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'92 Ranger 3.0L Not Firing -Need HELP have work tomorrow!!

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Old 01-26-2006, 11:36 PM
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Exclamation '92 Ranger 3.0L Not Firing -Need HELP have work tomorrow!!

'92 Ranger 3.0L V6 Fuel Injected, second owner w/ 315,000km

It'll start (after 15min+ of cranking), then die.
It won't start.
It'll start, i'll gun it, it'll die.
It's died 2-3 times will driving, then bomb started again.

Ive just changed the fuel filter, it was really clogged


I have spark because if I get the truck running and let it "warm up" abit, it'll run fine and strong with no problems.

I dont think its the fuel pump, because i can hear it prime, plus fuel pumps arent iffy when they want to work right? they either die or run?

I dont have a code checker, nor do i think a fuse is blown. Im stumped, but do you all really agree it might also be a timing belt??

no black smoke, the eninge light will come on if it does a highway die and will come on then off when i crank the engine(normal?) i havent noticed any strange noises other then a higher pitched whine, that was after an hours worth of effort trying to get it running. like i said the filter was just changed and the pump makes its priming whine.

Maybe injecter?? the actual lines?

I'll check spark plugs but im not sure what to look for
 
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Old 01-26-2006, 11:50 PM
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I think you need to borrow or buy a fuel pressure gauge. Your problem has to be with fuel delivery or ignition. Does the 3.0 have a fuel pressure regulator? Look for a round silver thing on the fuel rail with a vacuum line on top. If it's there, pull the vac line off and see if there is any fuel in the line. If there is the regulator is bad.

You really need to scan the computer to see if there are any codes stored. There is a really good thread on how to check codes with either a multimeter or a paper clip in the tech info thread at the top of this forum. Check it out and try it.
 
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Old 01-27-2006, 12:25 AM
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When it dies, you really need to try to determine if it's lacking spark or fuel. And yes, do pull codes as there could be info of value in solving this. On the fuel pump, they have been known to operate intermittantly, sometimes quitting when they are warm and then working when they cool. You indicate that you can hear the F/P build pressure when you cycle the key but does it do this when you are experiencing the problem? You mention that you have spark, but are you sure you have it when you are having the problem? This is going back to my first sentence. Determining which is lacking will greatly simplify your diagnostics.

*You don't have a timing belt on a 3.0 so that can be dropped from the list. If you had a timing chain problem (such as jumped), your symptoms would be much different. You can also forget the plugs for now, since you indicate that when it does run it runs fine. Injector (meaning just one)? Naw, that would cause a missfire. The actual lines? Naw, because you indicated that when it does run it runs fine.
 

Last edited by CowboyBilly9Mile; 01-27-2006 at 12:34 AM.
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Old 01-27-2006, 11:28 AM
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As mentioned you need to take 2 minutes to pull the trouble codes.

I would'nt be surprised if a code 118 came up "Engine coolant temp sensor-signal voltage is too high."

If the ECT is telling the computer the engine is warmed up when it's actually stone cold, it will be hard to start.
 
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Old 01-27-2006, 06:49 PM
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aight i guess i really have to pull codes, i figured this was going to be easier then this
 




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