Advice for Engine Removal
#1
Advice for Engine Removal
Okay, I'll admit it, Ive been pretty spoiled. I bought my 1950 F3 in near original, but fifty year old, condition just over ten years ago. I've been able to drive it on the road nearly since day 1. With the dump box, it's pretty cool to be able to go and get a yard of mulch or topsoil, a bunch of rocks, a load of lumber, or just stuff from the hardware store. I don't even use my Monday to Friday truck (a 2005 Ranger) on days that start with "S".
Along the way, I've done a fair amount of work on the body (used to have a complection like a golf ball, but nearly no rust), engine peripherals, brakes, steering, springs, tires and wheels, hydraulics, electrics, etc. I even pulled the heads, intake and pan in my gravel driveway to replace the oil pump and powerwash the black stuff out of the valve gallery and crank area.
Now it's time for rings, bearings, valves and valve guides. Seems like everybody on this forum has pulled their engine except me. What I wanna know is: front body work on or off? The manual makes removal sound pretty easy, but I'll bet it's not. Easier just to remove the hood? That sounds easy too, except putting it back where I found it may be the trick. Pull engine and trans, or just the trans?
The other thing I need to know is, having created a gallery this morning, I think, though I can't find it, how do I put my one and only photo of the truck in it? IT IS NOT CALENDAR QUALITY.
Anyhow, any help will be appreciated. Thanks.
Dave
Along the way, I've done a fair amount of work on the body (used to have a complection like a golf ball, but nearly no rust), engine peripherals, brakes, steering, springs, tires and wheels, hydraulics, electrics, etc. I even pulled the heads, intake and pan in my gravel driveway to replace the oil pump and powerwash the black stuff out of the valve gallery and crank area.
Now it's time for rings, bearings, valves and valve guides. Seems like everybody on this forum has pulled their engine except me. What I wanna know is: front body work on or off? The manual makes removal sound pretty easy, but I'll bet it's not. Easier just to remove the hood? That sounds easy too, except putting it back where I found it may be the trick. Pull engine and trans, or just the trans?
The other thing I need to know is, having created a gallery this morning, I think, though I can't find it, how do I put my one and only photo of the truck in it? IT IS NOT CALENDAR QUALITY.
Anyhow, any help will be appreciated. Thanks.
Dave
#2
Dave -
There are lots of methods for removing the engine and they all seem to depend on personal preference (or laziness?) and what equipment and/or facilties you have.
I personally prefer to remove the front sheet metal, radiator, etc to allow a clean look at the front of the engine, then pull engine and tranny together, sliding out the front, or rolling the chassis back. I use a cherry picker because I don't have a lot of overhead clearance or other type crane. This method also allows easier cleaning of the engine bay before reinstalling, something I notice never gets done well hanging over the fenders. I just hate putting a nice clean rebuilt motor back into a grunge pit.
Pulling out the top with only the hood removed is an option, but you need a lot of overhead height and a A-frame, chain fall or tall cherry picker. Most folks seem to remove engine only with this method because of clearances required for the tranny. Reinstalling the motor to the tranny in place is harder, too.
With either option, there are tradeoffs.
There are lots of methods for removing the engine and they all seem to depend on personal preference (or laziness?) and what equipment and/or facilties you have.
I personally prefer to remove the front sheet metal, radiator, etc to allow a clean look at the front of the engine, then pull engine and tranny together, sliding out the front, or rolling the chassis back. I use a cherry picker because I don't have a lot of overhead clearance or other type crane. This method also allows easier cleaning of the engine bay before reinstalling, something I notice never gets done well hanging over the fenders. I just hate putting a nice clean rebuilt motor back into a grunge pit.
Pulling out the top with only the hood removed is an option, but you need a lot of overhead height and a A-frame, chain fall or tall cherry picker. Most folks seem to remove engine only with this method because of clearances required for the tranny. Reinstalling the motor to the tranny in place is harder, too.
With either option, there are tradeoffs.
Last edited by Randy Jack; 09-13-2005 at 12:04 PM.
#3
Dave,
I pulled the front sheet metal, but then again I was doing major modifications also and it just made sense a the time. Its not too difficult, 1 bolt under the radiator, one on either side of the inner fenders close to the top at the firewall, a couple on each side at the runnign boards. You don't need to pull the hood at all. I don't know about wiring as mine was pretty much non-existant to start with and in such bad shape that I just ditched it all.
Sounds like a cool truck
Bobby
I pulled the front sheet metal, but then again I was doing major modifications also and it just made sense a the time. Its not too difficult, 1 bolt under the radiator, one on either side of the inner fenders close to the top at the firewall, a couple on each side at the runnign boards. You don't need to pull the hood at all. I don't know about wiring as mine was pretty much non-existant to start with and in such bad shape that I just ditched it all.
Sounds like a cool truck
Bobby
#5
Dave, I think it depends on your belt size - if you wear one bigger than 42" it is so much easier to remove the front sheetmetel than bend over the fenders!
If you wear a 32" one there is enough room for you to jump in and stand beside your engine with all the sheetmetel in place.
If you fall between 32 and 42 inch - take the square of your age and divide by 2. Anything over 300 and you run the risk of being permanently crippled and bent over unless you remove the sheetmetal.
Good Luck!
PS, with a gravel driveway I would build a A frame and lift the engine straight up, rolling the truck out from under the engine. Cherry pickers are very difficult to move around in the rocks!
If you wear a 32" one there is enough room for you to jump in and stand beside your engine with all the sheetmetel in place.
If you fall between 32 and 42 inch - take the square of your age and divide by 2. Anything over 300 and you run the risk of being permanently crippled and bent over unless you remove the sheetmetal.
Good Luck!
PS, with a gravel driveway I would build a A frame and lift the engine straight up, rolling the truck out from under the engine. Cherry pickers are very difficult to move around in the rocks!
#6
#7
Trending Topics
#8
#9
#10
#11
#12
If you fall between 32 and 42 inch - take the square of your age and divide by 2. Anything over 300 and you run the risk of being permanently crippled and bent over unless you remove the sheetmetal.
So what you are saying is if you are anything but an toddler you should remove the sheetmetal. By your calculations a 24.5 child would have to remove the sheetmetal???
Broomfieldbum
So what you are saying is if you are anything but an toddler you should remove the sheetmetal. By your calculations a 24.5 child would have to remove the sheetmetal???
Broomfieldbum
#14
I agree about pulling the whole front end, but one caution --- it's easy to do, assuming the wiring can be easily disconnected and re-connected. You're likely to find a bunch of it crumbles in your hands when you try to unplug it, and you're likely to end up re-wiring the whole front end (unless your wiring is different than every other old truck I've see).
Not sure how '50's are, but on '52's it really helps to get the battery tray off first.
Not sure how '50's are, but on '52's it really helps to get the battery tray off first.
#15