I definately don't want more than 800hp, I think I want to shoot for 600, maybe 700, maybe...

I want it to last for several years without requiring anything but basic maintenance.

And as far as money goes, I'd like to keep it under $5000.

With all that in mind, what combos would you recommend?

And sorry if I wear on anyone's patience.

 

I would go witha 30 over stock block, Eagle rotating assebly with a 4.3 stroke. You would be a 521ci. I would use a flat top with a DOVE or D3 head, home ported. I would cam it for low to mid range power. I would use a Stealth intake, an 850 or 950 carb...You can do that for about 3500 to 4000 in parts intake to oilpan. You will need to add machining costs.

I would use:
ARP 1547903 OIL PUMP DRIVE SHAFT KIT
ARP 1554203 FRD429-460 12PT HD STUD KIT (Optional)
ARP 2551001 FORD CAM BOLT KIT 460
Crane 1374416 RCKR ARM 1.7 CHVY PK/16
Edelbrock 7830 TIMING CHAIN SET FORD
Edelbrock 8876 POLISHED, 8866 non polished water pump. Or use reman stock.
FelPro 1018 HEAD GSKT PERMATORQ/BLUE
Holley 12860 12-860 CHROME FUEL PUMP
Melling MM84 OIL PUMP WITH A 84CS4 pickup
MR Gasket 5839 ULTRA-SEAL INTAKE GSK FORD
Pioneer 872017 FORD HARMONIC BALANCER
Scat 521 Ratating Kit with Hbeam Rods, Or an Eagle 521 Kit with Hbeam Rods
Weiand 8021 FORD 429W-460 STEALTH DUAL PLANE INTAKE

Use your iron heads and go with a matched valve train for the cam.

Do your machine work on the block, test and measure everything 5 times, choose a nice 850 carb, get your dizzy recurved, and rock and roll.

If your going to be revving on it, go with main studs, and consider a windage tray. MPG-Heads has a nice tray that is inexpensive.

That should be a good idea to start with. A rotating assembly will genearlly go for about $1600 to $2000 depending on what you choose as a brand, what type of piston, and where you buy. You dont need a steel crank for your application.

Larry.

 

another option istead of going with main studs is a halo type main girdle, and I prefer the canton unit, they also make a nice windage tray that is designed to be used with that girdle (the girdle is already drilled and tapped for the windage tray.) I am running one on a 2 bolt D9TE block at over 800hp, and I am not afraid to hit hte 8000 rpm limiter, went approx 60-70 passes last year, no signs of cap walk, no cracks anywhere, and the bearings still looked really good at tear down.
there is maybe a few things I would suggest diffferntly but for the most part that will work.

 

When you say "flat top" you mean the top of the pistons right?

When you say "home ported", do you mean have the porting done locally?

You was talking about "ARP 1554203 FRD429-460 12PT HD STUD KIT (Optional)
" when you said "use main studs if you plan on revving it" right?

How exactly do I find a "matched valve train for the cam"?

What do you mean "get your dizzy recurved"?

What is a windage tray?

And monsterbaby, you said "there is maybe a few things I would suggest diffferntly", what are your opinions?

Thanks again everyone...

 

Yes, by flat top he means flat top pistons as opposed to dished pistons. Home ported means you, a die grinder and a lot of hours and iron dust. Scott's member page lays it out really well on how to port them and it's not terribly difficult to do, it's just very time consuming. Most local shops don't have the first clue on what to do with a Ford head and chances are you'll wind up paying a lot of money for an inadequate port job.

The stud kit # that you listed is for head studs (that replace the head bolts), not main studs. Main studs hold your main bearing caps. If you get a main support girdle like monsterbaby suggested chances are it will come with ARP main bolts or studs.

Valve train will depend on the kind of cam you use. A roller cam will need different springs than a flat tappet cam. When you choose a cam there will often be specific recommendations that come with it as to valve train components.

Recurving your "dizzy" will give you the right amount of timing advance at the RPM where you need it. Scott J (the one with the head site) can do this for around $100 I believe and will set it up according to your engine.

A windage tray keeps the "wind" from the spinning crank from foaming up the oil and reduces spray in your oil pan.

 

Every cam, from every cam manufacturer is designed with lobe lift rates, and start/end rates that live particularly well under a very specific spring. And the cam lift can push you to coil bind quickly when adding a larger cam, so your valvetrain will be best if you follow the cam manufacturer's recomended springs and installed height. Your head shop will do the work, you give them the parts and the specs on your cam card. For your local head shop this is easy. The home porting is something you need to look at Scatt's website for hints/tips/pictures. It WILL BE the best money you spend on this build! You do not need head studs if your staying mild, and from the sounds of your questions....you should slow down and do a whole bunch of reading on Scotts site, this site, and maybe buy a book on basic engine rebuilding. You dont want to build a bomb........KABOOM! Take your time, ask questions, and let the experiance here help you get'er done!!!!! Do it right the first time, its way cheaper in the long run...even though it costs more up front.

 

my changes are not that serious, but since you asked.
First I don't like the edelbrock timing chain set nearly as well as the FRPP setup.

Next the suggestion was flat tops for either DOVE or D3 heads, you don't want flat tops with DOVE heads expecially on a stroker setup unless you want to run nothing but race gas. (you will be way over 11:1 comp)

I would suggest instead of the holley chrome fuel pump which is lotsa bling but not that good IMHO and that comes from running them in the past. I would suggest going with an electric pump.

Don't go with the Crane chev 1.7 rocker arm the geometry doesn't work out right, and you will be losing valve lift first from the fact that it's .03 less ratio, and second even though the BBC, and BBF rockers are close they aren't exact so you can't get the proper geometry setup. Go with a set of rockers that are intended for the BBF. Cranes work really well or you can run FRPP blues (which actually are the crane golds with a different color and sold by ford instead)

last thing, I am not real sure on the edelbrock water pump, I think that they should stick to intake manifolds

 

monsterbaby

If you don't recommend flat tops, what type of piston do you recommend?

Any specific electric fuel pumps? Also, are electric fuel pumps traditionally controled by a computer, or do they just continously run?

If anyone else has any suggestions, I'd appreciate them.. and thanks again.

 

it's not that I don't recommend flat tops, it's that I don't recommend flat tops with DOVE heads. Typical flat tops with DOVE heads, the piston down in the bore .010 which is as far as you will want it to get quench, and on a 521 stroker will net you a 11.98:1 comp ratio which is a lot high for any type of pump gas.
Electric fuel pumps are not controlled by a computor, and you can go as mild or as wild as you choose. I ran a holley red pump on my last race truck and it worked pretty good but I don't think it's enough to feed a bigger stroker. A holley black, or step up to a better quality pump would be my suggestion, I personally went with a mallory procomp 250 pump, and a BG regulator but that would be over kill on most engines. Aeromotive makes a decent street rod pump that would feed this engine pretty good excecially if you use a good bypass style regulator, and there are other options. depending on what you want just look through some of the catalogs, and if you see one you like then ask about it.

 

I knew that's what you meant, but what type of piston would you recommend with DOVE or D3 heads and the engine build fordtrkpuller submitted? Keeping in mind I want to use high octane pump gas...

Also, out of curiousity, will I still be using the stock ignition computer that's already in my truck, or should I get something from MSD or something? (I plan on using all new MSD electronics) Or will I use anything at all?

 

ok a dished piston with a 22cc dish on the DOVE heads with the piston left .010 in the hole would give you a 10.7:1 compression, and a flat top with 8cc valve reliefs and the D3VE heads will yeild a 10.2:1 compressio which both would work very well.
Stock computor will work ok, but in a performance application I like the MSD stuff, and I would suggest using the MSD 6al because it has a build in rev limiter which is a very nice feature to have.

 

Hey guys, it's been a while since I lasted visited/posted on this topic.

Me and dad are going to be tearing out the 460 within a couple of weeks. We plan on tearing it apart down to the block, and then haveing the block acid-dipped to clean it up and have it checked for cracks and whatnot.

Is there anything specific we should know about before tearing it apart? I read somewhere (I think on Summit Racing website's big block shootout article) that when tearing a 460 down, to hold onto these tapered oil plugs because they're hard to replace if lost, and aftermarket ones actually inhibit oil flow. Or something to that effect...

Also, something I just thought of...
This truck (the junk one with the 460 that we're taking out) supposedly was put in the junk yard because the previous owner was driving it when all of a sudden he lost all of his oil (I don't know what happened exactly). Supposedly he imediately stopped the truck, and that no damage was done to the engine from lack of oil...after tearing off the oil pan and pump, he decided he was tired of messing with it and sold it to the junkyard. This is what the junkyard owner said, which is an old childhood friend of dads, so I'm pretty sure we can trust what he said was true.

However, is there anything we should watch for or check for when we get the block cleaned? Anything at all?

Thanks again for your guy's time and patience with my obvious n00bishness, lol...

 

Hey guys, I haven't gotten a reply yet to my last post, so I figured I would bump the topic back to the top of the list.

 

I have never had trouble getting those tapered plugs from my machine shop but maybe i am just lucky and now I can't ask him because it looks like I am going to have to find a new machine shop as the guy that ran it had a stroke a month ago and they arn't sure if he is going to make it back. (that just stinks cause he was very meticulas and I trusted him).
As to the oil starving issue, just have them measure everything and check that none of the mains spun in the bore. That can ruin a block almost as fast as a broken rod.

 

Alrighty, thanks a much!