Fire
Thanks for the invite.
I live on the Sout TX coast so I already have that part and my kids are long gone from the nest But I have been thinking of going to see Epcot for some time.

Not sure what blend you are running but BD can be produced for $1/gal or less. If you are running 50/50 you are paying about $1.50/gal at current prices.

 

Depending on how much I thin the WVO, it costs me anywhere from 70 to 90 cents a gallon. I thin it more for the truck than the Mercedes. My supply limits me so that I only run the blend about half of the time in the truck.

The blend also costs me much less in upfront costs, as I set up the filters for very cheap compared to building a processor.

If you come to visit Epcot I'm sure you'll tire of the crowds quickly at Disney. When you want a break for a day drive a couple of hours south on the East coast and we'll work on a processor for me to see if you can make me a convert. Unitl then, I'm sure we'll butt heads again sooner instead of later.

 

How long have you two been at it LOL.......

 

LOL I look forward to it

 

I haven't payed much attention to this thread since I posted, but I just wanted to post a couple thoughts. My truck is a 95 that came from northern Michigan and, although it runs well, it is pretty rusty underneath as well as the body. I am willing to be a test mule for others. If I can help to disprove some urban legends I will be happy to do so. Since my truck is only driven part-time, I have a hard time justifying a price tag $1,500 to $2,500 for one of the conversion kits out there- that is, of course with me doing the installation. As for BD, much like firemediceric, I don't feel like messing with all those chemicals, and even if I did make BD, some really,really smart people tell me that if I don't wash the freshly made BD, I will destroy my injectors.
Does anyone remember when R134 replaced R12 in our AC systems? Many people were conned into spending hundreds of dollars replacing components that did not need to be replaced. We were told that if we simply replaced the R12 with R134 we would destroy our AC systems. I hope we all now know that was a lie.
I simply want to learn the truth.

 

My two cents. I have 2 7.3 Powerstrokes and one 7.3 IDI, one 6.9 IDI, and two Dodge 1 ton NON ELECTRIC 12 valve Cummins. I run 50-100% bio in the powerstrokes and 50-75% WVO in the others. I blend the WVO with bio or #2, depending on what I have on hand. I have been doing this for over a year with no issues. When it is below 55 degrees I run only straight no 2, or maybe a little bio mixed in. The two IDI will not crank on the WVO mixed unless it is extremely HOT outside, or I ether it, which I prefer not to do. THe two Cummins will crank on 100% WVO even in 60 degree temps. however, the two fords come with two tanks so I crank them on bio, get the engine hot and swap. After much testing, I would not put WVO in a Powerstroke for anything. I do know that itwill not seperate, when I started this one year ago I put some in a jar and left it in my shop beside my filtering system and it is STILL THERE. It will not seperate as long as you stay away from LARD AND SHORTENING. If it solidifies in the REFRIDGERATOR, (all of them solidify in the freezer) it is only worth making bio out of.

 

Has anyone tried adding 10% RUG to their blends? From what I understand it prevents the wax and glycerin from sticking or stringing which can cause coking problems with the injectors and rings.

There were many detailed and scientific tests done in Europe around 20 years ago and almost all of them that only blended with diesel, eventually had some level of coking.

 

I know of one person, Bork on Info-Pop, that runs up to 20% RUG with the WVO in his 7.3 DI E-350 van. He is a neighbor of mine and he reports good results. When ever I see him his van seems to be running fine.

On the same forum Krugel (Sp?) runs 20% RUG in his IDI Ford.

I worry about pre-ignition and run no more than 5% in the blend I make