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Timing Chain Tensioner

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Old 08-27-2019, 08:57 AM
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Timing Chain Tensioner

Hello all,

Want to replace my 2 Timing Chain Tensioners, this would be my first time changing these.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 06 Explorer EB 4.0L, has 182.000. on the clock.
Engine is running great and no chain rattle at all, the tensioners that are in now are the original.
 
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Old 08-27-2019, 11:16 AM
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The tensioners aren't the problem, its the plastic chain guides that break. There are 4 guides, 3 in the front and one in the back. The engine has to come out to get to the one in the back. The timing cover, oil pan, and left valve cover has to come off to get to the 3 in the front. My advice, if it ain't broke, dont fix it.
 
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Old 08-27-2019, 10:11 PM
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If it's not making noise....

How much longer are you planning on running it?

There are threads here about noisy motors, threads about failed chains, threads about 200k+ with no work, threads about completely fubar'd chain/tensioner/guide replacement.

AFAIK in '06 you had "upgraded" guides. Tensioner and chain life varies, but it it's not a can of marbles on start up, leaving it alone is a solid choice.

YMMV
 
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Old 08-28-2019, 08:32 AM
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Sorry, but I need to ask why, as far as I know ford recommends replacing them at 75,000.
This explorer 4.0 has been incredibly reliable and I will be keeping it.
 
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Old 08-28-2019, 03:20 PM
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Where are you finding that 75000 number for chains? Some belts might be on that schedule, but a decent timing chain (which Ford thought they were installing) should be good for 100 to 200k. (Mow and blow guy replaced his Toyota chain at 400k, but I digress)

That said, if you feel it's worth the effort to pull the engine to swap them out, go ahead.

Or, you could find a 4.0 from as late a model as you can, have it either confirmed as "good" or install new tensioners, guides etc, fog it, put it under a tarp in the garage and wait for yours to blow. Swap over your intake and front engine drives if needed, and pop it in.

Serving suggestion.....
 
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Old 08-30-2019, 12:42 PM
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Old 08-30-2019, 12:45 PM
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Timing chain tensioners, 1 on passenger side rear and one on driver side front. Rear tensioner is removed through the passenger side wheel well. As it has been suggested above you do not need to replace the engine, or pull engine out, or replace the cassettes, chains, guides, or anything else including the washer fluid. Just pull old tensioners out and pump up new ones with oil and reinstall.


With 183,000 now it, and the original ones still in I'm doing this as a prevented maintenance issue, the internal springs in these parts do not last forever. pic attached.



​​​​​​​
 
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Old 08-30-2019, 02:21 PM
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If you can do it without engine removal then of course do it. The "word" here and other forums has "always" been, afaik, iirc, that the rear passenger side work required engine or trans removal.

Please report your results as the fix you describe will be of interest to many.

Thanks!
 
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Old 08-30-2019, 08:15 PM
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But the tensioners don't fail, the guides do. Replacing the tensioner isn't going to keep the guide from breaking.
 
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Old 12-12-2019, 09:10 AM
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I have 256k on my 01 ranger. I replaced both tensioners becuase i herd chain rattle on start up. That fixed my issue. Though i still have timing chain rattle around the 1500-2000k range while accelerating. Im gunna wait for it to blow, and i would suggest you do the same lol unless you got an extra vehicle, engine lift and alot of free time. I have access to all data and michelle, both say it is over a 20 hr job to replace all of the timing components.
 
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Old 12-13-2019, 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Olafs 7.3 ex
As it has been suggested above you do not need to replace the engine, or pull engine out, or replace the cassettes, chains, guides, or anything else including the washer fluid. Just pull old tensioners out and pump up new ones with oil and reinstall.
​​​​​​​

If you go over to Youtube, there is a 4-part writeup by FordTechMakuloco on replacing the timing components on the Ford 4.0 SOHC engine. It's very detailed and he does stuff to this engine that even the Ford manuals don't cover. To do a complete and proper R&R involves replacing the back jackshaft seal, and requires a complete engine removal.
 
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