Hey, that's a great diagram! Do you have that in full size? I need to rewire my '54 since sometime in its life it was changed to 12V and the person who did it was NOT an electrical savvy person.

I have the same problem as the original poster. I need to rewire the whole truck. Thread from the dead!!

 

A clearer image of that diagram is found in EARL'S WORLD.

 

Just do it - rewire and convert to 12 volt. Not that tough!

Julie

 

Thanks for the link, that looks great. I will probably get one of those wiring kits from EZwiring.com, Painless, or americanautowire.com to redo the truck. Since it's already 12V, I should just be able to replace the wiring and have it work...

 

Believe me, it's the best thing you will ever do for you and your truck. If you would like, I have some generic wiring diagrams I made in MS power point when I rewired my 51 - they will work on your 54 - or let me put it this way, the way you will rewire will be the same.

I don't know if you have ever used power point, but you can blow these up to look at them, or as you rewire, you could change my wire colors to match your own. You can also add your own custom stuff. When you are done yo have the exact wiring diagram for YOUR truck - invaluable when troubleshooting or adding something.

There are a few samples in my (#1 I think) gallery. If you would like a set, send me a PM with your real e-mail and I'll send them to you.

Julie

 

Julie, you kick ***. A powerpoint presentation of what I need rocks!!

I will PM you.

 

For some reason, I can't PM anybody. Why is this?
Julie, my email is joevitek@nospam.cfl.rr.com

Take out the "nospam." and that is my email.

 

Hi RF,

Glad I checked back here.

You need 25 posts before you can PM folks. I got your friend invitation (and accepted - thanks!) and I'll send the PP file tonight. If for some reason your internet provider has a problem with larger files, and the 3 attachments fall off, send me a return e-mail and I'll split them up!

 

rfpowerdude,

Sounds like Julie has things under control. If you are still considering 6 volt, here's a link to a larger file on George's "Earl's World" site.

http://www.clubfte.com/users/earl/Re...ing%20Diagrams

Good Luck!

 

For what its worth, my opinion is unless you want to hook up some newfangled modern accessories, for me 6 volt is fine. Make sure your generator and starter is rebuilt. Make sure you have 0 gauge cables to go from the battery to the starter and from the battery to the ground point.

I have 6 volts positive ground and a 9 year old battery and my truck started this winter in 5 degree weather... just a thought.

 

There is quite a bit of difference between your circumstances and his though Abe. Yours is done and he is redoing his.

An alternator as opposed to a generator is going to be much more reliable. The 12 volt one wire variety elliminates the need for a regulator. 6 volt switches and motors are becoming less and less available as are RELIABLE 6 volt ignition parts- points/condensers/coils. 6 volt light bulbs are not made in as many varieties so if he wants to install turn signals (or other "newfangled modern accessories") in the same housings as his running and parking lights, it will be almost impossible. He'll have to find double filiment twin post 6 volt bulbs and I've never seen them.

Ford changed their electrical voltage from 6 volt to 12 volt in 1956 for a couple reasons - the most prevelant of which was reliabiltiy.

But also, a 12 Volt system requires HALF the amperage to push the same amount of wattage per "peripheral." So, when you have your heater running, the electric wipers on, the headlights on, (IOW you are driving on a cold rainy night - normal) and expect that poor 35 amp generator to keep up with it, your screwed. A 6 volt heater motor on high will pull close to 15 amps -the wiper motor 10 amps - lights 10 amps. You are close to being on the edge at generator speed (1500 rpm). And below 1500 rpm you WILL be DISCHARGING!

The wire gauge you will have to install is substantially larger in AWG with 6 Volt systems because of the amperage demands. So you can double the cost of your wire and pay for larger fasteners to go with the big wire.

New accessories such as stereo will be very hard to find in 6 volt if at all.

Use up a 6 volt wiper or heater motor - a switch shorts - you'll pay big bucks for NOS or good used original 6V electrical motors and switches.

Burn out a headlight - better be prepared to pay Resto-part house prices for a new one.

Want to pull a trailer - ever? Better convert all it's lights to 6
Volt too.

If you had a reliable 6 volt system, with no extra electrical items, like Abe's there's no need to change it. But since your system isn't reliable and needs to be completely rewired, there's no good reason NOT to convert to 12 volt neg ground.

The proverbial "other side of the coin."

 

Thanks for all the input people (got the files Julie! Thanks!). It is much appreciated. I am going to get a universal harness from EZwiring.com and dive right into this. How hard can it be? If for some reason I screw this up and burn the neighborhood down, I should be fired from my job... being that I am an EE during the day...

 

You know, I'm probably gonna dig my self into ahole here, but I'm with abe. There is absolutely nothing wrong with running 6 volt positive ground. 6 volt batteries are about $50. 6 volt bulbs are available through any parts house, and through our catalogs. They are typically $1 more than 12 volts, and sometimes as much as 3-4 more, but rarely. For the wiring, Concours parts has complete harnesses that are already done for under $200 for the main harness, and around $10-$20 per each additional section, and you only need like five other sections for a 53/4, 4 other sections for a 55. I ran my 53 fire truck 6-volt positive ground the entire time I had it, and never had any trouble. It turned over and fired up everytime (turned the key, waited 10 seconds for the electric fuel pump to make everything primed, pushed the gas once, pulled the choke out about 1/4 of the way, and pushed the start button, turned over about 3 revolutions before she lit right off, and stayed running, even in the coldest of temps). So, if you want it to be original, there aint nothing wrong with staying 6-volt. If you're updating things, like want a newer radio installed or something, then you need to go 12 volt. For all the people that say 6 volt is so bad, and nothing but trouble, I respectfully disagree, and am sorry that you have had bad experiences, you must of dealt with a PO's hack job, because myself, and many others, have never had any troubles staying 6 volt.

 

I'm with Julie on this one. It really comes down to two different applications. If youn are looking to go the purists route with an authentic restore job I say go for the 6 volt system amd keep it all stock including using the old inferior fabric covered wire. Accasional drives on nice sunny days and parades will probably never be a problem.

On the other hand if you want a reliable daily driver with added and now neseassary added accessories and conveniences, it makes no sense at all to try and keep as well as maintain an antiquated 6 volt system. If you are rebuilding and making other changes you might as well go for the convenience and reliability.

Later Folks...

 

Hi Folks,

Ok well if I wasn't clear before let me shorten the response down a bit.

I didn't say 6 volt positive ground was BAD, I said it's obsolete, and incompatible with modern poarts and systems.

Another thing you guys aren't getting - he has to redo his electrical system - your's is complete and functional - there's a big difference between HAVING something old and obsolete that still functions fine, and living with it, and having to start over and INSTALLING SOMETHING THAT IS OBSOLETE AND NOT COMPATIBLE WITH MOST EVERYTHING ELSE.

And to REinstall an obsolete electrical system in something you want to drive or upgrade (as opposed to rigidly restore to original) is not the best of two choices.

As a matter of fact unless you are shooting for 100% original, it's just not very bright. Sorry!