So now gentlemen, (and ladies if present) those of you who have replaced your injectors before: how long does it take the HPOP rails to completly purge themselves of air? I'm still hearing evidence of air in the rails after driving for two days worth of errands and commuting for a total of about 50 miles. I'll get a miss at light throttle settings right after a long coast and then reapply the throttle with a very light setting, just cruising along in traffic. If I give it more throttle then it clears out and runs on all 8. Or it will miss at idle for a long time. It reminds me of trying to get air bubbles out of a collapsed lifter. You just have to drive it out.
I've been told 50 miles is the bare minimum, and that's if you agressively purge the system. I've seen a few folks post that it took as many as 200 miles to completely purge the rails.
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Scott - FTE moderator
His: 01 F-250 Lariat, 7.3, ZF-6, NV271. A few mods.
Hers: 98 Navigator, 5.4, AT, 4x4, Old.....but still a Lincoln ;-)
Scott, not to sound pompous, I've not done the injector replacement. Here are my thoughts based on Kwikk's post:
Could you suck/syphon the oil out of the HPO rail in the head after removing a plug like the one commonly used for the HPX, or one of the lines. And:
Same for fuel rails at each of rear ports in order to minimize some of the mess after install in evacuating the cylinders?
Just thought these might work to make it a little bit easier or reduce some mess.
On edit: of course I'm referring to doing this before removal of anything from the heads.
I thought of doing that, but there is no way to get all the oil from the HPOP rails. There are these chambers machined into the injectors that hold a lot of oil. When you pull the injectors that oil immediatly falls into the cylinder and you end up having to purge them anyway. So I decided to just pull the rear injectors as they are at the bottom of the slope and let it all drain there.
I made a mess of things because I was inexperienced at this particular job. I would do it again the same way because it's the quickest easiest way to get the job done. What I would do differently is rig some way of holding a small cup upside down over the injector hole to stop any squirting oil from flying out. The cup would stop the oil from squirting up against the air conditioner housing and allow the oil to drip back down into the crankcase.
Trying to hassle with the HPOP and fuel rail plugs IMO just adds to the time, they run down the valley and the backside of the block. You don't have to worry about making a mess as long as you rig a way to stop the flying oil.
Hope this helps y'all. We all can learn from one another's mistakes.
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Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. God and Dog
Scott, it's not that hard to wheel the engine over with a long breaker bar and a 24mm socket.
And Tenn01, that's a good idea, filling the HPOP rails.
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Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. God and Dog
I've been told 50 miles is the bare minimum, and that's if you agressively purge the system. I've seen a few folks post that it took as many as 200 miles to completely purge the rails.
200 miles eh? Ok I'll drive it for a while this weekend and see how it turns out.
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Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. God and Dog
Understood. I think when I have to do mine I will do the same by pulling the rear injector. Because I am anal I will use a syringe and tube and suck out what I can before I proceed. Like I said, this is because I am anal.
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Mike
Silver truck with a hairdryer and sticks. A lot of other less expensive chit too which adds up to expensive.
Get a big one, like a turkey baster. There's a lot of oil in the rails.
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Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. God and Dog
One final note and I will leave you alone. Have you changed your oil?
About 1000 miles ago, using Mobil 1 Delvac 5-40. Nice and clean inside.
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Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. God and Dog
Did you not have diesel fuel sitting on top of your pistons? I would be very concerned about that since rings are not totally waterproof if you will.
Not enough to worry about. The fuel rail doesn't hold much and it got mixed in with what fell into the cylinders which was then blown back out within a few minutes when I turned the engine over.
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Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. God and Dog
Not enough to worry about. The fuel rail doesn't hold much and it got mixed in with what fell into the cylinders which was then blown back out within a few minutes when I turned the engine over.
Kwik, what a great write up. I couldn't have done it without you.
This is my first post and I have replaced injectors 1 & 8 with rebuilds from DieselCare in Memphis. I also pulled all the injectors and replaced all of the gaskets on all injectors.
I put it back together and it took a couple cranks to get it started. I let it run for probably about 5 minutes, then shut it down to finish putting my tools away in preparation of a test drive. It started back up and seemed to run a little rough, similar to the way it ran before the injector work.
So, I get about 100 or 200 yards down my street and the truck just dies. I coast over to the side of the street where I couldn't get it started again that night. The next day, 7-9-08, I put 2 new CostCo batteries in for more cranking. It did start but only for about 2 minutes, I went around to close the hood to drive it home and it died again.
Is this related to air in the fuel or oil lines? I saw that one must drive the air out over 50 to 200 miles but I can't seem to get out of my neighborhood.
Kwik, what a great write up. I couldn't have done it without you.
This is my first post and I have replaced injectors 1 & 8 with rebuilds from DieselCare in Memphis. I also pulled all the injectors and replaced all of the gaskets on all injectors.
I put it back together and it took a couple cranks to get it started. I let it run for probably about 5 minutes, then shut it down to finish putting my tools away in preparation of a test drive. It started back up and seemed to run a little rough, similar to the way it ran before the injector work.
So, I get about 100 or 200 yards down my street and the truck just dies. I coast over to the side of the street where I couldn't get it started again that night. The next day, 7-9-08, I put 2 new CostCo batteries in for more cranking. It did start but only for about 2 minutes, I went around to close the hood to drive it home and it died again.
Is this related to air in the fuel or oil lines? I saw that one must drive the air out over 50 to 200 miles but I can't seem to get out of my neighborhood.
Thanks in advance for the help.
It sounds like something electrical came loose. I'll look around for that other thread that is mentioned.
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Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. God and Dog
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purge the system. I've seen a few folks post that it took as many as 200 miles to completely purge the rails.
Not enough to worry about. The fuel rail doesn't hold much and it got mixed in with what fell into the cylinders which was then blown back out within a few minutes when I turned the engine over.
