I was Confused...
#16
No darkness lives in my soul, whatsoever. I might have to go with headers, solely because I'm having difficulties finding a set of stock exhaust manifolds, that I trust to hold together - have two sets now, one an ear has been repaired, the other broke when I was mounting it. But if I find a decent set I can trust, I'll go stock. I also have a "knuckle-buster" steering ball, that was probably on the truck since new. Authentic period correct "options" aren't dark, at least to me. Other than that, stock brakes, stock motor, stock tranny, stock rims, 6-volt genny system, etc, etc.
There are SOME of us, that would prefer to own/drive plumb-stock, than not. Even to the point, that when I go to car shows, I look for the stock cars and trucks, before I even look at the cars and trucks that have been beaten into shape with $100 bills. My dream car is a 1957 Ford Skyliner retractable, with all the options. Next time I have $60-100K laying around, I might just get one...
Not that "dark" is wrong, far from it. Just not for me. I'm not, though, very enthused by the manufactured "rat-rod" look. Purposefully chopping/cutting/grinding up something just to make it look like an authentic early rod detracts from the TRUE original rat-rods of long ago...now, find a rat rod from 1950-60's, and restore it "original" like it looked back then, that's different.
Just my $.03 worth...
R
#17
Foul!! Blanket statement!!
No darkness lives in my soul, whatsoever. I might have to go with headers, solely because I'm having difficulties finding a set of stock exhaust manifolds, that I trust to hold together - have two sets now, one an ear has been repaired, the other broke when I was mounting it. But if I find a decent set I can trust, I'll go stock. I also have a "knuckle-buster" steering ball, that was probably on the truck since new. Authentic period correct "options" aren't dark, at least to me. Other than that, stock brakes, stock motor, stock tranny, stock rims, 6-volt genny system, etc, etc.
There are SOME of us, that would prefer to own/drive plumb-stock, than not. Even to the point, that when I go to car shows, I look for the stock cars and trucks, before I even look at the cars and trucks that have been beaten into shape with $100 bills. My dream car is a 1957 Ford Skyliner retractable, with all the options. Next time I have $60-100K laying around, I might just get one...
Not that "dark" is wrong, far from it. Just not for me. I'm not, though, very enthused by the manufactured "rat-rod" look. Purposefully chopping/cutting/grinding up something just to make it look like an authentic early rod detracts from the TRUE original rat-rods of long ago...now, find a rat rod from 1950-60's, and restore it "original" like it looked back then, that's different.
Just my $.03 worth...
R
No darkness lives in my soul, whatsoever. I might have to go with headers, solely because I'm having difficulties finding a set of stock exhaust manifolds, that I trust to hold together - have two sets now, one an ear has been repaired, the other broke when I was mounting it. But if I find a decent set I can trust, I'll go stock. I also have a "knuckle-buster" steering ball, that was probably on the truck since new. Authentic period correct "options" aren't dark, at least to me. Other than that, stock brakes, stock motor, stock tranny, stock rims, 6-volt genny system, etc, etc.
There are SOME of us, that would prefer to own/drive plumb-stock, than not. Even to the point, that when I go to car shows, I look for the stock cars and trucks, before I even look at the cars and trucks that have been beaten into shape with $100 bills. My dream car is a 1957 Ford Skyliner retractable, with all the options. Next time I have $60-100K laying around, I might just get one...
Not that "dark" is wrong, far from it. Just not for me. I'm not, though, very enthused by the manufactured "rat-rod" look. Purposefully chopping/cutting/grinding up something just to make it look like an authentic early rod detracts from the TRUE original rat-rods of long ago...now, find a rat rod from 1950-60's, and restore it "original" like it looked back then, that's different.
Just my $.03 worth...
R
Whatever gets you through the night. Its OK Roger, you don't have to justify the headers to us.....
LOL...I'm just poking at you with a stick, I couldn't resist., that's the kind of smart-alek I am.
I agree with your assessment of the whole rat rod (I sure hate that terminology) thing.
Bobby
#18
#19
#21
#22
Join Date: Jul 1997
Location: Beautiful Hueytown Alabam
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first I'm late in offering my welcome to you both and if you're half as cool, witty, intelligent, insightful, knowledgable, helpful, good looking and superior as most of us, you'll fit in just fine.
The Dark side thing started years ago and has been flogged to death here but still comes back for more... basically there are two classifications...
Stock and Dark. Stock is pure bright white light (just like Henry built em... Dark starts at 'eggshell' or 'off white' (Julie...a female reference you'll surely understand) and goes all the way to 'black hole'. There are an infinite number of shades as there are an infinite number of mods one can make to their truck... So, don't fret it...everyone fits somewhere.. except Penn Dick and he is our official square peg.
As for the code... it's like the old guys that sit on the same park bench every day for years and they've told the same jokes for all those years... they finally numbered them and just say the number to save time. (there's more to that joke if you want to know)
Lots of what you see mentioned here is a reference to something someone said back in 2001 about their running boards but we all know/remember what the context was. The only way to understand it all is to go back and memorize every thread/post... then you'll be up to speed and will be the official historian of FTE. The post has been vacant since George went missing. (another code for you) although Penn Dick tries to fill his shoes.
Please feel free to just join in anywhere you feel comfortable and start your own 'codes'. Knowledge of the thread subject is never a requirement and sometimes hi-jacking is perferrable to the original content.
Main thing to do is join in... have fun and create some diversion if possible..
later
John :-)
#23
Here's some interesting words on various stages of "restoration"...seems pretty accurate to me...
Mine should be a "heavy restoration" by these standards. Most are "light to medium restorations", but with more modern engines, brakes, suspensions, etc. These are what's usually referred to here as "darkside". Personally, I think it's very important, if you are going to put together a "driver" - which, to me, is a main means of transportation. Nothing like safety and dependability!!! Mine will be more a Sunday Driver, to special events, parades, outings, etc. I don't drive over the speed limit, ever. And I don't mind doing 45 in my truck, on the way to above mentioned events. BUT, if I were going to be driving my extensively, I would modernize it in a heartbeat. In fact, at first I was looking for a 302/351 donor truck/car. And who knows, when I'm done, I might look for an F1, to "modernize". If I live so long...
R
One of the choices you face when doing a "fix-up" or restoration is deciding what restorative methods to employ. Before dealing with our current topic, it’s worthwhile to consider what "restoration" means to you. Your definition may be different than mine. Purists will certainly differ with me on the legitimacy of replacing anything with non-original parts. Let’s consider some levels of restoration:
Light to Medium Restoration
1. Repair & Repaint: Basic mechanical work is done to put the original equipment components in safe working order. The vehicle receives minor body work and is refinished. The vast majority of “fix-ups” fall into this category.
2. Repair, Replacement & Refinishing: Mechanical repairs as above, but some components are replaced with adaptable modern units, including engines, drive train parts, brakes, etc. Body repairs may be performed with a greater level of detail and expertise. These modifications to original equipment will reclassify the car as a custom in some people’s minds.
Heavy Restoration
3. A variation on #2, except the project takes much longer. The vehicle is partially disassembled to remove rust and corrosion from key body parts. Drive train components, suspension and other underbody parts are cleaned, refurbished or replaced with rebuilt or aftermarket-”new” parts. Body restoration may include a close color match of original paint schemes. Some trim items may be replaced with original or aftermarket replicas. Some cars in this category are often garaged and exempted from everyday use (especially if it looks like rain).
Like New:
4. Just what those words mean. Every attempt is made to restore the vehicle to showroom glory, right down to window stickers, owners manuals and the “right” taillight bulbs. New-fangled repair materials (like body filler!) are not allowed by these most obsessive enthusiasts. Hair splitting abounds in their discussions (and arguments). Fiberglass body panels (except on desirable Corvettes) are scorned by these devotees.
Museum Quality
5. This category applies to almost no one. These vehicles are museum pieces-literally. They are restored to their condition as of a certain date in history (interpretive period) according to a qualified curator. Like I say, this applies to very few cars, but they are out there.
Light to Medium Restoration
1. Repair & Repaint: Basic mechanical work is done to put the original equipment components in safe working order. The vehicle receives minor body work and is refinished. The vast majority of “fix-ups” fall into this category.
2. Repair, Replacement & Refinishing: Mechanical repairs as above, but some components are replaced with adaptable modern units, including engines, drive train parts, brakes, etc. Body repairs may be performed with a greater level of detail and expertise. These modifications to original equipment will reclassify the car as a custom in some people’s minds.
Heavy Restoration
3. A variation on #2, except the project takes much longer. The vehicle is partially disassembled to remove rust and corrosion from key body parts. Drive train components, suspension and other underbody parts are cleaned, refurbished or replaced with rebuilt or aftermarket-”new” parts. Body restoration may include a close color match of original paint schemes. Some trim items may be replaced with original or aftermarket replicas. Some cars in this category are often garaged and exempted from everyday use (especially if it looks like rain).
Like New:
4. Just what those words mean. Every attempt is made to restore the vehicle to showroom glory, right down to window stickers, owners manuals and the “right” taillight bulbs. New-fangled repair materials (like body filler!) are not allowed by these most obsessive enthusiasts. Hair splitting abounds in their discussions (and arguments). Fiberglass body panels (except on desirable Corvettes) are scorned by these devotees.
Museum Quality
5. This category applies to almost no one. These vehicles are museum pieces-literally. They are restored to their condition as of a certain date in history (interpretive period) according to a qualified curator. Like I say, this applies to very few cars, but they are out there.
R
#24
#25
#26
r
#28
OK, now I have it...
I was confused in the beginning but now I have been shown the way by powers that be. I have determined that I am totally Darkside like a black hole at midnight. I'm so dark I am on the dark sidr of the moon. Maybe I'll change my username to Pink Floyyd.
Thanks for the guidance guys. I think I'll go outside and try to figure out how to stick a CAT 10.4 L V8 into a 53 F-100. I actually know where there is a good one for less than a grand.
Later Guys...
Thanks for the guidance guys. I think I'll go outside and try to figure out how to stick a CAT 10.4 L V8 into a 53 F-100. I actually know where there is a good one for less than a grand.
Later Guys...
#30
Ok it was clear now I'm confused again. Are you guys trying to tell me there are "shades of Dark Side" based on the amount of unstockedness one modifies too.
Do we have: "The Dim Side:" if you only do headers, or " The Dusk Side " for only a 9" rear? Maybe "25 Watt Side" for non stock paint.
You guys are funny.
Juls!
Do we have: "The Dim Side:" if you only do headers, or " The Dusk Side " for only a 9" rear? Maybe "25 Watt Side" for non stock paint.
You guys are funny.
Juls!