How to replace U-joints. 2004 F150
#1
How to replace U-joints. 2004 F150
I looked through about 15 pages and didn't see this topic anywhere, so I apologize if it's been brought up before. 2004 F150 Supercrew 4x4
Right now I have a broken roller cup on my rear U-joint. So I bought a new U-joint from the Ford dealer. When I pulled the driveshaft out I couldn't tell how to replace the U-joint. There are no E-clips to remove from the yoke/driveshaft ears. There are solid round "O" shaped clips that looked to be pressed in or something.
I've talked to the Ford dealer as well as a few other local mechanics and they haven't seen this setup before. So I didn't get any help there. It seems like my only option is to replace the whole pinion yoke, driveshaft, and U-joint together. Which sucks because this is just a frikkin' U-joint that needs replaced. That's it.
I guess what I'm asking is, is there a way to work on this non-serviceable U-joint? Thanx in advance for anyone that has tips, suggestions, or experience with this type of driveshaft/U-joint situation.
Later
chris
Right now I have a broken roller cup on my rear U-joint. So I bought a new U-joint from the Ford dealer. When I pulled the driveshaft out I couldn't tell how to replace the U-joint. There are no E-clips to remove from the yoke/driveshaft ears. There are solid round "O" shaped clips that looked to be pressed in or something.
I've talked to the Ford dealer as well as a few other local mechanics and they haven't seen this setup before. So I didn't get any help there. It seems like my only option is to replace the whole pinion yoke, driveshaft, and U-joint together. Which sucks because this is just a frikkin' U-joint that needs replaced. That's it.
I guess what I'm asking is, is there a way to work on this non-serviceable U-joint? Thanx in advance for anyone that has tips, suggestions, or experience with this type of driveshaft/U-joint situation.
Later
chris
#2
#4
Crap, I just found this on another website...Sorry brother.
Did you know that the U-joints in a 2004 F150 cannot be replaced? Check it out. You have to replace the whole driveshaft. I had a U-joint fail on the rear end of my driveshaft and the dealer could not figure out how to replace the U-joint. After 4 different U-joints to include a Ford part they decided it was impossible to do. Oh, they didn't have a press in the shop, can you believe it? They dropped my driveshaft on the floor twice.
They finally replaced it the driveshaft with one off of a new 2007. They had my truck for a week.
Apparently my driveshaft U-joints pucks were secured by some kind of pressed in clips from the factory. When you look at it you'll see what I'm talking about. If you’re familiar with changing U-joints it'll jump right out at you.
The new 2007 drive shaft had clips like you'd find on any U-joint since you were a kid, not what were on my original.
I guess it was some cost saving Idea someone from management came up with. I can't see how a drive shaft replacement could save money over a U-joint replacement.
Any thoughts?
Did you know that the U-joints in a 2004 F150 cannot be replaced? Check it out. You have to replace the whole driveshaft. I had a U-joint fail on the rear end of my driveshaft and the dealer could not figure out how to replace the U-joint. After 4 different U-joints to include a Ford part they decided it was impossible to do. Oh, they didn't have a press in the shop, can you believe it? They dropped my driveshaft on the floor twice.
They finally replaced it the driveshaft with one off of a new 2007. They had my truck for a week.
Apparently my driveshaft U-joints pucks were secured by some kind of pressed in clips from the factory. When you look at it you'll see what I'm talking about. If you’re familiar with changing U-joints it'll jump right out at you.
The new 2007 drive shaft had clips like you'd find on any U-joint since you were a kid, not what were on my original.
I guess it was some cost saving Idea someone from management came up with. I can't see how a drive shaft replacement could save money over a U-joint replacement.
Any thoughts?
#5
OK. You guys are seeing the same thing I've been hearing. My ex-girl works at as a manager at a repair shop. She was able to find out that a cutter tool could be used, but she was not allowed to purchase the tool. And like you said, it just looks like a hole saw tool. Oh well, I'll just bite it again and replace the shaft.
I appreciate the replys people. This site still kicks a** LOL.
Thanx
chris
I appreciate the replys people. This site still kicks a** LOL.
Thanx
chris
#6
Originally Posted by ford2006
you can get the tool from a ford dealer it looks like a hole saw but nine times out of ten you will replace the whole drive shaft not cheap!!
#7
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#8
u-joints
I have a 2004 f150 i am curently changing my u-joints mine did not have any clips or rings i was able to press them out with the help of a socket, vise and a punch and hamer. I found the haynes repair manual verry helpfull with this the only down side i have found is that the only place i could get the u-joints was from ford.
#9
#11
I was thinking the same thing. Only I would look for one that uses the e-clips. But why did the Ford parts guy sell you a u-joint for an '04 if they can't be replaced?
#12
I was pretty unhappy with Ford last week after my 04 with <60K miles started with that tell tale squeak from the driveline. I was pissed when I crawled underneath and found the staked universals, and things didn't get any better when I did the math and realized that repairing the shaft properly was going to cost more than a new shaft.
I considered the used shaft approach but decided not to deal with all the potential issues there. After much searching I ordered on line this morning from http://www.tascafordparts.com/. Price was the best out there and shipping was reasonable to.
Still not happy though that a $30 job turned into $300!
#13
Is the 2007 Ford F-150 the same?
I called a Ford Dealership and asked them if I could replace the U joint on an AWD 2007 Ford F-150, and they said that I could, and that I wouldn't have to replace the whole drive shaft. Is this true?
I think that my U joint is bad because I hear a squeaking noise when in reverse, and from what I've read, that is typical of a failing U joint.
I think that my U joint is bad because I hear a squeaking noise when in reverse, and from what I've read, that is typical of a failing U joint.
#14
My 2007 FX4 Scab 144.5" wb Fl;areside with one piece rear drive shaft has the "e" clips.
If your's does not, and if Ford will not sell you the kit to replace them which includes the cutter to remove the stakes holding the originals in and new U-joints with cups that take a snap ring inside the yoke .... why not check with NAPA otr other quality auto supply?
Also, way before I bought a new driveshaft from Ford, I'ld search salvage yards for a later truck with same length shafts that has cl;ips and simply look for a missing weight if it worries you, maybe like roll the drive shaft on two 2/4s and watch for a bent one? Look at the truck it's coming from, is the front hit hard enough to shorten it up? Any signs of impact on the shaft? I'ld say that near 90% are fine.
Then slip new U-joints in it and put it in place.
I've never bent a driveshaft, not even on my '78 Plymouth 440 when on two seperat occasions I bootlegged it to go after a good serious violation on a two lane roadway and it popped a universal. Once the rear popped, once the front popped. The time the rear one popped it shoved the shaft forward and the transmission yoke was driven up on the trans shaft far enough to pop a plug out of it and split the output shaft housing of the A-727 transmission. Back then, we surveyed cars at 80K and mine went in with a third U-joint making a rackety, a new trans tail shaft housing only, and that same original driveshaft. It never vibrated, never threw a weight, and twice hitting the ground never bent.
That doesn't mean I don't take great care with them, but they aren't as fragile as some make out. Just use some sense when shopping.
If your's does not, and if Ford will not sell you the kit to replace them which includes the cutter to remove the stakes holding the originals in and new U-joints with cups that take a snap ring inside the yoke .... why not check with NAPA otr other quality auto supply?
Also, way before I bought a new driveshaft from Ford, I'ld search salvage yards for a later truck with same length shafts that has cl;ips and simply look for a missing weight if it worries you, maybe like roll the drive shaft on two 2/4s and watch for a bent one? Look at the truck it's coming from, is the front hit hard enough to shorten it up? Any signs of impact on the shaft? I'ld say that near 90% are fine.
Then slip new U-joints in it and put it in place.
I've never bent a driveshaft, not even on my '78 Plymouth 440 when on two seperat occasions I bootlegged it to go after a good serious violation on a two lane roadway and it popped a universal. Once the rear popped, once the front popped. The time the rear one popped it shoved the shaft forward and the transmission yoke was driven up on the trans shaft far enough to pop a plug out of it and split the output shaft housing of the A-727 transmission. Back then, we surveyed cars at 80K and mine went in with a third U-joint making a rackety, a new trans tail shaft housing only, and that same original driveshaft. It never vibrated, never threw a weight, and twice hitting the ground never bent.
That doesn't mean I don't take great care with them, but they aren't as fragile as some make out. Just use some sense when shopping.
#15
Wow tbear, that sounds like a worst case scenario with a U joint breaking.
Well, I did the U joints, I didn't have to buy a new axle, I was able to do it with the U joints alone. They took a long time to do since the needle bearings kept falling towards the center of the cup, but I got in in eventually.
I didn't even need any sort of "kit". I called snapon and they had no idea what was meant about stakes. They wanted to sell the 12 mm 12 point socket to me for $40!
Well, I did the U joints, I didn't have to buy a new axle, I was able to do it with the U joints alone. They took a long time to do since the needle bearings kept falling towards the center of the cup, but I got in in eventually.
I didn't even need any sort of "kit". I called snapon and they had no idea what was meant about stakes. They wanted to sell the 12 mm 12 point socket to me for $40!