Notices
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

painting chrome/alluminum

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 11-22-2008, 05:47 PM
FD5150's Avatar
FD5150
FD5150 is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
painting chrome/alluminum

I would like to paint my'88 F150 4x4 OD Green, and all of the chrome trim flat black. In addition, it has centerline convo pro alluminum wheels. I am wondering if these can be painted flat black, if the paint will stick, or just chip off. Any help would be appreciated, thanks, T
 
  #2  
Old 11-22-2008, 06:20 PM
88CougarCoupe's Avatar
88CougarCoupe
88CougarCoupe is offline
Junior User
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
it's all in the prep and if the paint can take the heat from the roads/ brake power. other wise. scuff prime spray. enjoy
 
  #3  
Old 11-22-2008, 07:29 PM
BigSix1's Avatar
BigSix1
BigSix1 is offline
More Turbo
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Northeast
Posts: 630
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
You may wish to research on the 'net re: painting aluminum, if you want to be certain of good adhesion. When I repainted the bottom of my 22' boat, the paint mfr. required a special (acid?) etch paint to be sprayed, BEFORE a special primer had to be sprayed on, prior to the paint. However, that bottom paint contained a biocide in an ablative bottom paint, and that primer stage MAY have been required to protect the aluminum from the biocide itself--not sure about that. However, as I say, I do believe some paint manufacturers do recommend the bare aluminum be sprayed with an "etching" type of paint, prior to the paint itself, and may possibly also recommend a primer, for a total of three paints (if you want to get crazy).

But having said all that, here's what I did, when painting some wheels:

I painted the beads and outer face of some aluminum Subaru wheels recently, and didn't even use a primer or etcher (which I believe is recommended, when painting aluminum) and it came out fine. I used Rustoleum Gloss Black, in a can.

Keep in mind, however, that as I painted only the bead area (to prevent tire leaks due to the aluminum corrosion) there was not a lot of brake heating involved, way out on the outer edge of the rim--your situation will involve more wheel heating, near the center of the wheel--I can't say if that greater heating will affect your outcome, but I suspect the heat would not be a significant problem.

Now, just to confuse you further (j/k) I recently learned that Rustoleum has come out with a new line of paint that allegedly sticks to ALL surfaces. It's called "Rustoleum UNIVERSAL Advanced Formula (Metallic) "ALL-SURFACE Paint." It's not cheap ($8.64 a can!) but I used it to paint the aluminum alternator bracket under the hood of my F-250, a few months ago, and so far, so good. However, this was weird, silver paint with a cool metalflake in it, and I'm not sure if they offer more normal colors, or flats, etc.... (I just checked the can and it does specificically mention aluminum and under "Preparation" it makes no mention of needing any primer or etch of any kind.) I'm not sure this expensive paint is necessary for a good result for aluminum, as I did not need it for the Subaru wheels, as I say, and both sides of four wheels could get expensive at $8.64 per can. Probably not necessary for a simple, flat-finish paint but, something to consider. (This paint comes with a weird, "ergo-type" trigger built into the top of the can, like nothing I'd ever seen before.)

As was said by others, whatever paint you decide on, do CAREFUL PREPARATION:

1. Sand all scale/dirt off. Wire brush (preferably with an angle grinder, but use a "soft" wire brush or you'll gouge your wheels) any pits or other areas you can't reach with sand paper.

2. Blow off with compressed air.

3. Remove all human finger oil and other contaminants--I like a clean, cotton cloth and acetone, or laquer thinner, to wipe down the item to be painted, immediately before I spray or brush.

Whatever paint you decide on, you may wish to purchase one of Rustoleum's cool "spray gun" type of plastic, universal paint can holders--it allows you to use a "trigger" to push the sprayer down on conventional paint cans, for much less hand fatigue. I think it was $5. It will NOT work with the "UNIVERSAL" type paint's "ergo-type" can top, however, but that paint has it's own built-in trigger on each can, anyway. The Rustoleum "spray gun" can-holder is called a "Comfort Grip."

I do not work for, or have any financial association with, Rustoleum Co., other than having spent a lot of money on their paints, over the years, because I've enjoyed good results with their products. I really do recommend the paint can holder, however--much less hand fatigue.

Good luck.
 
  #4  
Old 11-22-2008, 09:10 PM
FD5150's Avatar
FD5150
FD5150 is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
thanks for the info guys
 
  #5  
Old 11-26-2008, 07:26 PM
crestfallinman's Avatar
crestfallinman
crestfallinman is offline
Elder User

Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Bethel Park, Pa
Posts: 833
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
use a self etching primer and prep
i did my mirrors and they turned out amazing
 
  #6  
Old 11-26-2008, 08:23 PM
SouthernBlues's Avatar
SouthernBlues
SouthernBlues is offline
More Turbo
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Homestead
Posts: 608
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Instead of paint you could powdercoat your rims. Powder coat holds up alot better than paint,check around at local paint shops for this option
 




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:38 AM.