I was just wondering what kind of gas mileage I could expect out of a stroked 460 to 514? I get 10 MPG empty and 6 MPG pulling a 10,000# trailer. Would the 514 be better or worse under similar driving.
Why I ask is I'm really wondering if I want to rebuild my 460 in my 86 F250, 4x4, 460, C-6, 3:55 gears 200,000 miles on it. The other option for me is to take my 88 D250, 2wd, 360, 4sp, 3:54 gears, with a great covered Utility Box which is real important to me & 100,000 miles on it, and build the 360 by stroking it to 408. The Dodge boys tell me the 408 will get better mileage than the 460 does now. The 360 gets 13 MPG now. To build a 360 to a 408 is cheaper than to build a 460.
Will, someone throw out some opinions. I know the FORD - DODGE deal will possibly dilute good input, I hope not. I'm not going to go buy something else. I have both these trucks in great mechanical condition, the cost to buy another truck that is in the shape that either of these trucks are would not be worth it to me.

 

i honestly could see a 514,in a towing application,get better mpg than a 460 simply because it wouldn't be working as hard to move the load.also empty it would move the truck more freely.of course more cubes need more fuel so i could be all wet.

hopefully someone has done this and can give some real world results.my bronco gets about 4mpg,but not a towing application just hauling a...

 

it all depends on how you build it. i wouldnt bother with the 514, id go right to the 521. (.030 over and 4.3" stroke) if you put a mild cam in, aftermarket timing chain set straight up, and port your heads and put headers and true dual exhaust on, and strip the emissions crap off, youd probably get 8mpg regardless of what youre doing, and have way more power on demand then you would ever need. if you put a big cam in your mileage will go straight in the crapper- around 4mpg or less.
the main reason your dodge gets better mileage is its 2wd. if you rebuilt it to 408 it still wouldnt have the pulling power the 460 would, youd have to revv it higher to make power, and in the end its still a dodge

 

Thanks for the input. Is the 521 a bolt in or is block machining required. I agree the more cubes more power in the end. I'm not real up on the 460 as far as performance options. Is there someone who could tell me what I need to build a 460 that will pull 10,000# better than stock yet get gas mileage. My 460 has 200,000 miles on it. I have a Edelbrock Performer intake with a 4160 Holley, 2.5" dual exhaust, a Cloyes True street roller timing chain set 4 degrees retarded. That gave me torque. But I have had guys drive my truck and say it doesn't have the power a 460 should have for what I have. The smog is long gone. The dist. has been recurved, timing @ 10 degrees. I have good oil pressure @ 2500 RPMs 200 degree water temp 55 PSI. Idle around 25 PSI. A comment was made by a tuner that it acted like it was never fully broke in. Like driven by someone who never ran it even a little hard.

 

a 514 is 4.140 crank and .080 over bore.a 521 is a 4.300 crank with a .030 overbore.the ford crate 514 is actually a 521 because they are all .030 over but they call it a 514 for some reason.i guess you could get 514 with a 4.300 crank and std bore pistons but i don't know if they are readily available.

the longer stroke would be the way to go for your set-up.there is no block clearing required to stroke it.you can fit a 4.5 crank without getting your die grinder out.

maybe advance you cam 4 degrees it may help bottom end.usually retarding the cam moves the power up in the rpm range.

 

find a 12v cummins and drop it in the dodge

 

Yea a Cummins would be the best way to go in the Dodge. But you know I'm not a diesel guy. I just like gas motors. I never got Drag Racing out of my central nervous system. When I was 17 years old I belonged to a car club that was a Charter Member of District 7 of the NHRA. Diesel fumes never turned me on.
I have a question who sells crate 514s or is there some company that will build to application that is better priced than Jasper Engines?

 

you can hop that 12v cummins up to 500 rwhp for alot cheaper than a gas motor, not to mention the near 1000 ft lbs or rwtq

 

well... the shortblock can be done for about 2000 dollars for a 521, or 2300 for a 545- thats balanced and assembled in your block if you tear the block down, and shop around for the parts. id throw some trick flow street heads on there- theyre about 2200 dollars. a nice mild hydraulic cam, rpm air gap intake, 750 edelbrock carb, and you should be able to get 8-10 mpg

 

darrin,
That you feel is 8-10 MPG towing 10,000#? That would or should give me 12-14 MPG empty. I want to do something. For around $6000 I could have a real good engine for me use. That's far cheaper than a newer truck. Of course I plan to install a TCI or Hughes torque converter with this deal. Thanks for the input. The rest of the Ford is pretty much rebuilt or in good condition. Then I need to find a Utility Box for the Ford, or take the one off the Dodge, buy a Ranger for the wife.
Kabota, Before I'd install a Cummins in the Dodge I have I'd buy an older Dodge with a 12V Cummins in it. I see 4x4 D250, Cummins 12V around for $4900-$6500. rust free west coast trucks.

 

depending on the cam you pick, 12 mpg could be doable empty if you spent a bit more on valvetrane and got a hydraulic roller setup and mild hydraulic roller cam... the bigger the cam the worse your mileage will be

 

Kerrmydog,

I am interested to hear if someone has run that setup on there desk top dino. The thing is all the 514+ motors that I have seen on the boards are all built as hot rod motors. They have all had big and bigger cams and running hirer compression than a regular grade pump gas can handle. This includes the Ford crate motors. I read one post a while ago by some one who had a big motor but on the dino his torque numbers were not much higher than the ones forecast for my project. I am forecast to make good torque from idle through 5000 then things start to fall off. I don’t think this motor will spend much time above 4500.
Performer 3766 intake
8.5:1 comp ratio some head work new hardened seats installed and 2.19 intake and 1.76 exhaust stainless valves from Ferraffice
RV cam from Eddlbrock 2167 duration 194/204 and lift of .460/.480
Lunati cam 61600 duration 207/213 lift 503/535 just a little bigger than Eddelbrock
Converted to Harlandsharp roller rockers.
MSD all the way box/dizzy/coil
Headers - TriY
The thing people have told me about slipping torque converters made me by a TCI 443630 that is a low speed stall. I hope it helps with mileage. This sim was run with the Eddlbrock cam with a duration of 194/204 and lift of .460/.480
RPM HP / Torque
2000 196 / 515
2500 242 / 508
3000 287 / 502
3500 326 / 489
4000 353 / 463
4500 358 / 418
I hope some on who has built a big cube motor for torque will give some feed back.
Bill

 

hey bill, that cam doesnt even have as much lift as stock- stock is .487- id look for something in the low 500's for lift, and around 200 intake duration

 

darrin1999,
Yes I haven't looked at what the stock cam should be. I was going by outher peopls recomdatons on using the Eddlbrock RV cam. The Lunati cam 61600 duration 207/213 lift 503/535 just a little bigger than Eddelbrock. I am hoping it will inprove torque numbers.
Bill

 

yep that lunati cam would be a heck of a lot better than that edelbrock. the lift is where you get your torque, the duration is where you get your horsepower.