painting chrome/alluminum
#1
painting chrome/alluminum
I would like to paint my'88 F150 4x4 OD Green, and all of the chrome trim flat black. In addition, it has centerline convo pro alluminum wheels. I am wondering if these can be painted flat black, if the paint will stick, or just chip off. Any help would be appreciated, thanks, T
#3
You may wish to research on the 'net re: painting aluminum, if you want to be certain of good adhesion. When I repainted the bottom of my 22' boat, the paint mfr. required a special (acid?) etch paint to be sprayed, BEFORE a special primer had to be sprayed on, prior to the paint. However, that bottom paint contained a biocide in an ablative bottom paint, and that primer stage MAY have been required to protect the aluminum from the biocide itself--not sure about that. However, as I say, I do believe some paint manufacturers do recommend the bare aluminum be sprayed with an "etching" type of paint, prior to the paint itself, and may possibly also recommend a primer, for a total of three paints (if you want to get crazy).
But having said all that, here's what I did, when painting some wheels:
I painted the beads and outer face of some aluminum Subaru wheels recently, and didn't even use a primer or etcher (which I believe is recommended, when painting aluminum) and it came out fine. I used Rustoleum Gloss Black, in a can.
Keep in mind, however, that as I painted only the bead area (to prevent tire leaks due to the aluminum corrosion) there was not a lot of brake heating involved, way out on the outer edge of the rim--your situation will involve more wheel heating, near the center of the wheel--I can't say if that greater heating will affect your outcome, but I suspect the heat would not be a significant problem.
Now, just to confuse you further (j/k) I recently learned that Rustoleum has come out with a new line of paint that allegedly sticks to ALL surfaces. It's called "Rustoleum UNIVERSAL Advanced Formula (Metallic) "ALL-SURFACE Paint." It's not cheap ($8.64 a can!) but I used it to paint the aluminum alternator bracket under the hood of my F-250, a few months ago, and so far, so good. However, this was weird, silver paint with a cool metalflake in it, and I'm not sure if they offer more normal colors, or flats, etc.... (I just checked the can and it does specificically mention aluminum and under "Preparation" it makes no mention of needing any primer or etch of any kind.) I'm not sure this expensive paint is necessary for a good result for aluminum, as I did not need it for the Subaru wheels, as I say, and both sides of four wheels could get expensive at $8.64 per can. Probably not necessary for a simple, flat-finish paint but, something to consider. (This paint comes with a weird, "ergo-type" trigger built into the top of the can, like nothing I'd ever seen before.)
As was said by others, whatever paint you decide on, do CAREFUL PREPARATION:
1. Sand all scale/dirt off. Wire brush (preferably with an angle grinder, but use a "soft" wire brush or you'll gouge your wheels) any pits or other areas you can't reach with sand paper.
2. Blow off with compressed air.
3. Remove all human finger oil and other contaminants--I like a clean, cotton cloth and acetone, or laquer thinner, to wipe down the item to be painted, immediately before I spray or brush.
Whatever paint you decide on, you may wish to purchase one of Rustoleum's cool "spray gun" type of plastic, universal paint can holders--it allows you to use a "trigger" to push the sprayer down on conventional paint cans, for much less hand fatigue. I think it was $5. It will NOT work with the "UNIVERSAL" type paint's "ergo-type" can top, however, but that paint has it's own built-in trigger on each can, anyway. The Rustoleum "spray gun" can-holder is called a "Comfort Grip."
I do not work for, or have any financial association with, Rustoleum Co., other than having spent a lot of money on their paints, over the years, because I've enjoyed good results with their products. I really do recommend the paint can holder, however--much less hand fatigue.
Good luck.
But having said all that, here's what I did, when painting some wheels:
I painted the beads and outer face of some aluminum Subaru wheels recently, and didn't even use a primer or etcher (which I believe is recommended, when painting aluminum) and it came out fine. I used Rustoleum Gloss Black, in a can.
Keep in mind, however, that as I painted only the bead area (to prevent tire leaks due to the aluminum corrosion) there was not a lot of brake heating involved, way out on the outer edge of the rim--your situation will involve more wheel heating, near the center of the wheel--I can't say if that greater heating will affect your outcome, but I suspect the heat would not be a significant problem.
Now, just to confuse you further (j/k) I recently learned that Rustoleum has come out with a new line of paint that allegedly sticks to ALL surfaces. It's called "Rustoleum UNIVERSAL Advanced Formula (Metallic) "ALL-SURFACE Paint." It's not cheap ($8.64 a can!) but I used it to paint the aluminum alternator bracket under the hood of my F-250, a few months ago, and so far, so good. However, this was weird, silver paint with a cool metalflake in it, and I'm not sure if they offer more normal colors, or flats, etc.... (I just checked the can and it does specificically mention aluminum and under "Preparation" it makes no mention of needing any primer or etch of any kind.) I'm not sure this expensive paint is necessary for a good result for aluminum, as I did not need it for the Subaru wheels, as I say, and both sides of four wheels could get expensive at $8.64 per can. Probably not necessary for a simple, flat-finish paint but, something to consider. (This paint comes with a weird, "ergo-type" trigger built into the top of the can, like nothing I'd ever seen before.)
As was said by others, whatever paint you decide on, do CAREFUL PREPARATION:
1. Sand all scale/dirt off. Wire brush (preferably with an angle grinder, but use a "soft" wire brush or you'll gouge your wheels) any pits or other areas you can't reach with sand paper.
2. Blow off with compressed air.
3. Remove all human finger oil and other contaminants--I like a clean, cotton cloth and acetone, or laquer thinner, to wipe down the item to be painted, immediately before I spray or brush.
Whatever paint you decide on, you may wish to purchase one of Rustoleum's cool "spray gun" type of plastic, universal paint can holders--it allows you to use a "trigger" to push the sprayer down on conventional paint cans, for much less hand fatigue. I think it was $5. It will NOT work with the "UNIVERSAL" type paint's "ergo-type" can top, however, but that paint has it's own built-in trigger on each can, anyway. The Rustoleum "spray gun" can-holder is called a "Comfort Grip."
I do not work for, or have any financial association with, Rustoleum Co., other than having spent a lot of money on their paints, over the years, because I've enjoyed good results with their products. I really do recommend the paint can holder, however--much less hand fatigue.
Good luck.