Ok so I just picked up my shims from 4wheel Parts in Parma Ohio
and they are 2" wide. I asked the guys there and they said that's
fine and I just need to bore the center hole out a little bit and put
them on. So I'm asking you guys cause I didn't install the shims
on the back of my truck (so I have no experience with this) is this
size right? I thought they made 3" wide shims don't they?

I'm hoping for a quick reply cause I need to get these things on this
morning so I can get some fire wood and I will need the 4 wheel
drive where I'm going. These are front axle 3 degree shims by the way.

 

I found a place online called 4crawler and they make custom
shims but according to them the standard shim width is 2" that
just strikes me as odd considering the springs are 3" wide.

Should I have ordered custom shims maybe at 3" wide?
I wish I knew more about this stuff.

 

Most shims are going to be a little narrower because they're made universal and all the Chevy springs are narrower than ours, I think 2.5 or 2.25" wide. 2" wide shim under a 3" wide spring isn't something I'd really care to do but at the same time I don't think it'll hurt anything, especially since they're such a shallow angle. Are they steel or aluminum?

 

*hangs head* they're aluminum... I know I know
But I just need to get the angle right for this weekend.
Like I said in my other post I just made a nice fat chunk
of change working on some freelance stuff. So I'll be ordering
the rest of my crossover stuff and I'll also be getting some custom
3" wide steel shims from 4 crawler. So these are just temporary
for this weekend. With your truck so high how did you get your
front driveshaft angle correct? Did you have to lower the transfercase?
Did you weld some new perches on at a different angle?

 

I would tell you that you don't want to know but I know you do, so here ya go: https://www.ford-trucks.com//forums/...d.php?t=358295

Well you already know what we think about aluminum shims, especially on the front axle. That being said go ahead and use them for now but make sure you get them replaced with the custom steel shims soon. It IS dangerous to be running aluminum up there. Torque the crap out of the u-bolts and take sockets with you on your journey. After a little while of driving recheck the torque on those bolts.

 

MY GOD that was the best write up I've ever read. Talk about chalked
full of information!!!!!!

I can't believe you actually repositioned the knuckles on the axle tubes
that's insane. Yeah I think 6" maybe buying my buddies 8" is enough
for me. Do you think with 8" lift I would need a CV front driveshaft?
I don't wanna have to go through all the stuff you guys did I just don't
have the knowledge for all of that. I would mess up the caster and GOD
knows what else. Thanks for the info Ivan!

 

You can probably get away with no CV on an 8" lift if your you have the yokes/u-joints that can handle a little more angle. I don't remember the numbers, maybe someone can help but 1350's and 1410's I believe (I KNOW the 1410's) will take a lot more angle than a 1310 which I think is what these trucks came with. Turning the knuckles and all that junk on the axle isn't the only option, it just seemed like the best option for me when I was doing this. Plus is sounded easier than it was but by the time I figured that out I was halfway done.

 

actually the trucks like yours Ivan probably came with 1330s I believe, and believe it or not even my 86 had a 1330 on one side, and a 1310 on the other so I used a drivehsaft out of a F250, and the tcase that is out of a F350 (had hte 1330 front yoke on it from the factory) to get 1330s on both ends.
Yes the 1410s will take a lot more angle but measure clearence on the front yoke, and transmission becuase even with 1330s my yoke is very close to the tranny on the front driveshaft.

 

1410's can run 28 degrees easy....a stock 1330 cv cant take much more than 25, 1310's can take about the same as a 1410....they have alot of clearance, but are weak, but ive never seen anything but a 1330 in the fronts of 78-79 bronco's, 150s, and 250's.


for shims, i would get ahold of d&d machine....i got some 3 degree 3 inch wide steel shims from him for fairly cheap, look in the vendors section of pirate.

 

Yeah, could be 1330's. Oddly enough the 79's came with a little larger u-joint than the 78's in the CV and can handle more angle. We've got a good shop here in town so I'm gonna run the truck down there next week and have him take a look at it and see what he can do.

 

Man I have no idea how to ID what yokes I have. I have a D60 front and a NP205 transfercase that's all I know. Anyway I put the shims in but there was huge gaps on each side and it just didn't look safe I don't care what the dude at the 4x4 place says. So after I put them in and dropped the truck down I had to take them back out. I timed myself for fun and it took me exactly 30 mintues to pull the tires, drop the axle and get the shims out and bolt it back up. So I guess I got that going for me. Anyway with the 3 degree shims in the axle still didn't look like it was pointing up enough. Should I buy 6 degree shims? I'm gonna buy an angle finder but I don't really have a level place to measure plus I'm still not really sure how to measure the pinion angle. I've searched the site quite a few times but I haven't found a thread that describes the measuring process.

 

do you have the 8 inch springs on yet??? its gonna wonder really bad on the road with 6 degree shims, unless you turn the knuckles to make up for the crazy angles

 

I agree. At 6º you'll be at either zero caster or slightly negative and you're gonna have problems. My suggestion would be to run it by a driveline shop and have them take a look at it to see what they think. You may find it best to go with a double CV, which is what I was originally going to do. It'll probably cost a few $$ to have it made but it'll save you all the trouble of the caster issues, turning knuckles, etc. and you probably don't have to have shims at all.

Btw, you can use an angle finder or a protractor to find you pinion angle. You'll basically have to eyeball it to hold it straignt inline with the pinion and then comepare that angle to your frame as a parallel reference point. If you use the angle finder and your truck is not sitting level then slap the angle finder on the bottom of your frame under the doors where it's nice and flat. Read the º on it and then subtract that (or add depending on which way the truck leans) from your reading on the pinion. That'll tell you your pinion angle.

 

Actually I decided to just get some new 6" lift springs for the back and
let me buddy sell the 8" I don't want all the hassles of that height. Plus
I didn't want to sacrifice the ride comfort. With these softrides and new
Pro-comp shocks this is the softest my truck has ever ridden. I like it
those 8" springs are stacked and look way rough. So nope I'm just sticking
with the 6" lift for now. That's why I thought the 3 degree shims would be
perfect. Actually they might be fine for what I have I just have no experience
with this stuff and the angle looked to be a little much. I have to go back
and read Cody's post on caster angles again.

 

you will be happy with your descision...like i said, i had the exact front springs you do, same drivetrain and driveshaft...with no shims...i broke a front joint a few times due to binding. i put some 3 degree shims in, and did some clearancing on the yokes with a grinder.....that gave me plaenty of room, and i havent had anymore problems with binding....and now im running springs that have more axle wrap up front, but still no probs