Hello Everyone, Have a 1995 E-150, 5.0L, EFI, Auto. Got gas yesterday and when it got to top it started to leak out. I am in a wheelchair so looking under was not an option. Got friend to look under and he says there is a split in the rubber tubing up near the top of the Gas neck filler tube. I assume this is a breather/ overflow tube? Spilt right near the clamp that holds it to filler tube. Leaked gas for miles and when parked with motor off the vacuum lessened and it stopped. I know I read about this somewhere here on the forum, but could use some advice anyway. Can I just fill it half way and not have a leak? Do I have to drop tank to get at filler neck and rubber line? I believe this was covered under the " Most Ridiculous Parts Price." I am looking for the easy way out ( aren't we all) can the rubber hose be replaced with out dropping tank? If I remeber correctly from other posts the tank needed to be dropped. Any help or idea's would be a great help.

 

I don't have a 1995 E-150 in front of me, but, on any Ford vehicle (other vans, trucks, rangers), loosen the clamps holding the hoses, then you remove the filler door and filler neck attachment. Then from NAPA (bring it with you) get a standard rubber gas hose (1.5"?) and 3/8"? fuel line and replace both lines.

The small line is there mainly to tell the station gas pump when to shut off. If that is the only line broken, just replace it with a top quality fuel line. I think its 3/8, but, I haven't done one for a while so I am not sure. A fuel injected fuel line (about $8 a foot) might be a better choice because it will last longer, if you can flex it enough to fit.

 

Thanks for the quick reply recarbo. I bought the van a little over a year ago on EBay and it has been a good van. It is set up for the wheelchair and makes life easier. Anyway, it always had a problem with gas pumps. It would shut off early or you would have to hold the handle. I knew I was going to have to find out what was what with it someday. Someday is here! LOL Well from what you describe that sounds like a relatively easy fix. I was dreading that the tank would have to come down. My friend noticed that after it sat it got bigger, the crack. I imagine that the gas keeps it swollen and then when it sits it dries out and get wider. I will have my buddy look at it for me and see which tube is leaking. Think they should both be replaced? Or just go for the easy fix and fix the broken line. Thanks, Kevin

 

Yes, that was the thread. From response there I learned that the 1.5" fuel line from NAPA will not replace the obscenely expensive & obsolete fill hose kit from FORD b/c one end is bigger than the other. Responses also indicated that the gas tank does indeed need to be lowered to gain access to the clamp at that end. The suggested alternative hose from a Chrysler also proved to be expensive & obsolete. I could not bring myself to special ordering it, sight unseen, at a cost well over $150, in the hope that it would fit well.

My fuel filler hose leak was in the, cracked w/age, main 1.5" filler hose & only leaked while actually filling or sloshing a full tank. It did not leak on a half tank or sitting, but I was still very concerned about risk of fire & possibility of rain getting in. Employed a temporary solution & used many small applications of cyanoacrylate (Super Glue) to seal up the cracks.

 

OK, so I found the hoses at Ford here on Long Island. Bigger hose is $100 and smaller one is $45. My buddy tells me it is the smaller hose that is cracked if that helps. So ,do I have to drop tank or not? Parts guy says maybe only part way. He also told me that getting tubing from parts store should work. They estimate 4 shop hours and parts. OUCH! So what is the deal here. I have 2 different opinions, lets have some more. Clubwagon, what did you do to fix it? Or did you not fix it? rebocardo, have you done this repair yourself? I need someone who has done the job and then tell me what has to be done. I need some direction, that is why I joined the site. Being in the wheelchair I will have to get some help, so I need to give them an idea of what we are in for. Or worst yet have dealer repair it! Help me out. Thanks, Kevin

 

I am Clubwagon, not Club Wagon. I know its confusing...

You will have to drop the tank. Its not too hard. Run the fuel low first to lighten the tank. Then place a floor jack with a piece of plywood on it (to distribute the load on the tank) under the tank. Then back off the strap retainers to lower the tank. That will allow access to the top of the drop in unit where the hose attaches.

On some tanks you can replace the vent line without dropping the tank. However, if the vent line is leaking the filler line won't be far behind. Replace them both at the same time so you won't have to do the job twice.

Steve
'95 Clubwagon XLT

 

Sorry I missed this yesterday. You can buy 1.5" Fuel Filler hose and 3/4 " marine exhaust hose for the vent at your local marine dealer such as Boat US or West marine. ($9 per foot and $5 per foot respectively) You need 1 foot of each. You don't have to drop tank as long as you can fit your hand into the space between tank and body. I have big hands and just recently did mine. Dealer wanted over $200 for the replacement filler neck with hoses.

 

Is the 1.5" fuel hose a good fit at both filler neck & tank fittings? Others have claimed that 2 diameters were used & that FORD replacement hoses are formed with a curve & bigger at one end than the other.

I don't know about "marine exhaust hose" but NAPA & other parts stores sell straight 1.5" fuel hose. You also certain that "1 foot" is adequate? No problem with any CURVE?

I always enjoy 100% contradictory posts. Glad I backed off & tried a temporary fix until I could sort this out.

 

Only Boat US had both the 3/4" and 1.5" in stock. Carquest had only 3' pieces of 1.5" for $40. No auto parts stores had 3/4" hose at all. I was assured that the 3/4" marine exhaust hose would hold up to gas vapors. I experimented by taking a small piece of interior of hose and soaked it in gas for a week and there was no deteriation evident. The tank inlet has an angled entry but no problem with the hose I used. Same size on either end. Measure twice/ cut once to be sure as Norm Abrams says.....Hardest part of the job was loosening old hose clamps on top of tank, if your lucky a 5/16" socket will be at the right angle to ratchet it off. Use a little wd-40 type oil to lube the hoses before pushing them on. Before tackling this job I did run the tank to near empty in anticipation of dropping/ lowering tank, but it wasn't necessary. This was on a '92 e-350. My check engine light hasn't been flickering at all lately either by the way........ Johnny

 

My '95 5 liter Clubwagon XLT had different sizes on each end and the OE replacement hose had a molded bend on the tank end.

I was able to lower the tank easily about 5 to 6 inches. Made it super easy to access the top of the tank.

Steve
'95 Clubwagon XLT

 

OK, My buddy got the big filler hose off without dropping tank. Had big crack at the top of factory bend. Tank is 3/4 full at the moment so we are going to do main 1.5" line first, and then run till tank is almost empty to do the 3/4" vent line. He got tube off and now we are getting 1.5" gas line tube from CarQuest and will install tommorow. I know , measure twice, cut once! The factory tube had small radius molded in, but not much. I think that the 1.5" will fit with no problems, and just a hint of bend in it. Much cheaper and do not have to drop tank. Will let you know what happens. With so much talk about 2 different sizes on main tube it had me confused, but seeing the line I do not feel there will be a problem. Nice to know that I may get away with out dropping tank for breather 3/4" line also.( Hopefully.) Parts for 92-96 are supposed to be much the same, so stands to reason that 92 will be similiar to 95.

 

Thanks, nice to know your big fuel filler hose came off w/o dropping tank.

Please also let us know if the straight 1.5" fuel hose fits well on both ends & exactly what length is needed. A caliper measurement for diameters of both the filler neck & tank nipple would be nice while they're apart, to resolve the issue.

 

Hello Every One, Well we replaced the old fuel filler hose with a piece of 1.5" Fuel hose from CarQuest and it worked well.We used a piece about 14" long. There maybe a small difference in sizes from one end to the other, but there is a ridge on the metal pipe that the hose slides over so that takes care of any difference. I still have to run it dry to replace the smaller breather tube 3/4". But in my opinion there is no reason to buy the over priced factory hose. I had to buy a 4' piece, so now I have enough to do it 2 more times. LOL The 4' piece was $40. But now it is done and it is time to cruise to the beach! When I replace the smaller hose I will update this post and let you all know how I make out. Also the next time I fill her up with gas. Thanks Again everyone for your opinions, and help.

 

I just fixed the same prob on my 97 e150. It was the bigger hose also. Not too tuff of a task. I did loosen the rear strap for convenience but didn't have to completely drop the tank.

 

Kevin, sorry I did not get back to you ASAP, this is the first time I had time to visit all the forums I normally do.

I guess you found my advice about the 1.5 hose was spot on.

re:getting it to fit

For anyone doing a search for future reference.

It varies from vehicle to vehicle, but, what you can do is use a lube (silicon maybe - I usually use grey or coppper anti-seize in case I ever want to remove it without cutting it) on the inside of the hose, push it way past the ridge on filler neck or tank side and slide it as far as it can go.

This give you enough room to get the other end on if you slightly bend the hose. Then pull it down where you want it and clamp it.

This avoids dropping the tank.

The larger end is usually on the filler side and a worm drive clamp will snug it up enough so it doesn't leak gas or fumes. Yes, the preformed hose can have two slightly different sizes on the ends. Ford does the same on the emissions and some cooling stuff under the hood on vehicles too.

Doesn't mean a good SS worm clamp can't solve the problem to avoid the $300 dealership trip.