I am ready to change my spark plugs and wires on my 2000 EB with a 5.4 and a few people told me NOT to do this myself.. i am a pritty handy guy and have changes spark plugs before but i hear that thease are difficult to get to and there easy to strip or put in wrong and this will crack the heads??? can someone help me on this?? also what are the BEST spark plugs and wires for this truck.. thanks, dave..

 

They are a real pain to change. I did mine on an '01 a few months before I traded it in. Use the stock motorcraft plugs as the 5.4 is a finicky engine when it comes to plugs. There are no wires, the 5.4 uses coil packs. If you don't have an intermediate level of mechanical knowledge/ability (I'm gusesing you don't b/c you didn't know about the coil packs) and a good set of tools with lots of extensions and elbow joints I would stay away from trying this.

This engine has a plug blowout history, so if you don't do the job to the correct specs and follow the service manual with regard to torque you could have some serious problems down the road. Yes, I'm trying to scare you away form attempting this as it was that big of a pain in the a$$.
I think the dealership charges around $500 to change the plugs but if you can find a mom and pop outfit that will do it for around $250 it's well work the money.

If you do attempt it removing the fuel rail makes it an easier job, although it can be done without taking it out. if you do be careful not to damage the injectors, some will pull out with the rail and others will remain seated. You might also need to replace some injector seals. Also, be careful not to break any of the injector wiring harnesses. The plastic tends to get brittle in high milage cars and the clips will break.
Good luck.

 

well... lol... like i said i usually do things myself... im a pritty handy guy but i am not up to date with the coils.. every vehicle i ever owned had wires.. what is the difference?? and the only reason i am planing on changing the plugs is due to poor fuel milage.. if the dealer wants 500 i am deff going to try myself.. do the coils need replaceing?? lastly you said specific torque.. usually when i did plugs in the past it was as simple as tighting them but not to much, its not the same in this engine? thanks for the help..

 

The coil packs get rid of the need for a rotating distributor. Instead of the distributor the engine computer sends a signal to the coil packs which then fire the spark plugs. These are also called Coil-over-plug or COPs. They won't need to be replaced unles one goes out. if that happens you will know because the car will run like it has a dead cylinder...which it does if one goes out. I never had any problems with the ones on my '01 which had over 100K miles on it when I traded it in. If one does go out it's usually the 3rd or 4th one on the passenger side. Directly over the rear passenger COPs is a coolant line that sometime springs a leak (really only takes a minor drip), drips on those coils and shorts them out.

I don't remember what the torque was on the plugs themselves...it was like 30 inch/lbs or something. Do a seach, I'm sure it's been posted. You might also do a seach on plug blowout. Essentially, the heads only have 4 threads on them for the plugs which is not enough. If you don't torque them down right the plug will strip itself out. Not right away, but more likely after a few thousand miles.

Also, if you have access blow out the top of the engine and around the plugs with some compressed air, that will keep anything from falling into the engine after you pull the plugs.

Have you tried seafoam to help out with your mileage?

 

no... whats seafoam??? also back to the plug torque.. is there a special ratchet i need for this? is it absolutly imperative to do this.. usually when i do plugs i just tighten by feel not to tight but tight enough..

 

Seafoam is a fuel additive and can be added via the break booster line to clean out the internal components. Do a search, there's plenty of info here on how to use it.

You'll need an inch/pound torque wrench for obtaining the proper torque on the plugs. When i did mine I used a Foot/pound wrench thinking I could convert inches to feet...not sure if it holds true that 12 inch/pounds=1 foot/pound in force measurement.

Given all the problems this engine has with plugs, i'd recommend it. However, I'm sure there are plenty that have gone off feel. Just keep in mind that if one of your plugs blows you will have to tear down the engine and replace the head.

 

break booster line??? if its a fuel additive shouldnt it just be added to the tank??

 

You can do either with SeaFoam. It will theoretically clean your injectors when added to your gas tank, and it cleans a whole bunch of carbon buildup when you add it through your brake booster line. You can just pour it right into the line while the engine is running and the vacuum will keep you from spilling or anything. Then kill the engine and let it set for 20 minutes. Start it back up and watch the thick smoke come out of your tail pipe for a few minutes, and you're done.

As for changing spark plugs, there is a huge thread in this forum that will give you more than enough information so you can do this yourself (See link below). Please don't let people scare you away from this job. It's not that hard, it's just different than what people are used to.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...to+spark+plugs

 

thank you for the info... i just dont understand one thing brake booster line?? how does this tie into the rest of the engine systems???

 

The brake booster line provides a vacuum from the engine to the brake booster. When you unhook it, it will suck up whatever liquid you immerse the end of the line in. The suction comes from the engines natural aspiration caused by compression and evacuation of the exhaust. When you immerse the line in seafoam the seafoam goes into the engine through the intake, and into the cylinders; it burns and is then sent out of the cylinder via the exhaust. Seafoam is just petroleum distillate and has a very low combustion point. Your engine will kick and sputter when putting it in, but it will run more smoothly afterward.<O</O

 

ok... i want to try this

1st.. the brake booster line.. attached to the brake pedal?? or the master cylinder..
2nd.. how much or how long do i let the line suck in the seafoam??

 

Do a search for "seafoam", there is a post on here with a detailed procedure. BTW, the brake booster is the big round black piece directly behind the master cylindar. It's got a black hose going into it from the top of the engine.

 

1) Here's a picture for you - The line is going to the check valve. You just use a pair of pliers to get the clamp off and pull the line off the brake booster. Now you're in business!



2) The first time I tried it, I submersed the line in the bottle of SeaFoam. It sucked in 1/2 the bottle in nothing flat and killed the engine just as fast. Then I restarted and poured the rest of the bottle into the brake booster line. They sell 2 sizes of Seafoam. I think the smaller size (use this one) is 16 oz or something. Seafoam says to use less than a full can, but most people (I think) just use the whole thing. Be sure and kill the engine afterwards and let it set for about 1/2 an hour or a little less. That will let it clean and do its thing. I can't stress this last point enough: Be ready for a lot of smoke. I mean a lot. And thick! I wouldn't go driving around while it's doing that, just let it idle in your driveway and rev the engine once in a while until the smoking stops.

 

is this Spark plug issue only with the 5.4L ....i have a 4.6L


seafoam.. I assume you change oil after smoking stops?

 

The Spark Plug isssue is for pre-2003 5.4L only.

If you add the SeaFoam to your crank case then definitely change the oil (I don't think you would see smoke though). It might be a good idea to do it after you add it through a vacuum line, but I don't think it's necessary. The smoking comes out of your exhaust system, it's not like your engine is smoking or anything.