Hi Fellas:

'94 2WD, 2.3L, 5-spd with LOTS of miles, but well kept. I've developed a howl while traveling >30-mph.

At first I thought it may be a wheel bearing, but when I jacked up each front corner and performed the 'wheel bearing check' they both seemed snug enough. Then I thought it might be one or more tires howling, but I recently just switched out my Summer tires with four Winter tires and the howl is still present.

The howl is noticably less when I turn to the right at speed (such as a lane change from left lane to right lane)..... it's loudest when moving straight, most noticable if >30 mph. There is NO difference if I'm on the accelerator or have the clutch pushed in. I don't think it coming from the trans or rearend (both fluids levels are fine) only because of the 'less howl when turning' deal... I'm about ready to pull the front wheels off and do a visual inspection of both fron wheel bearings, but I thought I'd stop in here and ask what anyone here thought might be my problem....... Anyone with any thoughts?
BarnieTrk

 

Check your alignment. The fact that it changes when you turn the wheel for a lane change tells me that it is alignment related tire noise.

 

Do you get any noise/howl from either of your rear wheel bearings? How about noise from a U-joint?

 

Did you let someone use your truck or did you pull someone out or get pulled out?
or even carried a heavy un balanced load or towed or get hit maybe even in a lot?
I would check the alignment, If the rear end is pushing one direction it could make
a noise since it is fighting the front end. Have someone else drive it and follow them
see if the truck is crabbing, meaning the truck isn't tracking straight like the old Novas
used to do all the time. You may check your leaf spring bushings if they are wearing
out or rotting away it will throw off the tracking.

 

Thanks for the replies, Fellas!!

Well, I suppose it could be an alignment issue, however, the Summer tires that I just removed didn't indicate any poor wear patterns; they looked like nice, even wear across the tread pattern.

I'm not able to tell if it's coming from the front or rear,,, If I had to guess, it would be the front.

No, it's a 2WD, so it isn't a truck to pull ANYBODY out of anything. Yeah, I have used it to do some firewood hauling, but I didn't think I "hurt" it doing that. Nope, it hasn't been involved in any hit or accident. An inspection of the leaf springs indicate that they are fine -- none are missing, cracked or badly rusted.
I'll see about getting a helper to check me to see if the truck is crabbing - or I may be able to drive straight on a dirt road and then circle back and check to see if the wheel tracks line up or not..........

Last night, I jacked up the rear and carefully turned each rear wheel and did not detect any roughness or noise from the rear.
I crawled under and did the U-joint "up & down, then back & forth test" at both ends of the driveshaft. They both seems tight and noise-free.
I then jacked up each front tire and removed the wheel & caliper to allow the removal of the rotor. I removed each rotor and inspected the inner and outer wheel bearing. Both were in good shape on either side.

Now - I did notice that the LH lower ball joint has some slope in it, which I will replace - hopefully tonight. It's not that bad but I also know it won't get better, only worse. So before it wears the lower hole oblong in the front spindle, I'll replace it. Nevertheless, I don't think that loose ball joint would cause a howl... if I had vibration, or sloppy steering, sure, but I wouldn't think it would howl........
Secondly, I noticed that the LH rotor was badly rusted to the point that it was effecting the wear pattern on the pad. I chipped off the 'swelled' rust froim the rotor so it wouldn't cause continued 'weird wear' to the pad. Again, I doubt that the rust and weird wear would cause a howl, but I'll find out this AM.......

With this additional info, what do you guys think now?

BarnieTrk

 

Toss new balljoints in it if you have one that is bad. They are cheap and easy to do with a balljoint press.

After you do your balljoints, get it aligned.

Your toe could be off causing the tires to scrub and could be wearing evenly but much faster than usual.

 

I should add that I have the same howl and think I have narrowed it down to alignment issues.

 

Just a thought about checking the u-joints! and I have had the same symtems in other vehicles, not saying you are not on the right track.

I have found that when checking the u-joints it is better to drop the drive shaft when checking for a howling sound or vibration. I have found u-joints siezed in one direction causeing a vibration or VERY notchy when moveing them.

And these joints had no movement up and down or side to side.

Just a thought, Good luck.

 

my 99 b 4000 4x4 makes a humming noise like every 3 seconds then gone then does it again all the time more less when your going 30-35 mph. what could this be?

 

I wouldn't dismiss the possibility of differential problems just because the oil level is good.
Also check the front wheel bearings.

 

Well Fellas,

After much discussion, reading and chatting, I think the road howl is coming from the outer rear axle bearings. I've decided to order up both outer axle bearings (located on the axle, at the hub) and axle seals as well. I think I'll change the LH, lower ball joint up front sometime later - but not too much later - as I know it won't "heal" nor will it be good for my tires or the rest of the front suspension.

My work schedule and the weather may hamper me from getting these parts installed within the next few days, but I plan to get them in before 'Turkey Day' and before Winter 'officially' arrives here.

Some folks have suggested that I also replace the inner axle bearings (located inside the differential), but I'm not to confident that I'm up for that job at this point. I don't think that the outer bearings have self-distructed yet, so I'm guessing that there isn't a bunch of schapnel floating around in the differential lube at this point.

Thanks again to everyone for all of your advice, suggestions, pointers and opinions. I'll report back in once I get the axles pulled and the new bearings & seals installed. Hopefully, the axles pull out without too much hassle and the bearings come off the axles easily! ... Wish me luck!
BarnieTrk

 

Have you checked the alignment yet?

Replacing rear wheel bearings is a big job. You have to remove the axles to do it. I would check the alignment first and then go from there.

 

Big 10-4 on this - u-joints with lots of internal rust can get bound up so tight that you'll never get any play out them just yanking on them. Drop the shaft and do a quick check for an obvious bound up condition, as well as for any worn spot in the motion...

 

My 98 4wd was getting alot of road howl, I had a sticking brake caliper. It didnt pull or anything like that, just made alot of noise. I was sure that it was a front wheel bearing at first, but I jacked up the front end, no noise at all, but one wheel turned easily, the other was 2 hands and alot of effort to move. replaced that caliper, noise is gone.

 

Fellas;

Well, some of you guys scared me away from tearing into the rear axle bearings/seals for the time being.
I checked both front calipers and they both turn about as easy as I'd expect.

I've decided to change out the bad lower ball joint next.

I've removed the castle nut on top of the lower ball joint. Now I don't have a fancy & expensive "ball joint removal tool" but I do have a large C-clamp. So I fitted the C-clamp over the top of the threaded portion of the ball joint (where the castle nut came off of) and have a spacer beneath the spindle which should allow the ball joint to push down & out of the spindle when I tighten the C-clamp. I have tightened the C-clamp and wack the spindle a couple of times which SHOULD allow the bnall joint to pop loose. NOTHING. So I've hosed it with some penetrating oil and left the C-clamp on with the hopes that it'll loosen up while I'm typing this............

Now according to my Haynes book, there should be a snap ring on the bottom of the ball joint. There is no visible snap ring.
The base of the ball joint is nearly flush with the spindle casting.
What's up with that - did some '94s get different ball joints WITHOUT snap rings on the bottom?

Any help, suggestions, opinions, advise, comments are more than welcome!
BarnieTrk

P.S.
'94 XLT, 2WD, 2.3L 4-cyl, non-A/C, 5-spd. Std. cab.