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  #61  
Old 10-23-2011, 02:28 AM
darkestskydiver darkestskydiver is offline
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i feel like a tard but, live and learn. i was trying to use both timing marks on the crank gear. i re-did it all and presto all is good. thanks.
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  #62  
Old 10-23-2011, 10:24 AM
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Glad to hear that now its the long process of putting it back together,GOOD LUCK, dont forget the dab of sealer on the crank keyway, head joints, pan joints
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  #63  
Old 01-17-2012, 07:13 PM
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Hi Jake here , I have a 05 expedition with p0340 and p0344. All circuits. Have been checked and cmp sensors replaced , same with phaser and it runs good and starts fine only Lags on power . oh and new pcm was programed, is this the alternator. The cam phasers were installed by the dealer I bought this truck, man I hope they set the timing right , or im going divine lol. what u guys think thanks
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  #64  
Old 05-23-2012, 11:19 AM
Richie7141 Richie7141 is offline
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Hello friend, on your post to set timing on 2004 5.4L 3V. I did everything as discribed. Engine started up and purred until it reached normal temp. then it starts knocking and wanting to turn off. runs fine till it warms up. code says timing off. Could the timing be off 180 degrees. I only did the right side.
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  #65  
Old 05-23-2012, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richie7141 View Post
Hello friend, on your post to set timing on 2004 5.4L 3V. I did everything as discribed. Engine started up and purred until it reached normal temp. then it starts knocking and wanting to turn off. runs fine till it warms up. code says timing off. Could the timing be off 180 degrees. I only did the right side.
The oil pressure is dropping too low to work the phasers properly. The pressure has to be minimum 25psi when hot but I would suspect anything below 30. Change the oil to 15-40 and see if that helps.
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  #66  
Old 05-24-2012, 09:13 AM
Richie7141 Richie7141 is offline
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hello everyone, I have a 2004 f-150 which i replaced the right camshaft. Now when it reaches normal temperture it knocks and shakes and wants to stall. It gave me several codes for VCT and cam sensors. also said timing was off. I replaced all sensors and it continues to do the same thing. Is it possible the timing could be off. I had a certified mechanic come to my house and set the timing on right side. could he have set on wrong compresion stroke. I took it apart and want to verify the timing. How do I know when the #1 piston is on the right TDC. Any body want to help me. Thanks.
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  #67  
Old 05-24-2012, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 70f100longbed View Post
The oil pressure is dropping too low to work the phasers properly. The pressure has to be minimum 25psi when hot but I would suspect anything below 30. Change the oil to 15-40 and see if that helps.
Ok, I will change the oil and filter. But I already have the timing chains exposed, should I re-due the timing marks on right side. If so, How do I know which stoke is the proper one on #1 TDC. The book says if #1 piston is on TDC, and you turn the crank a quarter turn then #3 piston will be on top. Thats how I did to set the timing the last time. I had #1 at TDC, then i put crank key at 12:00 and did the marks on timing chain as described. I have never done this before and really don't have the confidance that I'm doing it right.
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  #68  
Old 05-25-2012, 09:52 AM
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Go back to the first page and read my post describing how to set up the cams. The cams determine which stroke the engine is on so if you set the marks like I described on both cams and crank then it will be right. You don't want any of the pistons at TDC because when you take the chains off the cam can move due to pressure from the valvesprings and if it moves enough a valve could hit.
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  #69  
Old 06-02-2012, 01:28 PM
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Hello, I placed the crank at 12o'clock and removed tensioner on (R) side. When I removed the chain the cam moved to R about 1-2 inches. When I put chain on crank mark then on cam. The cam mark is at 10 o'clock. So the chain marks do not line up. Am I supposed to move cam with phaser bolt to the left so the (R) is on chain marks. They do not line up automatically. Thanks, Richie
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  #70  
Old 06-03-2012, 10:47 AM
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Yep turn the cam with the phaser bolt to get the marks lined up. Make sure it doesn't move when you put the tensioner back on. Also inspect the rubber gasket on the tensioner where it seals to the head. They are bad for blowing out and bleeding off oil pressure.
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Every 5.4 3V owner should have Lisle tool #65600
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  #71  
Old 06-10-2012, 11:09 PM
01ArizonaGator 01ArizonaGator is offline
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01 Navigator 5.4l 32V timing

I am trying to set the timing on my 2001 navigator and the Ford Service Manual is unclear on how to do it. For one it does not clearly define the 12 o'clock/11 o'clock positions or which head is the left or right. My questions are these:

It states "Rotate the LH Cam sprocket until the timing mark is approximately at the 12 o'clock. Rotate the RH camshaft timing sprocket until the timing mark is in the 11 o'clock position."
* So I believe the LH is the drivers side and visa-versa.
* and as far as the 11/12 o'clock is it in relation to the Head surface as it would be the 3/9 o'clock reference point.

The other is when you mark your chain because it does not have copper links, you fold it exactly in half and paint the one sideways link and paint the last two parallel ones. Then you put the single painted on one the crankshaft timing mark and then align the two painted links with the cam mark...
* So should you split the cam mark between the painted links?
* Do you make the chain tight one the opposite side of the tensioners/ guides and then align the Cam marks with the painted links?

Right now I am trying to get it working after a complete rebuild and when we put it into the vehicle and started it the first time it have a miss and the R/H (passenger) side catalytic converter would glow. We then checked compression, fuel pressure, fuel system for clogged lines, catalytic converters for blockage, injectors for operations, coils for firing, sensor cleanliness and if it had any codes. The codes are not present and the MIL is not on. Then drove it after cleaning the injectors and plugs and it had zero power and the miss was more prominent.

Please help...
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  #72  
Old 06-30-2012, 08:13 PM
Steve_Uzi Steve_Uzi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 70f100longbed View Post
None of the pistons will be at TDC if the marks are lined up right. The only thing that matters is the marks you put on the chains line up with the cam and crank marks.
Something which Ford didn't even do when they built my 5.4! See the pictures.. I did however replace the Phasers but still I never moved the chains..

I have the front cover off as I am replacing the timing chains / guides / etc because turns out on of the tensioners (pass side) is siezed up and the drivers side leaks!

All 3 of the timing marks are off by 5... see the pictures.. Also - I used a sharpie to make the links darker

Hopefully webshots is working! Grr...


Drivers (Left) Phaser
Click the image to open in full size.

Passenger (Right) Phaser
Click the image to open in full size.

Crank
Click the image to open in full size.
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  #73  
Old 01-29-2013, 05:18 PM
mystro3vm mystro3vm is offline
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please urgent in the middle of timing

hello i have a 3v , i put no1 tdc .
L chain single black link on crank dot approx 6oclock .
L mark on the phasor in between the two black links.
The chain is really very tight against the tensioner and arm it still has the pin in it.
on the guide side its seams really loose .
Is this normal?Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by mystro3vm; 01-29-2013 at 06:04 PM. Reason: pics
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  #74  
Old 01-31-2013, 10:31 AM
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Yep thats normal. There is an open valve on that side and the spring pressure is trying to turn the cam. Make sure you time the right side cam to the "R" mark on the phaser.
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Every 5.4 3V owner should have Lisle tool #65600
8L3Z-6M280-B updated VCT solenoids for 5.4 3V rattle
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  #75  
Old 01-31-2013, 03:56 PM
mystro3vm mystro3vm is offline
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Thank you 70f100longbed
may the v8 gods bless you with tourqe,hp and economy!

I made sure I timed the R chain to the R arrow
Verified that both single links both chains were on crank dot .

Mystro tip
You can feel the chain pins and the crank dot,
you see better if you take a photo.

Be careful with the cover bolts 9, 10 in the head
They snap really easy lol . A 50 metric 8 bolt from the hardware got me out the poo.

Last edited by mystro3vm; 01-31-2013 at 04:05 PM. Reason: Spelling
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Old 01-31-2013, 03:56 PM
 
 
 
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