My check engine light just cam on and I went to AutoZone and they said I had a misfire on the #3 and #5 cylinder. I would like to do it myself, but I am not a mechanic, I am trying, so I need more details or better yet diagrams... I would appreciate it any information or links that you can provide me. I bought 2 Motorcraft coils and 8 Autolite spark plugs... Figured I would replace all of the plugs. I have 76k on it. got the grease and lubricant, too. What tools should I go with...?

 

Spark plug socket, extension & ratchet, plug gapper for the plugs. To replace the coils just unplug them and plug the new ones in.

Dan Harriman 84 F150 lwb
Orange, Texas

 

Thanks for the quick reply. Anything else would be greatly appreciated!

 

I took my Expedition to the Ford Dealership here and paid for the diagnostic to determine why the check engine light was on. My truck was idling rough!!! The report came back with #3 and #5 misfiring - Change Ignition Coil and Spark Plug. Ford wanted $600.00 to change out the two coils and spark plugs. With the diagnostic charge and the parts at Autozone, it cost me about $225.00.

Well, the good news is that with my father's help we changed the coil and plug on #3 and #5 after 5 hours... (With the help of the instructions from Dave West column on changing the spark plugs on a F-150) https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...ter_F150s.html
Thanks for the info, Dave!!! I thought we had all the parts, but had to go back to Autozone twice. Started the truck up and the idling seems to be gone... but the bad news, is the check engine light is still on. Does the sensor need to be restarted??? Onboard computer?? Any thoughts??? If we did everything right, I thought it would turn off.
I really don't want to drive around with the light on and nothing is wrong. We are going to attempt to change out the plugs next weekend, but we wanted to fix the immediate problem now. Also, for those of you who have done this alrealready. How did you get the get the #3, #4 and #7, #8 plugs...??? Wow... #3 was just incrediblly hard to get out! That's part of the reason why we decided to just fix the problem and not fix the others now. Really would appreciate some guidance!!!!

 

Quote "but the bad news, is the check engine light is still on. Does the sensor need to be restarted??? Onboard computer?? Any thoughts??? If we did everything right, I thought it would turn off."

You will probably have to have the MIL, which used to be called the check engine light, but now called the malfunction Indicator Lamp, reset with a scanner. AutoZone may be able to reset it, but I am not sure. Any repair shop can reset it, but they will more than likely want to charge you for it.

Therre is a very slim chance that after 40 or more drive cycles, it will reset itself, but I don't think that was an option on a vehicle as new as a 2000. You may be able to disconnect the battery for a minute or so and the light may get reset that way, but you will also lose any volatile memory the computer is storing.

Good luck and let us know what you finally did to get the MIL to go off.

Drive friendly,

Dan Harriman 84 F150 lwb
Orange, Texas

 

Disconnect the battery for a few minutes and hook it back up. Your CEL will be off.

 

To get those back plugs I will share what I did...it is actually quite easy once you get the method down....


My plugs were 5/8 so i took a 5/8 deep well socket (with the rubber insert that holds the plug) and attached it to a short extension (approx 3" I would guess) then I attached that to a universal joint followed by a long extension (about 9" i think it is)...

If your extensions and universal joint are not the locking type (the ones with the little tab you must slide in order to remove them from eachother) then use electrical tape to tape them together to make sure the socket or extension doesnt come off while its down in the hole...

With this set up I was able to use the ratchet well above all the wires and such and I didnt even need to remove the fuel track that rides across the injectors...

Hope that helps a little

Oh and by the way.....removing the negative battery connection for a few minutes will indeed reset the light...but I have read that some of the regular info stored on the computer will also be erased and the vehicle may run a bit rough until it has cycled the information again

 

Just want to say thanks to everyone for the advice!!! I am sure glad I found this website and posted my problem. It is a wealth of information that I will keep referring back to time and time again!!!!

 

I bought a code reader for around 70 bucks because of the same COP issue. I'm sure it will happen again seeing that I only replaced 1 COP. Best $70 ever spent and it tells you the code as well as resetting the check engine light.
It is a AUTOXRAY CODE SCOUT 700 Compact OBD II Code Reader

 

I hadn't had an oppotunity to try the options yet. I figured I would do it this weekend. Last night on my way home from work, the check engine light just turned off. So far, the work we did changing the #3 and #5 coil and plug is working. The truck is running just like it was before the problem started. I do intend to change out the others in the next coming weeks, but work and my son's football takes up alot of my time. Oh, well, it needs to be done...


Thanks again foe everyone's input!!! Glad I found this site. I will continue to read up daily for tips... I am almost finished paying off this truck after 4 yrs and it needs to last me at least another 5+ years, so I need to keep it in great condition.

Thanks again!

 

why change the plug if it is just the coil?

 

Why do the job twice if you don't need to? Pending mileage of course. The oem plugs are supposed to be good for 100K miles most of the older expeditions are probably right about there. Mine is at 72K miles now and i had to change a coil out at around 68K miles, I didn't change the plug as I plan on doing plugs and boots next spring.

P.s. this thread is like 4 years old!

 

yes true I just got on board my 06 5.4 3V is a real pain changing plugs that is why I'm looking into changing plugs I hear they break why would Ford do that it doesn't make sense plugs braking? truck is nice but why build an engine that you can't change plugs on.
Just asking do chevies do that or dodge?

 

Having similar issue but the truck dint log any codes think it could be a clogged cat .
.?

 

An easy way to check for a clogged exhaust (cat) is to pull off the rear dpfe hose off the sensor and put a vacuum pressure gauge in the end of the hose ,rev your engine to 2500 rpms or so and you should have no more than 4 psi