still trying to get a straight answer...maybe im just not smart and cant understand if that 1800 is the hub to hub kit????


either way id rather go bolt-in if anyone knows the COMPLETE HUB TO HUB bolt in price let me know


Thanks guys

 

CONSIDERATIONS (When we wrote the Front End Swap Article this was not a choice)
Just some things to consider, along with the other front ifs choices.

The Chevy Nova was classified as a Compact Car, it was a 3200 Lb Vehicle.
The FWD Chevy Nova was last produced in 1979.
The FWD Chevy Nova never had Front Disk Brakes, so what ever they are using is a retrofit.

 

Chevy used the name 'Nova' on a wide range of cars over a period of 30 years. All of the Nova's were rear-wheel-drive up through 1979. Disc brakes were an option on Nova's starting in 1968. The Nova SS optionally had a 396 or 427 c.i. engine (the front suspension must have been pretty beefy to support a Chevy big block).

I assume (maybe we can get Big Bob's to confirm this) that the Nova components they used are from the rear-wheel-drive, disc-brake era (1968-1979).

 

If I read the pricing from Bob's F-100 correctly, the $1800 is for the cross member only.

The only other bolt-on IFS that I have found is from Chassis Engineering. They don't have the hub-to-hub price listed on their website, but if I read their catalog correctly the hub-to-hub price would be $625 for the cross member plus $1350 for the rest of the kit, for a total of $1975 (you'll want to confirm this with CE).

 

I just called em. $2195.00 complete hub to hub for basic set up with motor mounts. More to get fancy. Joe

 

I went back and read the pricing information from Bob's F-100 again. It is difficult to decypher without someone to explain it, but if I understand it correctly the hub-to-hub price would be as little as $2195 (with used parts) to $2595 (with new parts).

I'm assuming that this includes the rack-and-pinion, although the price sheet doesn't specifically say that.

It's hard to judge just from a photograph, but Bob's-F100 cross member does appear to be more robust than the Mustang II bolt-on from CE (it had better be for $1795 vs. $695 for the MII).

 

It does include the rack, although I did not ask if it was new. I assumed [there I go again] it would all be new. I have used CE stuf many times and would chose their product if they have it. Quality stuff. Joe

 

Thanks for the heads up guys....i understand the table now from bob.
The CE stuff i didnt see a set-up for the 55 only through the 53(ithink it was through 53) is the chassis the same from the 53 to the 55? the template from bobs runs off the referance point of the bump stop. Does the CE run the same template (if not for 55 disregaurd this question) or do you have to find the center point?

You guys continue to give me the best info on the net. its nice to have a place to get vehicle specific info from builders themselves. Thanks again guys!!!

 

The 1948-52 Ford trucks have a track width (hub-to-hub) of 58-1/2", which is 2" wider than the stock Mustang II. The 1953-56 Ford F-100's have a track width of 60-1/2", which is 4" wider than the MII. Most of the aftermarket IFS' based on the MII have been widened for the applications that they support. I did not see the '53-'56 specifically mentioned in the CE catalog; you may want to give them a call and ask them.

Don't know how their template works. It shouldn't be that hard to mark your center point with a Sharpie before removing your old straight axle (that's what most of the weld-in kits have you do).

If you're like me though, you probably like the comfort of using a template that is based on some existing hole or other reference point.

 

Sorry, its not from CPP, its from JLP in Pennsylvania. I just checked the receipt.

 

bump stop hole is a valid reference for axle centerline
JML

 

This is somewhat of a forum mining job, but I have been considering this same thing for my 54. I still haven't found anyone who has used this unit. I read the same Custom Classic Trucks article (online) and got the same email back from Bob's - pictures and hard-to-understand pricelist.

Looks like the bolt in is going to cost about $500 more than the other weld in units from everybody else - considering everything. Well worth it as the bolts should hold up much better than my welds! The straight axle is riveted in - and from what I've seen with my other truck, very substantial rivets. I would like to know what the bolt diameter is and match it up in the rear end. I wonder if the rack and pinion might come non-power.

I would still love to hear from someone who has done this and has at least a season of driving on it. I read an article from years back about bolting an IFS into a 67 - 72 Chevy truck using only 4 grade 8 bolts. I haven't heard of a massive problem with that, but I don't ask chevy guys questions either.

 

Sorry

This is a center to center measurement on the hub or is this the face of the stud Flange on the rotor/drum?

Thanks

 

Maybe the mid-eighties Toyota/Chevy Nova? Scary.

 

An old post that I am reviving but this is more good info. I have been searching the crap out of IFS and found several good one but this thread right here helped me understand the process a lil more than I knew it 10 minutes ago.