I am adding a/c to my '65 truck and have a good working York compressor. Does anyone know if the FE engines (360/390/428) ever came with this compressor and if so what model car/truck can I scrounge a mounting bracket from?

(also posted on the FTE a/c board). thanks.

 

My Four Seasons parts book says the York came on all "factory" systems from '58 to '82. The Tecumseh was used on early dealer add-ons. I scrounged mine from a '68 pickup, and it will fit my '66, when I get to it. Most evaporators might pose a problem with a 4 speed; the one I have is offset a little to allow the stick to move forward, so look for one like that. The brackets, pulleys etc are standard Ford stuff with Ford p/ns, but are different from the setup on my '66 Bird, although the most essential part, the cast bracket which connects the head and the compressor, is identical.
I'd like to learn what you use for a condenser. The one I got will not fit between the 4-row rad and the hood latch.
Eric

 

I should add: take photograghs and label pieces (especially spacers) as they come off the donor.
Eric

 

Thanks for the info, I'll start looking in the scrapyards. I was planning to mount the compressor on the driver's side since there is a big space there and the alternator is on the pass.side but I need to go look at the stock setup first, I guess.
My underhood pieces are from a '73 Mercedes diesel (which used the York compressor and SAE fittings, not metric). The condenser fits very neatly with the Vintage Air-recommended 3/16" gap between the core and condenser. I mounted it on two pieces of lightweight 1.5" angle stock running from flange to flange. I did have to notch it at the bottom to clear the hood latch braces, and grind about 1/8" off the tongue of the latch release handle.
I don't have a four-core though, nor a shroud, but my truck has never even hinted at running hot with my new rad. It stays on 180 like it's nailed there even in 95 degree temps. May need to add a shroud with the a/c, I'll see.

 

Your best bet will be mid60s to mid70s passenger cars ie: galaxy, LTD, fairlane, torino, ranchero, and such. Good hunting make sure the donor has an FE block to get the right brackets.

 

6t6 merc, does your 4-seasons book give any hints about a/c brackets and parts for a 300-6 with PS? Can't seem to find one with a/c, wondering if the polution pump brackets from a newer 300-6 can be used. I also wonder about the condensor problem. Someone told me to reverse-space my radiator with washers and longer bolts, using a short water pump if clearance. The condensor might fit between the radiator and hood latch then. This might also work on the V8, may be worth measuring this to find out..

 

The catalog doesn't list any brackets, or mounts, etc, but has everything else and has photos of many components. The cover price is $1, but you might get last year's for free from your friendly parts guy, as I did.
I think there's a condenser that will fit perfectly if we can find out what it is. Most later model cars will use a short, wide condenser that would fit under the latch. I know that an aftermarket setup would provide everything, including a modern compressor, but it wouldn't look original. Maybe Vintage Air or another supplier would sell the correct condenser alone.
Eric

 

Charles,
You should be able to find a suitable mount with any 390 family engine; my 67 Mustang came with just the same package. If your junkyard search isn't fruitful, try ebay mustang parts or the vintage mustang forum as there always seems to those parts available.
As far as running your a/c unit without a shroud, good luck. If I was you, I would start pricing one now in your spare time. Currently I am fighting an overheating problem in a Mustang with a 289. Things were great until the a/c and then boilover time. And this is with a 4 core radiator, 6 blade fan, overflow container and a full shroud! It just isn't fair.

Lee
1965 F100 short box styleside

 

I got lucky today and found a '60's T-bird with 390 and York air in the junkyard. Got all the pulleys, brackets, and a nearly new rebuilt alternator for $50. Unfortunately I discovered that my compressor clutch doesn't have the groove in the right place to match the idlers so I guess I'll be paying for the clutch on my next trip.
Also the damper pulley on the '65 is held on not only by 3 small bolts but also by the crank bolt/washer. My engine is a '69(?) 360 which does not retain the pulley that way (hole is bigger and the bolt pattern is slightly larger) so it doesn't fit either. Think I may have a machine shop enlarge the center hole on the "new" '65 pulley and keep my existing damper. Or try and find a later 360/390 with air for the pulley?

I'd be looking for something else wrong (timing, clogged radiator tubes, corroded water pump impeller, etc). Your setup sounds like it should be able to cool anything you can stuff under the hood!

-Charles

 

Charles, there's a discussion going on right now about pulleys on the FE Big Block Forum "Truck vs Car Pulleys" that you might want to get in on.
Eric

 

Thanks, I checked it out. They confirm my observation that a '69 damper/pulley is not the same as a '65.

So I went back to the junkyard with a puller and got the damper from the '65 T-bird, and pulled the compressor clutch pulley too. Home free, right?

Wrong! The "old" ('65) style compressor clutch has the coil built into the pulley and a slip ring, with a brush contact mounted on the compressor. The "new" one (made in 1972) has the coil mounted on the compressor thus eliminating the brush/slip ring. Unfortunately I neglected to get the brush mount. Aaarrgh!
Anyway all the pulleys do line up correctly now, and I just have to make a THIRD trip to get the brush assembly.

But it may be very worn - does anyone know where I can get a new part? Are these ancient compressors still serviced other than seal kits?

 

Four Seasons lists York "Brush" as p/n 35704.
Eric

 

Charles if you end up using that pulley that is held down by the crankshaft bolt make real sure you retorque it correctly. I had a 68 Torino that the bolt was not tightened properly on, it sheared the key for the crank sprocket on the timing chain. The crank contiued to spin while the car coasted to a stop the result was a 1/8" groove where the crank sprocket sits on the crank. The fix was replace the crank and make damn sure the crank bolt was tight next time out.

 

Thanks very much, Eric, that was the right part! The pulley lines up perfectly, belts and idlers installed and tightened and now all I have to do under the hood is hook up the refrigerant hoses.

Cobraguy, thanks for the tip about bolt torques. I used Loctite on all damper bolts, pulley bolts, and fan bolts, for additional peace of mind.

Incidentally, when I removed the heater box from under the dash there was a HUGE mouse nest (about the size of a volleyball) completely blocking the intake. Guess that's why the heat/defrost didn't work so well either!

 

The evaporator (a UN-111HC) was a tight fit but it went under the dash once the old heater came out. I found a shop to crimp the hose ends, put them on with neoprene o-rings and charged the system with R-406A (Autofrost) today. It is working great so far, 37 degrees at the vents on medium and 40 on high, but it was only 76 outside (it was in the low 40's this morning in NW Md. of course, since I now have a/c

Still have to clean up some trim stuff like modifying the glovebox since the evaporator and hoses take up one corner of it, and finish snaking the left air hose behind the instrument panel (this type of thing always takes longer than the actual plumbing). Despite the large overall size of this truck, there is not much room under the dash. I suspect the largest model (King Kool) would not have fit. The wiper motor also tends to interfere with an in-dash evaporator.

Incidentally it stayed firmly at 180 sitting still during all charging and testing, with a new 7-blade flex-fan mounted a good 3" from the radiator, and no shroud. You can really feel the air being pulled through the condenser and radiator, even at idle. I suspect I will need a shroud for real hauling in 90+ temps though.