Hi all,

Got the call from the local FORD dealer...and almost fell to the floor with the long list of problems with my NEW/USED 2003 F250 SD SC SWB XLT V10 Auto 4x4 3.73s with 88,400 miles.

Went in for the 90,000 mile maintenance:

1. Upper and lower ball joints need replacing = $1100 parts + $615.00 labor
2. Auto 4x4 hubs stripped and vacuum acuator need replacing = (price included in ball joints price)
3. Rear u-joints (2 ea) = $40.00 ea + $150.00 labor
4. 4 wheel alignment = $49.95
5. Brakes front and rear need replacing = $560.00 total OBTW...I'll do the brakes myself...at half the cost with better quality after market parts.

Shouldn't the upper/lower ball joint replacement also include the 4-wheel alignment??? I mean...

Plus the normal stuff in the 90,000 mile service (fuel filter, air filter, trans flush, transfer case flush, oil change, cooling flush).

My concern is with #1, 2, & 3. Doesn't that seem like a lot of $money$??? I priced some upper and lower ball joints and they were only $158.00 for all four of them.

Any dealer folks out there??? Maybe you can give your expertise here...

Need your help here folks!!! Any input...Thanks!

biz

 

Seems outlandish to me but the alignment price seems to be OK. Had mine done today for that exact same price.

Item 1 - at $100/hr, which is probably high, they would be estimating over six hours to do the ball joints. Seems like a pretty long time even if it includes chasing parts.

Item 2 - This could be contributing to the high labor rate in itme 1 but I suspect that I over estimated the labor rate. Still seems like alot of time to do this work.

Item 3 - $150.00 to replace two sets of U-joints. Unl4ess there is some new fangled, more difficult to get off, way they've started using to attach u-joints to a drive shaft, this is awfully high. I would say no more than an hour to do this and probably not that long.

Nothing that needs doing seems to be that difficult. Why not tackle it all by yourself. If you can do the brakes, you can certainly do the rest of it, sans the alignment.

 

Depends on whats stripped, I can only reply on the hub part of repairs had mine replaced by ford dealer 4 times, each time between $400-$475.00. I would do them yourself and forget the stockers most guys here swear by the Warn Premiums and I have to agree. My 5th set i did myself in 1/2 an hour (never did them before) with the Warns and they are great. Part # 38826 set, cost between $165.00 low $225.00 high. I got mine from Amazon.com $165.00 with free shipping arrived within 4 days in excellent shape.

 

Try this link, heck of a price. The local stealership wanted almost $2k to replace the balljoints on my truck so I quickly told them no thanks and ended up doing the job myself, wasn't too bad. I found this link after I had already replaced mine. The joints I bought are from Napa, much better quality than factory and they also have grease fittings. Scroll down the page about mid way and on the right side look for 4WD Ball Joint Kit.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=214083

 

Biz
Remeber there are some special tools involved with doing it yourself.Nothing that you can't rent or find.
The price is high though on balljoints.
Rich

 

i am curious, is there any reason why that balljoint kit wouldnt fit an 03? from what i understood they were the same front end, am i wrong?

 

Here are some more pics.

Bare housing with knuckle and axle removed.


Axle with new seals installed.


Knuckle with new Moogs pressed in.


Perf Friction Rotor. Suweet.


And nearly done.

 

When I replaced my ball joints I put a 90 degree angle grease fitting in the upper joint because it will be next to impossible to get a grease gun on it once the axle is installed. Nice looking rotors, too bad they don't stay that pretty.

 

I actually put a plug in the upper because I wasn't sure about the clearence with the u joint. I did that after the pic was taken. I think I will be able to put the 90* Zerk when I need to grease it. Yeah, I wish the rotors would stay looking that good.

 

Fat Diesel, do you happen to know if that tool would work for inner axle seals as well? I'm about to tackle that project and was wondering what type of driver would be needed. Thanks

 

They actually go on with your hands. It is a press fit, but barely. Also make sure you have a nice pair of "external" snap ring pliers. Some have been able to find a auto parts store that will rent you a ball joint press tool that will work or even loan it to you. I was unable to find one, so I had the machine shop press them.

 

Great info Guys! I appreciate all the GREAT advice...and those pics are perfect!

However, is it Standard Operating Procedure (SOP) to replace the outer axle seals when doing the ball joints? Or is it just a preference?

biz

 

A friend of mine with a 4X2 SD paid $460 at an independent shop for his ball joints, the greasable kind, in the Washinton, DC area. Said there were four SDs and Excursions in for the job that day.

 

Fat, just to be clear, are we both speaking of the axle seal inside the pumpkin?



...I don't mean to hijack the thread... sorry.

 

Hmmm. Good question. The old ones weren't bad looking, but you do need them to seal to have the vacuum operated hubs to switch. I would say it's SOP.