1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Best heads for Flathead V-8?

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Old 10-29-2005, 01:20 PM
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Best heads for Flathead V-8?

Okay, I know a lot of this may be in the eye of the beholder so to speak...and I know (or think I do) that aluminum heads probably don't really add much besides looks to a steet driven flat motor...and I know I could probably did this out in the search function...but since I've been out of town to Katrina and Rita and Wilma (I work for a untility co.) and since I'm getting a message urging me to participate and post I've been thinking about aluminum heads for my flatty. Cuz they're pretty. No charge for the terrible structure run on lead in sentence - or this one either for that matter!

What do you folks think about the Offy or Eldebrock heads that are currently available new? I've been watching eBay and any period heads that come up are seldom a "deal" and probably have been machined too many times anyway. New heads are available and from the eBay prices not that bad a deal and, gosh darn it, they do look spiffy. My engine is a 51 8BA 239 that will have about a 30 thousandths overbore and (if I can find one) a 4" crank. Will run a reasonable street cam (what we used to call 3/4 race) and I'm open to suggestions on that issue too. Been told that Lunati still made a good street cam for the flathead v-8. Manifold is a two pot Edmunds that will run a pair of Ford/Holley ECG carbs using a progressive linkage and will probably end up running a MSD ready to run dizzy as I can never seem to get together with my machinist buddy to finish my cut down Chevy dizzy project. Will use Reds headers through Smithy duallys. While we're at it...what is the wisdom on head bolts versus head studs for a street motor?

Thanks in advance for the advice and it's good to be home - hope to get some time to pull wrenches in the very near future!

Oilleaks
 
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Old 10-29-2005, 01:58 PM
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This is a 400jr Cam Unless you've driven a "Cammed Up' motor they can be a little touchie: http://media.putfile.com/400jr-sound

Got some more that I have to find.

As far as the heads go, what ever you want to spend.
 
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Old 10-29-2005, 03:33 PM
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No personal experience, but this is what I've read by guys who know their stuff. Within the last few years Offy heads have a reputation for poor casting quality control. Combustion chambers seem to be all over the place volume-wise.

I've heard better things about Edelbrock heads. Either will take some time to make them fit for optimum performance. Don't plan to bolt them on and go without checking to make sure they're planed level and that combustion areas are equal in size and have the req'd clearance for the pistons you're running. Most street engines want .050" between piston and head when assembled with a gasket. Clay to check.

If money is no object I'd go with Navarro heads.

I agree with the MSD stuff. New Mallory has QC problems as well.

Head bolts vs. studs. Depends how often you will be pulling the heads. The guys that run studs like them because they cause less wear to threads in the block. Plus tightening a nut/washer torques down better (finer adjustment) than a bolt. Bolt guys like the ability to pull a head without having to pry it off 24 studs. Convenience.
 
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Old 10-29-2005, 07:27 PM
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As my name implies, Ive been around flatheads awhile; like almost 50 years.

Unless you absolutely MUST have finned heads I wouldnt waste my money. Too many threads over many forums have resulted in getting the word out that in a small displacement engine you will actually lose HP. Many builders, many dyno runs. And as mentioned QC sucks on the new stuff from Edel and Offy.

Instead get a pair of stock 52-3 EAB heads. Spend a few $$ doing a cleanup mill of up to .050; they will still clear a .365" lift Schneider cam. BUT always clay, Ford chamber size tolerance specs were all over the place. The EAB flows better than most aftermarket except for a few big buck offerings.

For appearance get a die grinder and remove all the casting ID's, name, etc. Paint them a contrasting color to the block and add chrome acorn nuts over the BOLTS. I build with a red block and gray heads and a polished intake. Really stands out in a crowd of finned heads. Fins are like Chebbys, everybody has them!
 
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Old 10-30-2005, 04:22 AM
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Use new Sharp heads. Much better quality control.

400 Jr cam
 
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Old 10-30-2005, 04:37 AM
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like mtflat said offy is the walmart brand of parts the company went form top notch to junk.
 
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Old 10-30-2005, 08:58 AM
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Thanks for the input gents - I knew it was there for the asking! I'm sorry to hear of the quality control problems with the "affordable" aluminum heads but glad to hear that the iron stockers can be made to run just fine. Will probably go that route in the interest of time, dollars and not being able to drop 8 bills on a set of heads.

286 Merc...you mention a Schneider cam...any thoughts on what particular cam runs good for the street? Will mostly cruise in this truck and may (once in a while) pull a small (light) pop up type camper to the track when the weather is nice (not too HOT). I remember Schneider cams from years ago - to be honest didn't even think of them for the flatty. Are they as particular about valve springs as some of the folks selling Isky cams? Or do those folks just like to sell springs too?

How do the acorn BOLT (I got it) covers work? Are they a press fit or do you secure them with a little glob of "acumpucky" of some kind?

My block is also red and I've had the intake powder coated charcoal gray with a powder clear coat on top - adds a nice sparkle that is low maintenance. Matches the gray ceramic coating on the headers pretty close so could probably to the heads to match - not sure how the powder reacts to heat but should be okay as long as I don't get the motor too hot.

Thanks for the rapid feedback!
 
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