Grinding noise
#31
Replacing IWE acuator and wheel hub assembly
This is not true, These are positive engagement hubs. once engaged, the only thing that spins in the IWE hub is the bearings, The hub ring positivlely engages the outer hub via the spring pressure in the IWE hub. You can cap these off and run normally in 2H, But you will suffer a 2-3 mpg loss because of the giant increase in rotating mass of the half-shafts, the front Diff and the front driveshaft. If you let them grind long enough, you will have to replace the wheel hub assembly and the IWE actuator. ~$210 for the the wheel hub assembly (each side) and another 80 for the IWE actuator( each side).
I actually have one bad IWE actuator, but it failed to the point that it is always engaged. The other side is OK. Verified the problem with a vaccuum pump / gauge. The Factory workshop manuals for these truck are very good. (as expected). Cool part is , according to the manual, only 9 steps to replace the IWE actuator, (after gettting the truck up on stands)
So I plugged the vaccuum line to the drivers side IWE acutuator so as to not have a vaccuum leak on the other side, It did grind for awhile, but operation was verified ok with the vaccuum gage. My problems started with a bad IWE solenoid, which I have replaced with the redesigned rain cover.
My MPG's are down 1.5 to 2, because I'm spinning the spider gears and two half shafts. I'm assumming that the opposite halfshaft is spinning backwords, instead of spinning the driveshaft.
4wd works fine, no clunks or weird noises. and it will engage at speed.
No steering problems either. in 2H, turns normally, no binding.
When I find time, I'll get the deed done, but for now, i'm confident i'm not doing anymore damage. heck, they're only free wheeling.
I actually have one bad IWE actuator, but it failed to the point that it is always engaged. The other side is OK. Verified the problem with a vaccuum pump / gauge. The Factory workshop manuals for these truck are very good. (as expected). Cool part is , according to the manual, only 9 steps to replace the IWE actuator, (after gettting the truck up on stands)
So I plugged the vaccuum line to the drivers side IWE acutuator so as to not have a vaccuum leak on the other side, It did grind for awhile, but operation was verified ok with the vaccuum gage. My problems started with a bad IWE solenoid, which I have replaced with the redesigned rain cover.
My MPG's are down 1.5 to 2, because I'm spinning the spider gears and two half shafts. I'm assumming that the opposite halfshaft is spinning backwords, instead of spinning the driveshaft.
4wd works fine, no clunks or weird noises. and it will engage at speed.
No steering problems either. in 2H, turns normally, no binding.
When I find time, I'll get the deed done, but for now, i'm confident i'm not doing anymore damage. heck, they're only free wheeling.
Thanks,
#33
#35
I'm glad this came back up. Mine kinda went away so I hadn't thought about it in some time. My truck is going to the dealer for a Transfer-case seal this week so Ill try and remember to hit them up about this since the wet weather is back and my truck is still under 60,000
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#36
Question, is the noise you are hearing similar to two pieces of metal being touched together while moving? Is it like a hiss? Almost like water being dropped in a hot skillet?
I had an issue yesterday while driving 75 mph on th interstate and it conitnued as I slowed and exited the interstate. As I turned right I heard a clunk and then it went away. I stopped put the truck in 4x4 Hi and drove about a block and then back to 2wHi. It did not do it again for the remainder of my 100 mile drive.
Is this the same IWE issue you have been discussing?
I had an issue yesterday while driving 75 mph on th interstate and it conitnued as I slowed and exited the interstate. As I turned right I heard a clunk and then it went away. I stopped put the truck in 4x4 Hi and drove about a block and then back to 2wHi. It did not do it again for the remainder of my 100 mile drive.
Is this the same IWE issue you have been discussing?
#37
Question, is the noise you are hearing similar to two pieces of metal being touched together while moving? Is it like a hiss? Almost like water being dropped in a hot skillet?
I had an issue yesterday while driving 75 mph on th interstate and it conitnued as I slowed and exited the interstate. As I turned right I heard a clunk and then it went away. I stopped put the truck in 4x4 Hi and drove about a block and then back to 2wHi. It did not do it again for the remainder of my 100 mile drive.
Is this the same IWE issue you have been discussing?
I had an issue yesterday while driving 75 mph on th interstate and it conitnued as I slowed and exited the interstate. As I turned right I heard a clunk and then it went away. I stopped put the truck in 4x4 Hi and drove about a block and then back to 2wHi. It did not do it again for the remainder of my 100 mile drive.
Is this the same IWE issue you have been discussing?
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#39
I left it alone. It doesnt seem to be staying locked and will lock and unlock if I flip the switch.
#40
I have a 2006 Screw, and I have been noticing a kinda whinning noise it goes up and down with the RPMs. I have been told that ford trucks are a little noisey but the whinning is getting annoying. I think it even does it when the truck is in park. I was told do not worry but I can't help it does anyone have the similair problem? Could the IWE have anything to do with it.
thanks
thanks
#41
IWE noise would be tied to road speed, not engine speed. Any noise from an IWE is produced by the gnashing of gear teeth, so I'm guessing you would not describe that as a whine if you were to hear it first hand. It's closer to "all hell breaking loose" when it tries to improperly engage at highway speeds.
#42
#43
Could be anything even as simple as Belts. I would look REALLY closely at them to be honest.
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