1974 Ford Cummins Crew cab
#1816
I'm trying to figure out my Ebrake situation too. I've got the Dodge D70 and am using the cables that came with it. Was planning on running the cable just under the frame rail, as I don't have room to run it beside the frame due to my camper tie down brackets and the drivers side cable isn't quite long enough to stretch over there.
I need to find something to connect the factory ford cable and the Dodge cables. I had another cable that I can use, but there's too much of a run of cable without support. As in you put a mount at the end of the factory ford cable and a support at the end of the dodge cables.........but that makes about 2 feet of just cable just hanging out there.......
Not sure exactly what I'm going to do yet.
I need to find something to connect the factory ford cable and the Dodge cables. I had another cable that I can use, but there's too much of a run of cable without support. As in you put a mount at the end of the factory ford cable and a support at the end of the dodge cables.........but that makes about 2 feet of just cable just hanging out there.......
Not sure exactly what I'm going to do yet.
#1817
Funny, I was just doing research on this today! Their silicone hoses and connectors are rated for coolant use. At the bottom of the page in the details of each part has the following:
Genuine 4-ply Silicone (5 silicone layers plus 4 reinforcement layers = 9 total layers!)
Installer can cut silicone parts down to fit with a razor
Heat tolerance: -40° to 392° Fahrenheit
Burst Pressure: 200 PSI
Working Pressure: 50 PSI
Wall Size: 4 mm - 5 mm
Compatible with antifreeze/coolant
I'm going to be using these silicone parts for both my intercooler piping and my radiator hoses. They also have 3" aluminum intercooler piping and all sorts of sizes for stainless steel tubing for the radiator hoses. Great site! and they're in Colorado Springs, which is just 100 miles south of me.
-Kyle
Genuine 4-ply Silicone (5 silicone layers plus 4 reinforcement layers = 9 total layers!)
Installer can cut silicone parts down to fit with a razor
Heat tolerance: -40° to 392° Fahrenheit
Burst Pressure: 200 PSI
Working Pressure: 50 PSI
Wall Size: 4 mm - 5 mm
Compatible with antifreeze/coolant
I'm going to be using these silicone parts for both my intercooler piping and my radiator hoses. They also have 3" aluminum intercooler piping and all sorts of sizes for stainless steel tubing for the radiator hoses. Great site! and they're in Colorado Springs, which is just 100 miles south of me.
-Kyle
#1818
If you get a chance I'd like to see the Dodge pedal unit as it sits in the truck.
I need to figure out controlling 2 Parking Brakes as I have the Mini-drums on the Axle and the large Tail-shaft unit on my F-450 sourced ZF5. Been debating between 1 "sandwiching" two pedal assemblies together. 2 running an inline Cable-splitter for the one pedal to control both setups or. 3 mounting dual Hand-brake levers on either side of my trans tunnel.
I need to figure out controlling 2 Parking Brakes as I have the Mini-drums on the Axle and the large Tail-shaft unit on my F-450 sourced ZF5. Been debating between 1 "sandwiching" two pedal assemblies together. 2 running an inline Cable-splitter for the one pedal to control both setups or. 3 mounting dual Hand-brake levers on either side of my trans tunnel.
I'm trying to figure out my Ebrake situation too. I've got the Dodge D70 and am using the cables that came with it. Was planning on running the cable just under the frame rail, as I don't have room to run it beside the frame due to my camper tie down brackets and the drivers side cable isn't quite long enough to stretch over there.
I need to find something to connect the factory ford cable and the Dodge cables. I had another cable that I can use, but there's too much of a run of cable without support. As in you put a mount at the end of the factory ford cable and a support at the end of the dodge cables.........but that makes about 2 feet of just cable just hanging out there.......
Not sure exactly what I'm going to do yet.
I need to find something to connect the factory ford cable and the Dodge cables. I had another cable that I can use, but there's too much of a run of cable without support. As in you put a mount at the end of the factory ford cable and a support at the end of the dodge cables.........but that makes about 2 feet of just cable just hanging out there.......
Not sure exactly what I'm going to do yet.
And now, a little bitty update.
Got my front AMP step support brackets painted & driver one temporarily in so I can start making the rear ones.
This stiffened up the step arms quite a bit.
Here's the beginnings of the rear one. Yes, I'm on a stainless kick right now. I figured I've got scrap around from a buddy who does a lot of the stainless metal work for LAX (LA international airport), so why not use it in spots that are under the truck I prone to getting covered in crap & rusting.
My buddy has 16 & 18 ga. so I'm making stuff out of that typically.
Funny the support brackets that came with the AMPs were 1/4". Seems like the typical "through thick material at it & it will be fine" mentality. A LOT thinner material will work with a decent design!
Also, it's awesome when the metal you are working with is so sharp that you don't feel it cut you, and you actually have no clue you are cut until there is blood all over the workpiece... Man I love my beverly shear, but dang it makes the work material deadly. Timie to hit the sander for a bit. Then the punch, then the drill press, then the brake. It'll be blingy when done, but the bling holes are there for strength.
#1819
#1822
#1826
Putting this here now since I somehow landed it the wrong thread last time I tried...
There are definitely some economical alternatives out there for dimple dies now-a-days. 15 or so years ago when I bought my 1st set there was only 1, maybe 2 custom race shops making them. Curt LeDuc was the only 1 I remember. I had a set of his for years til I found a deal on a "used" set of JMRs about 5-6 years ago. Both sets were very expensive, but will last as they are 4340 heat treated or stainless. For guys who don't fab every day & just use them from time to time on personal projects there are heat treated 1018 steel versions that cost quite a bit less.
On a progress note - there hasn't been much
I've been gone & busy. I did do a little welding & dimpling last night. Not loving it takes about 5 minutes of moving stuff to get to my press & get parts in it, but hey, that's what it takes to fit all the tools in here & it's better than it not fitting & having to sell it I guess!
There are definitely some economical alternatives out there for dimple dies now-a-days. 15 or so years ago when I bought my 1st set there was only 1, maybe 2 custom race shops making them. Curt LeDuc was the only 1 I remember. I had a set of his for years til I found a deal on a "used" set of JMRs about 5-6 years ago. Both sets were very expensive, but will last as they are 4340 heat treated or stainless. For guys who don't fab every day & just use them from time to time on personal projects there are heat treated 1018 steel versions that cost quite a bit less.
On a progress note - there hasn't been much
I've been gone & busy. I did do a little welding & dimpling last night. Not loving it takes about 5 minutes of moving stuff to get to my press & get parts in it, but hey, that's what it takes to fit all the tools in here & it's better than it not fitting & having to sell it I guess!
#1828
Shipping all that might cost a pretty penny!
I miss my shop for sure, but not enough to pay what I was monthly to have one again!
I'll deal with moving stuff around here I guess. Oh and speaking of moving - I've got to get my butt going. Haven't done much but sanded & painted the holes from where I drilled for that bracket. Gotta get this e-brake thing buttoned up & move on!
I miss my shop for sure, but not enough to pay what I was monthly to have one again!
I'll deal with moving stuff around here I guess. Oh and speaking of moving - I've got to get my butt going. Haven't done much but sanded & painted the holes from where I drilled for that bracket. Gotta get this e-brake thing buttoned up & move on!
#1830