TTB? and no godblessmud not a body lift not a big fan of those.

 

"Twin Traction Beam" is a type of independant front suspension and is not a straight axle. This means that you are limited on how much you can lift without other modifications to drop the axle. The pivot has to be lowered as well or the camber will be way off.
More involved with lifting a TTB front axle.

 

dont think so is ttb what ford had before the IFS because i think i know what your talking about, this is streight axel with leafs in the front so dont think its ttb.

 

TTB axles were under most 4x4s from 80-96.
They also had leafs, and I've seen many people that didn't know what they were talking about call them "straight" axles, b/c they have leaf springs!

Not saying anything about you, but some people are just ignorant.

 

Ignorance is bliss right, just to make sure i wasn't going to stick my foot in my mouth any farther I walked out to the barn and took a second look, sure enough it is TTB, donno why i didnt see it right away because i know that that type of suspension looks like a scissors , I guess i was to busy tying to get it running. sorry about that. So no what how hard is it to lift a TTB front end? should i find a streight axel and try a conversion or still get those springs bent and make a drop bracket? and what has you guys experance been with TTB? thanks for the help

 

My experience with it is that when you lift it, the pivot brackets crack the engine crossmember. It seems like a good setup for stock, but not so much for lifted trucks. If you are serious about going bigger, get a solid axle.

Or..... you could hack the fenders way back and still get the bigger tires on.

Did I miss what size tires you want to run?

 

Dono what size tire thinking 35x16x16 with a 10" leaf spring lift. how would i do a solid Axel conversion like what kind of Axel (like out of a type of truck) and how do i find out the gearing of this truck. also what other things would need to be done. this is just for fun and is a weekend project that I'm doing on a budget, so its on my daily driver. thanks for the advise.

 

I've seen an F250 clear 35s stock, without much room, but still no rubbing.

A 10" lift might be overkill.
A 4" and fender trimming would be great.

If you could find a D60 front axle from just about any F350 from 78+ would work.
The TTB D50 (i think that's what's under your truck), might be ok for those wide 35s, but not much more.



To find out the gear ratio, there should be a tag on the rear axle bolt cover that'll have some numbers on it. If it reads 4L10, then you have 4.10 gears and a limited slip.

 

type in (lifting front) in the search bar you will find one of my old posts from my hi boy expierement. you will see a post put there by ivan ribic look at his gallery he had lots of lift mods and a wicked truck to boot. for my .02 when you think lift think steering. same with a homemade locked rearend. welded rearends are awesome for straight lines. as far as welding them just take the rearend apart and clean all the parts with degreaser. get some good 7018 1/8th rods and go to work on the spider gears. your just making a homeade spool is all i've seen them in 8.8's and 10 bolt gm rearends(dragcars) and they work well. once you start lift your truck you just can't stop its like the plague or something. hahaha

 

that's what im saying i know if i only do 4" then ill want 8" then 10" so i might as well do it right the first time. Thanks for the info. i am planing on starting with 36" tires and then probably go bigger as time goes by. As for welding the rear end that will probably wait till i have it in the mud and see how it does.

But right now I'm lost on project now that i got it running and the box is off I don't know what to do first, I guess there are two chooses right now for me body work or suspension/drive train, the truck is in rough shape and needs a new box doors front and rear glass and maybe a new front fender. but i dont know if i should keep taking stuff off like the cab/ front end and do the suspension work And if i start with the suspension should i paint the chaise before or after i do the work to prevent rust?. IM LOST some one point me in the right direction.

 

http://128.83.80.200/taco/scarysteering.html Do Not do any of this crap on your
build up!!! And if you do at least send him some pictures!!

 

That has to be one of the funnest web sites on the Internet, if what im planning on doing comes out to look like that, i will roll it out of the barn and light it on fire and say it was a welding accident, so no one can see the jacksavige hack job i did on it, I try to take pride in what i do( most of the time).

 

It really depends how much you feel like getting into.
I left all body panels on, put the suspension lift, and didn't paint anything.
I didn't feel like getting into it toooo much(not a restortion, and trying to keep cost down).

IF you live in an area known for rusting body panels and frames, then I'd strip it all down, then put a good coating on everything(POR-15 is some good stuff, but pricey!)

How involved do you want to get?

 

want a decent body on the thing, but more interested in the off road capabilities, thinking about doing a drop bracket to were the ttb meets in the middle of the truck out of like 4"x4"x1/2" square tubing and 1/2" stock, Im thinking of making a new cross member and making a upside down triangle that mounts to it, that has a a hole for the bolt for the ttb to mount on. anybody got an idea if this will work or should i try to find a straight Axel? then get the springs bent at a local shop, dono what im going to do for the steering though? And start with the suspension first right? ill try to get picks of the truck .

 

You could buy a ttb pivot drop bracket to install the lift, buy some lift springs, or do a combination of add a leaf, shackle flip. Or go all out and get a solid axle.

For the steering, depending on how high you go, you might only need a drop pitman arm or just an adjustable drag link.

Try looking at a few lifts for your truck at www.broncograveyard.com