What steps to change to B20?

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  #16  
Old 06-22-2007, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by kennedyford
The only suggestion is to carry an extra fuel filter as bio will clean out your system and shove all the junk into your filter. Swithing back and forth will not affect your engine whatsoever. Youll want your addatives for the low sulfer diesel but b20 overcomes all of the lubricity factors. No addatives for b20, addatives for number 2.
Just as a possible scenario, what if I start running B20, and then I find myself in a spot where I have 1/4 tank of fuel left but no bio pumps nearby. Are you saying that its OK to put in 3/4 tank of #2 on top of the B20 (with some additive for the #2) an it will still be good to go?

I guess that is my main worry...trying to switch to B20 and ending up in situations where I have to mix it with ULSD.
 
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Old 06-22-2007, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeSDK
Just as a possible scenario, what if I start running B20, and then I find myself in a spot where I have 1/4 tank of fuel left but no bio pumps nearby. Are you saying that its OK to put in 3/4 tank of #2 on top of the B20 (with some additive for the #2) an it will still be good to go?

I guess that is my main worry...trying to switch to B20 and ending up in situations where I have to mix it with ULSD.
Not a problem! You can mix biodiesel and dino-diesel in any percentage, or you can use dino-diesel by itself. Even the addition of 2% biodiesel to ULSD will increase the lubricity by over 60%! Enjoy!
 
  #18  
Old 06-23-2007, 08:45 AM
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Yes you can switch at any time with no effects on the engine other than it being noisier and smelling bad and just knowing there is very little lube for the fuel system. Been there done that on trips. Find bio then don't. Guess have to find bio along my route better.
 
  #19  
Old 06-27-2007, 09:17 PM
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So in my 84 with a 6.9 I can run B20 and not have to add anything right???
 
  #20  
Old 06-28-2007, 09:05 AM
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Right!!!

Just be sure you dont have any rubber stuff like fuel lines or O-rings, if you do replace them with vitron. It would be a good idea to change fuel filters with each tank of fuel because an '84 is most likely gonna have major build up in the tank and lines and B20 will scrub it clean resulting in plugged filters.
 

Last edited by Phydeaux88; 06-28-2007 at 09:08 AM.
  #21  
Old 07-02-2007, 12:41 PM
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OK folks-

I was on empty, so I happened by a station that sells B20 and I got a half a tank yesterday. Roughly speaking, once you start running B20, how soon should I wait to change the fuel filter? Is a couple of days too soon? Should I wait till the weekend to let the fuel system get good and flushed out?

I just don't want to wait too long and have to change a dang filter on the side of I-40 in rush hour and summer heat.

Guess I'm getting a little antsy about it because I got the Water in Fuel light about an hour ago, then stopped for lunch and it went away. Maybe they are unrelated events......


Thanks
 
  #22  
Old 07-02-2007, 07:56 PM
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Normally a couple of tank fulls then you might want to change. Especially if you know you've had some dirty fuel in the past.
 
  #23  
Old 07-02-2007, 10:44 PM
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i just put b99 in my 7.3 idi and it ran fine till 1/8th tank then it started missing so i put ulsd in it and brought it back up to 1/2 tank and it ran ok but it still had a slight miss. i changed the fuel filter but the old one did not look that bad. when they clog can you acually see the stuff on the filter. im thinking about cutting mine to see if it will show me anymore than just looking at the filter from the water seperator side. im just wondering if the bio did it or my tank could be off 1/8th tank and it was almost empty. after i replaced the fuel filter its been running fine
 




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