I have just upgraded to a 1997 f-150 xlt 4x4 offroad.
I love the truck i am just having a little problem with the power mirrors.
My cousin who sold it to me for 1500 dollars which was a steal was the only one that ever drove it. so now when i go to adjust the mirrors they will not move. Is that any thing that i can try to get them unfrozen? I am figuring that it is the fact that he was the only one that drove it and they were never moved once he set them many years ago. If there is not a way to unfreeze them i have seen that there is many black after market ones out there that are affordable . my truck is blue so there are blue caps on the mirrors currently on it. Does anyone know if i cant fix existing mirrors and go and buy the aftermarket ones will the existing caps that i have fit those mirrors and how do i do that ? Thank you for any and all help
Without knowing when each individual mirror stopped working you'll have to check the switch for power output. If there's power where the diagrams show it should be then the mirror motors are bad. Replace mirror. BTW, prior to testing, when you remove the switch spray it good with something like WD40, work it back & forth and blow it out good.
These photos are probably clearer in my gallery under technical stuff. If you can't read it there PM me your email addy and I'll send it to you. The plug diagram should do it though.
Mine didn't work either when I got my truck. I swiped one from our Taurus parts car and it worked just didn't fit the door panel tightly. Got one at the salvage yard and after cleaning and lubeing it up it works fine. Neither work my right mirror ......... it's dead. But I have changed several mirror switches in F150's.
do you mind sending me the photo of the diagram? I have problem with Right L/R motor - confirmed motor is good - also confirmed switch is good - it works on occasional basis. I looked at the connector and appear to be no loose cable. Thanks
I need the photos on post #3. the wiring diagram and the switch connector diagram. when i first unplug & plug it back in, it works but then after i put the door panel back, it stopped working again. I thought it could be a loose cable but it doesnt appear to look that way. hope i can isolate the problem once i understand the diagram and the connection and such.
What year is your truck?Your profile says 2013 so I'll guess that's a typo and it's a 2003.......
Switch — Exterior Rear View Mirror Control
Measure the resistance between the following terminals while pressing the switch in the requested directions:
Direction Driver Mirror Passenger Mirror
Up= 3 and 8, 1 and 6, 2 and 8, 1 and 6
Down= 3 and 8, 1 and 3, 8 and 6, 1 and 2
Left= 8 and 4, 1 and 6, 5 and 8, 1 and 6
Right= 8 and 6, 1 and 4, 8 and 6, 5 and 1
If the resistance is less than 5 ohms in each direction, return to the originating pinpoint test; otherwise, install a new switch. http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...riorWiring.jpg
OK New to the site so I am not sure I am posting this right. I am impressed with all the knowledge and willingness to help. Already fixed a GPR issue with info from this site. I have read all the posts I can find for Power mirror problems but they don't quite address my problem. My new to me 2000 F 350 power mirrors on both sides react the same way. Up and Right will move the mirrors up and Down and Left will move the mirrors left. So can't get the switch to move mirrors Down or Right. Bought a new switch on ebay ($20 with shipping) but it does the same thing as the original switch. Any ideas?
90% of the time in my experience it has been a faulty switch. Nice location for it when the window is slightly cracked while its raining the water seems to poor right on the power mirror switch like it has a bullseye painted on it. On my truck if i went to move the mirror in it would go down more than in. Replaced the switch and everything works fine now. Can't remember but I think the switch was under 30$
I had that exact problem on 2001 F150 4x4. I have a haynes manual so that helped me with the schematics and wiring.
What i did first was to check to see if the switch was getting any current and voltage at all. I did that and it registered 12.3 to 12.1 volts whish was good. An indication that volts were present at the switch.
The next step was to bypass the switch and manually cross the wires to activate the motor to see if it would come alive. It sure did come alive. So then i knew then it was a switch issue.
What i did was i took apart the switch cleaned out the contacts and it worked again like new. Hope this works for you sir....