Alright I'm ready to buy a new set of springs for the front of my 56 F-100. I am going to be using 235/75R15's on 15X7 rims (kinda tall and wide). I wanted to lower about 2", so I was going to go with reverse eyes, but would prefer to buy the "short and smooth springs" from mid-fifty which lower 3", but I think would be a better ride. I need to know if a 3" drop from stock height, with these wheels/tires is going to cause big problems with tire clearance, especially when turning....
I dont want to dish out the cash for these springs without having a pretty good idea of what the effect is going to be. Unfortunately I never measured the stock clearance before I disassembled the front end, so I cant be of much help to myself at this point. If anyone can lead me in the right direction it would be awesome. Thanks!

Mike

 

Mike, I don't have a 56, I've got a 48, but here are some observations. 3 to 5 inches of drop is common, obtainable by several methods. Very little is said about fender interference at these drops, which leads me to beleive it's not a problem. Your tire selection is not very wide, so no problem there. My 48 is currently dropped 3" in the front, with 225/70r15's on 7" wheels, and has plenty of clearance lock to lock. I'm planning on slightly lower and don't foresee any problems. On another forum I saw a truck with clearance problems, but the running boards were only a couple of inches off the ground. That's about 12" of drop.

 

My '52 is mocked up with a 6" drop and a 6" channel. I am running F2 fenders, but with the stock 16" rims and 6.50 tires I can still turn them OK.



At least it looks like I can with everything just clamped together. I guess I won't know for sure until I get it mounted correctly.
CHAZ

 

My 56 has those springs and a 2" dropped axle with no tire clearance problems. Tire clearance will be more dictated by wheel offset rather than drop, there's a lot of room under the fenders.

 

Mike,
If youv'e got the tires and rims on, take and turn them full lock in both directiions and take some measurements, subtract the 3" drop you are contemplating and you'll know if you have a problem. If you don't have the exact tire and wheel combo you might be able to add some tempered hardboard or cardboard templates to you current set to mock up the difference in size/offset. Then take your measurements to the temolate.

 

Thanks everyone, I've been looking around at other galleries with various levels of drop and different wheel and tire combos, and I think I should be fine. I originally planned to keep stock height when I removed everything from the front end, but I think that 3" will get the look I want. Too bad I didnt decide to lower before I disassembled the whole steering/suspension so that I could take some measurements. I also contacted the people at mid-fifty and they didnt anticipate a problem either. Thanks for the feedback!

Mike

 

If you want a more centered in the wheelwell appearance you might want to go with the down and forward springs and extended draglink while you're changing springs. It gives a much better appearance. The 56 front fenders are already visually front heavy and it exagerates the stock offcentered look especially when you lower the front end. When you see the difference, you'll be glad you did it.

 

Thanks AX. I've seen them and thought about it.
What do spring shims accomplish by changing the angle of the axle, and are they necessary to use?
Mike

 

If you use the dropped and forward spring yes you will need at least one set of wedges possibly two if you are going to be doing a lot of high speed cruising. By tipping the top of the axle back you increase caster angle. Caster is what makes the front end want to track in a straight line, the same thing that makes the front wheels on a grocery cart go straight and lets you scoot your desk chair across the room in a straight line. It makes highway driving much more pleasant because the truck won't follow every crack in the pavement or will every little bump send you in a different direction. Ford didn't build much caster into the axle, there weren't many 80 MPH highways in the early 50s, and most all roads and farm field were rough anyways.

 

Ok, I understand. Thanks Ax. I'm thinking about putting out the extra money for the extended drag link and going with the down and forwards. I'm sure I will be more pleased with the look everytime I look at it. Mid Fifty sells 2 and 4 degree shims. I guess I will go with the 4 degree. Thanks again,

Mike

 

I gave out some bad info here a week or so back in answer to someone's question on the correct placement of the shims. Mid Fifty's description of the shim placement in the catalog is ABSOLUTELY CORRECT! they go in with the thick end towards the cab to tilt the top of the axle back for more caster angle.
I must have had a brain f**t at the moment I said it was backwards. SORRY to any and all I missled!
That is all, now I return you to your previous postings.