How to change '03 and up window regulator
#46
This is dead on.. I'm in the process of replacing my driver side (had to come in to warm up). I did the passenger side in the summer. Duct tape does not hold when it is above 90 degs. the glue will melt and give. First time I taped with duct over the window frame. I was able to use a raor to scrape the glue off the window but the paint still has a residue. This time I placed a rag over the frame and just taped the glass.
#47
This is dead on.. I'm in the process of replacing my driver side (had to come in to warm up). I did the passenger side in the summer. Duct tape does not hold when it is above 90 degs. the glue will melt and give. First time I taped with duct over the window frame. I was able to use a raor to scrape the glue off the window but the paint still has a residue. This time I placed a rag over the frame and just taped the glass.
try some WDC-40 or Goo Gone to get the adhesive off of your paint.
#48
I just did this exact job today on my 2003 navigator, the old regulator cables had frayed and jammed the mechanism. I however still have another problem that I was also getting when i was having the original problems. When the window goes up it gets to the top and then automatically goes down 6 inches (the safety roll back function for jams). No matter what i adjust it does the same. The window looks fine, the glass is attached fine, the mechanism is bolted down right and its super smooth, there doesn't seem to be any rubbing it just hits the top and rolls down automatically. The only way yo get around it is hitting it up within two seconds of the roll down and then it bypasses the safety feature. So its a bit of a pain.
Does anyone know if this safety feature is part of the motor, a separate sensor, or a reprogramming i need to see the dealer about? thanks for your help in advance.
Does anyone know if this safety feature is part of the motor, a separate sensor, or a reprogramming i need to see the dealer about? thanks for your help in advance.
#49
Friday, April 23, 2012
I just followed these instructions to replace the driver side window regulator on my '03 Expedition. It had been acting a little flaky for a couple of weeks. Tuesday it died altogether. I removed the door panel...following these instructions...and discovered that the cable had frayed and broken. It was a rat's nest. I ordered the part (after-market) from Auto Zone for $134 and paid an extra $43 for expedited shipping. It arrived today and now it is done.
These instructions probably saved me at least a couple of hundred bucks.
I'm on the wrong side of 50 and keep telling myself that I can afford to pay someone to do this kind of stuff, but I just can't bring myself to do it. My father was the same way. If I can figure out how to do it myself, then I'll do it!
I have to admit, however, that since I'm an information technology professional I have gotten to the point where I hate getting grease under my finger nails. So I've given up on things like changing my oil and other dirty, nasty jobs. <grin>
Jim from Georgia
I just followed these instructions to replace the driver side window regulator on my '03 Expedition. It had been acting a little flaky for a couple of weeks. Tuesday it died altogether. I removed the door panel...following these instructions...and discovered that the cable had frayed and broken. It was a rat's nest. I ordered the part (after-market) from Auto Zone for $134 and paid an extra $43 for expedited shipping. It arrived today and now it is done.
These instructions probably saved me at least a couple of hundred bucks.
I'm on the wrong side of 50 and keep telling myself that I can afford to pay someone to do this kind of stuff, but I just can't bring myself to do it. My father was the same way. If I can figure out how to do it myself, then I'll do it!
I have to admit, however, that since I'm an information technology professional I have gotten to the point where I hate getting grease under my finger nails. So I've given up on things like changing my oil and other dirty, nasty jobs. <grin>
Jim from Georgia
#50
Friday, April 23, 2012
I'm on the wrong side of 50 and keep telling myself that I can afford to pay someone to do this kind of stuff, but I just can't bring myself to do it. My father was the same way. If I can figure out how to do it myself, then I'll do it!
I have to admit, however, that since I'm an information technology professional I have gotten to the point where I hate getting grease under my finger nails. So I've given up on things like changing my oil and other dirty, nasty jobs. <GRIN>
Jim from Georgia
I'm on the wrong side of 50 and keep telling myself that I can afford to pay someone to do this kind of stuff, but I just can't bring myself to do it. My father was the same way. If I can figure out how to do it myself, then I'll do it!
I have to admit, however, that since I'm an information technology professional I have gotten to the point where I hate getting grease under my finger nails. So I've given up on things like changing my oil and other dirty, nasty jobs. <GRIN>
Jim from Georgia
I'm on the wrong side of 60 and have a very hard time letting someone under my hood. I still change my own oil but use cheap rubber gloves to keep my hands from getting stained. Box of 100 from HF.
#51
Dealer rip offs
$450 isn't a bad price considering it was from a Ford dealership. Changing a regulator is a lot of hard work. I know I did a lot of cussing because you have to put your hands and arms in a lot of postions they're not meant to be in for very long, not to mention all the very sharp metal edges you can cut yourself on. If you can change one of these regulator or motors WITHOUT cutting your hands and arms to shreads you're a better man than I. I will give one tip. I used a die grinder with a cutoff wheel to get rid of the rivets. I know you're supposed to be able to snap off the ends of the rivet pins with a punch and then drill the rivets out, but by the time I got out a drill, drill bit, hammer and punch I already had all the rivet done with the die grinder using shop air.
#52
hey guys im new to this site, i just replaced the passenger side on my 03 expedition and everything went smooth till i put the door panel back on, the inside handle is hitting the trim ring when you open the door, theres not to much adjustment on that part of the regulator as there is a nipple that sits in a hole in the door, this happen to anyone, any suggestions?
#54
I know I am bumping a very old thread, but I have a question on this. It looks like the spline drive from the motor to the regulator is very similar to a torx. Does anyone know if say a T70 or T80 socket would fit into the regulator and allow one to manually operate the regulator module to determine if it is binding?
#55
I just did this job for the 2nd (but 3rd regulator, see below) time on our '03. The OE regulator exploded into a giant spaghetti monster of wire and cables this past January. I ordered a new OE one from Amazon and got it all installed and adjusted, but broke the catch that the door handle fits into. I was pissed, to say the least. Since I needed this to work like NOW, I bought the only Dorman one in the area from O'Reilly's and installed it with only one issue. Like above, the door handle would catch on the trim.
A few weeks ago, during a very rare freeze here in central Arizona, my wife attempted to roll down the frost covered window. The brackets came off the glass, twisting in the process and breaking the guides on the regulator itself. The window stayed up while again, there was a giant mess of spaghetti in the door. An hour later when the temp warmed up, the glass fell into the door, thankfully not even chipping it. She said a coworker actually saw and heard it fall.
I decided to take a chance and ordered another OE one from Amazon and replaced it last weekend. This time I was a pro. A couple tips...
When removing the door panel, pull out on the sail panel a little bit before lifting the whole thing up and off the door. There's a piece of plastic that slides into a hole near the top corner.
There is a nub in the top of the regulator that fits into a hole on the door frame. I'm thinking this MAY be the cause of the door handle hitting the trim. Make sure the nub fits in the hole.
Leave everything loose and roll the window up and down a couple times, then tighten it all up.
If the brackets are at all loose on the glass, remove, clean, replace with silicone to adhere them.
Since it was in the mid-50's and shady when I did this, I used a heatgun to warm the catch that the top of the door handle snaps into, to avoid snapping it off like the first time. I also warmed the plastic/rubber shield to reactivate the glue when putting it back on the door frame.
I should've bought some new speakers too, but I can have the door panel off in about 3 minutes, now that I've had lots of practice.
A few weeks ago, during a very rare freeze here in central Arizona, my wife attempted to roll down the frost covered window. The brackets came off the glass, twisting in the process and breaking the guides on the regulator itself. The window stayed up while again, there was a giant mess of spaghetti in the door. An hour later when the temp warmed up, the glass fell into the door, thankfully not even chipping it. She said a coworker actually saw and heard it fall.
I decided to take a chance and ordered another OE one from Amazon and replaced it last weekend. This time I was a pro. A couple tips...
When removing the door panel, pull out on the sail panel a little bit before lifting the whole thing up and off the door. There's a piece of plastic that slides into a hole near the top corner.
There is a nub in the top of the regulator that fits into a hole on the door frame. I'm thinking this MAY be the cause of the door handle hitting the trim. Make sure the nub fits in the hole.
Leave everything loose and roll the window up and down a couple times, then tighten it all up.
If the brackets are at all loose on the glass, remove, clean, replace with silicone to adhere them.
Since it was in the mid-50's and shady when I did this, I used a heatgun to warm the catch that the top of the door handle snaps into, to avoid snapping it off like the first time. I also warmed the plastic/rubber shield to reactivate the glue when putting it back on the door frame.
I should've bought some new speakers too, but I can have the door panel off in about 3 minutes, now that I've had lots of practice.
#56
#58
#59
Yardbird, I just wanted to say thank you for the nice write up on replacing the left front window regulator on the 2003 Expedition. Like you, i finally got around to doing that too. It only took me 4 years of putting up with to get me to the pont where i just needed to get it done. I followed your write up to the letter and it only took about 45 minutes for the whole job. These forums have helped me alot over the years of Expedition ownership. I am sure that they will continue to be helpful in the future as well.
I am also a forum member of the Hummer Network forums as well since I drive one of those as well. Because of these 2 great forums, I nhave been able to keep both trucks running very well and have saved a bunch of money in the process. Thanks so much guys.
I am also a forum member of the Hummer Network forums as well since I drive one of those as well. Because of these 2 great forums, I nhave been able to keep both trucks running very well and have saved a bunch of money in the process. Thanks so much guys.
#60