as getting it fixed here would be very difficult and expensive.

So any advice on the steps to change the plugs without breaking them would be very welcome.

 

Here is all you need to know with photos ;
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...th-photos.html

Just to clarify, 3-valve spark plugs are different , 2-v plugs do not have breaking issue . Been there done that , you will need 1-compressor to blow the debris out of spark plug hole, 2-torque wrench ( I used 14 lb-ft ,ford spec, but you may hear a lot of different arguments ) , 3- dielectric silicone grease for rubber boot-plug interface, 4-Anti-sieze on plug threads .

It is highly recommended that you change the rubber boots along with the plugs and use Motocraft plugs only .

Good luck,

 

I've now found the procedure and some more information.

If I'm getting the info understood correctly the real problem is with the 2 piece plugs used in the 3valve engine. Also the number of threads were increased in 2004.

SO hopefully my 2004 2 valve engine does not have the plugs that break easily and also have more threads than the pre 2004 engines.

Perhaps someone could confirm that the 2 valve engine has less risk if crefully changing plugs.

Thanks, Mike

 

Sorry ...posted before seing reply above from Wolfboro. Many thanks for the advice. I'm going to give it a go on the suspected cylinder and perhaps then change all. I'll stick with Motocraft.

 

Replaced all 10 on my F-250 99', be SURE to blow out the cylinder before removing the plug. I've seen leaves and crap in there.
Anti-seize is mandatory too.
Motorcraft Platinums seem to work really well.

 

Thanks for all the advice.

A set of Motorcraft Platinum plugs and a couple of genuine COPs arrived in about 8 days ( Can't seem to get them this side of the pond).

Blew out the spark plug wells and there was plenty of debris so glad I did! The plugs came out without a massive amount of force and the new plugs screwd down finger tight befor nipping them up with my new small torque wrench.

Replaced the coils on no 6 and 9 cylinders as well as these were the two producing fault codes.

Engine is now perfect and pulls uphill without any hesitation.