4.6L MOD motor swap has begun
#1
4.6L MOD motor swap has begun
Now that the weather is starting to cooperate I
started my 4.6L MOD motor install for my 1965 F-100. I
am using my 73 F-100 parts truck as a mock up that way I can keep
driving my 65. Once everything is complete I will swap it over to my 65.
So far so good, the AODE transmission bolts right up
to the factory cross member, and it is still mounted
to the same set of holes as the C-6 was that use to be
there. It bolts right up, but is a tight fit.
Right now the engine is sitting on a 2x4 and a set of
wedges to make fine tune adjustments. I pretty much
have the engine located in the frame where I want it,
now for the fun part of making motor mounts. So far it
does not look like it will be that hard to do. However
the engine is a pretty tight fit, just enough
clearance to clear the large Ford power steering
gearbox. There is plenty of clearance between the
valve cover and firewall; it will make access to the
bell housing bolts very easy. The piece of one inch
square tubing is being used as a referance to get the
engine positioned correctly in the frame.
So far it looks like the engine will fit nicely in the
pickup and once all the accessories are bolted on the
engine and the plastic duct work for the air intake,
it will fill the engine bay up nicely. I will keep
posting info as the project progress.
There are other photos in my gallery as I will only post a few on here.
Jeff
started my 4.6L MOD motor install for my 1965 F-100. I
am using my 73 F-100 parts truck as a mock up that way I can keep
driving my 65. Once everything is complete I will swap it over to my 65.
So far so good, the AODE transmission bolts right up
to the factory cross member, and it is still mounted
to the same set of holes as the C-6 was that use to be
there. It bolts right up, but is a tight fit.
Right now the engine is sitting on a 2x4 and a set of
wedges to make fine tune adjustments. I pretty much
have the engine located in the frame where I want it,
now for the fun part of making motor mounts. So far it
does not look like it will be that hard to do. However
the engine is a pretty tight fit, just enough
clearance to clear the large Ford power steering
gearbox. There is plenty of clearance between the
valve cover and firewall; it will make access to the
bell housing bolts very easy. The piece of one inch
square tubing is being used as a referance to get the
engine positioned correctly in the frame.
So far it looks like the engine will fit nicely in the
pickup and once all the accessories are bolted on the
engine and the plastic duct work for the air intake,
it will fill the engine bay up nicely. I will keep
posting info as the project progress.
There are other photos in my gallery as I will only post a few on here.
Jeff
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I picked up a set of Mustang motor mounts and just need to make the perches, which looks like it will be pretty easy.
I do plan to clean up the engine before I install it in my slick. I think a good coat of Ford light blue with the black valve covers will make the engine look real sharp. As for the rebuild.......I am not sure. I took the valve covers and oil pan off and everything looks like there is more life left. On one hand I want to install PI heads and as long as you have the heads off you might as well go a little further down, but right now I see no sign that the engine needs a rebuild. However..... The engine is out and would be easier to do now before I install it. We will wait and see.
As for the fuel supply...... I have not thought that far a head. I think I am going to run with an external pump but I will address that when the time comes. My only concern with my current fuel tank in cab is I might get sick and tired of listening to the fuel being returned to the fuel tank. There are lots of little things that are going to come up as the project moves forward but I look forward to the challenge of making it all come together.
Jeff
#7
On to the left side..... no problems for the power steering pump to clear, only problem is the engine oil filter will not clear the cross member. I had a 98 F-150 with a 5.4 and the oil filter was actually mounted up and under the front bumper, so now I will be off to the junkyard or local Ford dealer to purchase that filter relocation kit. That will be great as the oil filter will be away from the cross member and the rear sump oil pan of the MOD motor will dump oil straight to the ground, no more dumping oil on the cross member and waiting a week for it all to drip out of there!!! I really look forward to that.
I started in on the right had side engine perch and got most of the metal pieces cut, now it is time to weld and make final adjustments to it. The left had side will be a little more challenging as I will have to work around the power steering gear box, so I started on the right hand side first.
I will keep adding info as the project progress!
Jeff
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#8
Well once again there has been some great weather for working outside and I have been able to make good progress on my engine swap.
The engine perches have been made, using 1 inch square tubing (1/8) inch wall, and 2 inch wide flat iron (1/4) inch thick. I used existing holes on the frame and cross member, using a combination of the holes for the factory "FE" and 240/300 six perches. Making the passenger side was hard for clearance reasons but very easy to make the perch, the driver side was a little more challenging the way the engine is offset and getting around the steering gear box. Once I remove the engine to install in my 65 I will clean the perches up and paint them, as for now I do not feel like lifting the engine to do it, so for now they will remain as raw metal.
With the engine sitting by itself I installed the inner fenders and core support so get an idea for over all fit. None of those are bolted down, just bolts through the holes to keep it from falling over. Since I will have to remove all that again, no need to get crazy with the bolts.
Now for the fun part of wiring. The engine looked pretty good and simple by itself, now that I threw the engine harness on, things are starting to look like the mess of modern day pickups. I also have the rest of my donor car harness and parts of it will be needed to run the engine. I have a factory wiring book for my donor car and I have started going through page by page and circuit by circuit to find out what I need to keep and what I can remove. That is proving to be a very time consuming process. I do plan to replace my entire factory 65 harness and use what I can from my donor harness, but things like ABS, power mirrors, power windows, ETC..... No need to take up space. For now I am just laying the wire out in the general area that it needs to go, but when I install the engine in my 65 I will make the install of the wiring look a whole lot better. I was happy to find out as I started into the wiring yesterday that my engine was a OBDII, it was borderline with the year of the engine that it could have gone either way.
As always, there are more photos in my gallery and I will continue to post as I progress with the project.
Jeff
The engine perches have been made, using 1 inch square tubing (1/8) inch wall, and 2 inch wide flat iron (1/4) inch thick. I used existing holes on the frame and cross member, using a combination of the holes for the factory "FE" and 240/300 six perches. Making the passenger side was hard for clearance reasons but very easy to make the perch, the driver side was a little more challenging the way the engine is offset and getting around the steering gear box. Once I remove the engine to install in my 65 I will clean the perches up and paint them, as for now I do not feel like lifting the engine to do it, so for now they will remain as raw metal.
With the engine sitting by itself I installed the inner fenders and core support so get an idea for over all fit. None of those are bolted down, just bolts through the holes to keep it from falling over. Since I will have to remove all that again, no need to get crazy with the bolts.
Now for the fun part of wiring. The engine looked pretty good and simple by itself, now that I threw the engine harness on, things are starting to look like the mess of modern day pickups. I also have the rest of my donor car harness and parts of it will be needed to run the engine. I have a factory wiring book for my donor car and I have started going through page by page and circuit by circuit to find out what I need to keep and what I can remove. That is proving to be a very time consuming process. I do plan to replace my entire factory 65 harness and use what I can from my donor harness, but things like ABS, power mirrors, power windows, ETC..... No need to take up space. For now I am just laying the wire out in the general area that it needs to go, but when I install the engine in my 65 I will make the install of the wiring look a whole lot better. I was happy to find out as I started into the wiring yesterday that my engine was a OBDII, it was borderline with the year of the engine that it could have gone either way.
As always, there are more photos in my gallery and I will continue to post as I progress with the project.
Jeff
#9
Well I gave my 4.6L a Dupont overhaul this weekend and I must say it turned out pretty good. I was trying to go for the Retro look as the engines use to look like back in the late 60's. It should look really good once it is installed in my 65. I am now ready to remove the 360 and C-6 from my 65 and drop this in. I ordered all the fuel fittings, lines, pump and filter housing from Jegs so now I will be left with getting the wiring sorted out and I will be ready to rock and roll.
I just wish they made valve covers for the MOD motors that said Power by Ford, that would complete the retro look.
It is also to bad that all the wiring and plastic covers will hide most of the engine, but at least underneath it will look good.
Jeff
I just wish they made valve covers for the MOD motors that said Power by Ford, that would complete the retro look.
It is also to bad that all the wiring and plastic covers will hide most of the engine, but at least underneath it will look good.
Jeff
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