What is the correct method for applying the dielectric grease on the COP boot when changing plugs? I'm looking at a spare (new) COP that I got from the dealer and am trying to figure out where to apply the grease according to recommendations here in the forum. Do you apply it on the inside part of the boot (where the spring attaches to the plug)? If so, how much do you apply? I get the part about applying a bead of grease around the top part of the COP where it meets the head (I see how this will make it easier to remove the COP later and also prevent water from entering down the well and contacting the plug), but what I don't get is where and how much do you apply where the plug meets the boot inside the boot. I also have been experimenting with various plug/socket combinations and I am finding that the little rubber sleeve inside the plug removal socket is staying on the plug when I remove the socket from the well after installing the plug, which is something I don't want to happen when that plug is stuck down in the plug well; so, another question is can I apply the grease to the insulator of the plug to help ease the socket sleeve off? Part of what I am wondering about is will there be any problems with grease getting between the COP spring and the top of the plug? Sorry about all the questions on COPs, plugs, etc. but I have been prepping for about a month (using guidance, tools, etc. from this forum) to tackle this job this weekend and don't want to screw it up, so I appreciate your help on the dielectric grease application.

BTW; I noticed the Motorcraft plugs I got from the dealer were not the exact AWSF22E that came with the truck, but the parts guy says the SP479's are the same universal plug for the 5.4. I was reluctant to accept them at first but check the motorcraft site and found them listed (with the AWSF22E) for the truck. Anybody else run into this SP479 as the plug? I'd hate to have to go back and rip my parts guy's head off if it isn't right, but he swears by the application, and they are Motorcraft plugs. I also checked here at this link and it appears to be correct:

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...66+4294 907922

 

I just did my plugs this weekend. I put a small bead around the end of the boot. I don't think there is anyway to avoid some getting on the spring. My truck runs like new. The dealer gave me the same plugs and I questioned it and the double checked them and they were correct for a SOHC 1999 5.4

 

I think that the grease that gets on the top of the plug is a non-issue as the metal still makes contact and if anything the grease keeps the oxygen away from the contacting area thereby reducing corrosion. I got a set of acell cops from rpmoutlet.com for <200.00 incl ship. They had a small amt of grease in the hole w the spring that the plug goes into - I added a little more. All-in-all a glop about the size of a pencil eraser, maybe a little less.
I do recomend blowing / vacuming down in the well (1/4 ID plastic tube on the vac and/or air gun) and then loosening the plug a bit and then blowing and/or vacuming down in there again - in fact I did it a few times as I am **** about tryin to keep it clean and not have junk fall into the comb-chamber.
Do 'em one at a time so the debris from the next one doesn't just get blown into the next hole. And I made sure to blow all around the area too. Good idea to grease the surface that contacts the head also (oops forgot that one myself...)

And as far as the plugs - The autolites I got had a small tit on the underside of the tang - directly above the electrode. Is that the platinum? Made that way I'm sure, but I still don't know if that little "tit" will burn away in 10,000 miles and effectively change the gap. Don't know if it would make a diff or not...? I did have luck - (forced luck, as I didn't have a socket with a rubber insert anyway) - with a small magnet that a bud gave me that has an antenna-like "handle" telescoping kinda deal.

Good luck and I'm sure the guys here will help all they can. Been a great god-send for me. THANKS!!!

 

Many thanks for your input/experience, I feel more assured about the process now. I'm hoping for good things even though I only have 85k miles on it. Its still a great truck after 7 years and I don't see a reason to sell it, so here I go into the 'heavy life-support phase'.

 

You're welcome. I have always done my own stuff for purely finacial reasons. I had a girlfriend that had a chrysler witha small 4cyl but with a turbo. Great mileage but power if you needed it also. It blew a head gasket from cold weather starts and overfueling (I think) anyway, Mopar did the repairs and it came back and I lifted the hood and thought what the hey, I'll check the oil. Couldn't get it to read on the stick. But the stick was wet and dripping with what looked like thin oil. Smelled for gas and I had to keep looking. They changed the head gasket and from trying to start there was tons of gas in the oil - never changed. When I pulled the oil drain plug the first thing to come out was a cup of antifreeze! Those guys did a head gasket and never even bothered to check the oil before sending it out the door!!! And we drove it 50 miles to home. With the high speed/close tolerance bearings in the turbo and all the other critical bearings and surfaces ,cam etc. OMG
Mopar denied. "You have other problems bring it in and we'll take a look"...Ya right. Since then the only thing I have done at a garage was a fuel pump/tank - dirty, messy etc.

Once again - Thank YOU for the input and feedback - worth it's weight in gold.

 

85,000 still a baby i've got 120,000 and still running strong. I'm not sure if this was the first plug change for this vehicle but they still looked good at this mileage(guessing it was the first)

I believe in doing my own stuff also. These mechanics(so called) are no better than me, more likely worse. They only know how to swap parts til fixed, no diagnosis expertice at all. FTE has given me the confidence to do almost anything. There are so many members with more know how helping me with problems

thanks to all