Rear spring hangers
#1
Rear spring hangers
I just bought a 96 F-150. The frame is solid, but the passenger side spring hanger (not shackle) is rotted. The truck came with a recently replaced drivers side hanger.
I am a 20 yr old, self taught, do it yourselfer. Of course I'm still tackling unfamiliar projects and learning everytime I pick up a tool.
I want to replace this hanger before it snaps because I drive like a 20 yr old with a manual shift and a V8.
I'm on vaca in the mountains for the week, but I want to have the hanger delivered to my house for when I get there and get it done before vaca is over.
How is the hanger connected to the frame? Is it bolted with grade 8's? If it's something i cut off (rivet, ect), could I just use some grade 8's thru the existing holes?
Are there any problems,for you guys that have done this, that you ran into while replacing a hanger? Seems like a straight forward job.
Oh,a nd I found hangers on ebay for under $25 where the stealership charges over $50
I am a 20 yr old, self taught, do it yourselfer. Of course I'm still tackling unfamiliar projects and learning everytime I pick up a tool.
I want to replace this hanger before it snaps because I drive like a 20 yr old with a manual shift and a V8.
I'm on vaca in the mountains for the week, but I want to have the hanger delivered to my house for when I get there and get it done before vaca is over.
How is the hanger connected to the frame? Is it bolted with grade 8's? If it's something i cut off (rivet, ect), could I just use some grade 8's thru the existing holes?
Are there any problems,for you guys that have done this, that you ran into while replacing a hanger? Seems like a straight forward job.
Oh,a nd I found hangers on ebay for under $25 where the stealership charges over $50
Last edited by jimaug87; 01-05-2008 at 09:19 PM.
#2
There should me 4 rivets holding the hanger to the frame one in each corner of the spring hanger.
You need to grind the heads off from the rivets with a grinder.
Get a prybar and a BFH to get the rusty hanger off from the frame.
Then it is best to grind the rivets flush with the frame again and use a hammer or air chisel to push the rivets out of the frame.
Paint the mating surfaces of the new spring hanger and frame with some rust prevenative paint.
I think the holes are almost a 7/16 inch or 1/2 inch not shure. So use all grade 8 bolts,nuts,and lock washers to hold every thing together.
Its a pretty straight forward deal, and can be done in a good day of work.
Good Luck
You need to grind the heads off from the rivets with a grinder.
Get a prybar and a BFH to get the rusty hanger off from the frame.
Then it is best to grind the rivets flush with the frame again and use a hammer or air chisel to push the rivets out of the frame.
Paint the mating surfaces of the new spring hanger and frame with some rust prevenative paint.
I think the holes are almost a 7/16 inch or 1/2 inch not shure. So use all grade 8 bolts,nuts,and lock washers to hold every thing together.
Its a pretty straight forward deal, and can be done in a good day of work.
Good Luck
Last edited by Ford150/428/dud; 01-06-2008 at 03:57 PM.
#4
Yes, the original hangers are riveted onto the frame. After grinding the rivet head flat, it may be necessary to drill a hole thru the rivet to punch it out if it's really stubborn. Be aware of fuel lines and of course the fuel tank(s). I pulled the fuel tanks off of the 88 F-350 before I did any grinding, as well as the tank from the 84 Bronco when I did the shackle flip on the rear springs. Can you post a link to the ebay store selling the hangers? JSM84