I recently bought a 66 F100 from a guy at work. It runs,, and needs some TLC. I was planning on sandblasting the body piece by piece (since money is an issue). The truck has the 8ft bed with the 352 engine (yes it runs). The body is in good shape with just small rust spots. I bought the truck for $400, and will pick it up on Saturday.

The interior needs to be ripped out and started from new. I plan on sandblasting the body and was wondering if anyone had any tips for sandblasting it. My dad told me to use regular play sand, but will have to fill in the skin with a real light coat of bondo. I was wondering if anyone can suggest a decent primer that will do the job. I don't have anything to put the primer on with so this will be a step by step process.

I hope to get it to drivable status to drive back and forth to work in a few months. In Jan we deploy out to Afghanistan (again), and will probably drive the truck to my Dad in FL and let him play with it for the year while I am gone.

I am open to any suggestions, directions, or websites. Thanks.

 

dquack
Make sure the guy that is going to sand blast your sheet metal has enough insurance to cover him from the law suit your file after it warps all your sheet metal from being sand blasted by him. If he says "it won't warp" get that in writing because you'll need it when you discover it does warp.

If you MUST blast your sheet metal at least go with media blasting. That'll not warp the panels if it's done correctly.

Also don't opt for chemical stripping, thet gets in the places where the metal seams are laminated and 12 or 18 months after you paint it the paint comes off along the seams that are laminated and hiding the stripper that would not flush out or become neutralized. . . .

http://Autobody101.com is a good site for body repair tips and insights. I am familiar with some of the personnel there and they'll tell you the square skinny. . . .

FBp

 

The sandblasting was going to be done by myself. I need a cheap alternative to sandblasting then if that is the case.

 

dquack, Pete always offers great advise. I don't think you have enough time to get done what you want in the time frame that you have. Drop down to the Paint and Bodywork forum further down the page. Carlene and the crew can give you better tips for your truck.

You are talking about a 2-3 year long project blasting it down to bare metal, and can probably find enough to do to it before you leave. You might want to get a good cover for it and start on it when you get back.

John

 

Sand it. Blasting is like taking a small hammer and tapping on the sheetmetal for hours on end. by the time you get the paint off, you've distorted the surface. its great for things like the cab floor, corners of the bed floor, the frame, the suspension, the block, ect. For body work, its a bad idea. Media blasting is better, but much slower, andexpensive. It can still streach and distort the bodywork in the hands of anyone but a profesional. Its also very slow work.

A good orbital sander and some effort can strip the truck to metal in roughly the same amount of time, but with less risk of damage, and less prep work needed to get it paintable. More than likely, you don't need to strip the truck to metal, only down to a clean layor of paint. a sander gives you that option, a blaster doesn't.

As for primer, a good rattle can of Krylon primer works great. (it will probably take a case of cans) I personaly stay away from Duplicolor brands, as they seem to break down in UV light, but thats my prefrence. Anything listed as a "sandable primer" is best, as it fills small imprefections and lets you sand the surface extra flat before final painting.

 

I have very limited bodywork experience but I think after initial sanding/ stripping you shoul first use a primer/sealer that will not breathe and allow moisture to get in and attack the surface (experience talking here). These primers are available in foo-foo cans but expect to pay $15-$28 PER CAN!! A cheap primer will work temporarily but keep it dry because eventually it will rust from the surface out.

 

I'm taking an auto body class at my local adult school. I have started to remove the paint from my 64 cab using a 4.5" round plasic disc on a electric angle grinder. The disc has 1/2" long close nit plastic fingers. It removes the paint and doesnt scarch the metal. You will need to go to a body shop supply store to buy the disc.

 

RickyD is right.
Epoxy Primer sealer is impervious & is best for a substrate because you can apply anything from "tiger hair" Bondo to feather-fill or even hi-build primer surfacers to it.
The key is whether you use primer surfacer or primer sealer and FWIW epoxy primer sealer produces the best bang for the buck and WILL NOT RUST THRU.

All Primers have the ability to produce a surface for other strata to adhere to. The primer surfacers are porous or pervious while the primer sealers are not porous or are impervious. IOW, moisture & 02 can not reach the metal to start oxidization thru' the primer-sealers like it does with primer-surfacers, THUS NO RUSTING. I've gone 5 or 6 years with PPG Epox primer sealer on clients projects and they did not rust at all. I did have to scuff & re-prime, but hey after 5 years WTH?

FBp