Upfitter info here:
#31
You could probably get by without replacing the cupholder but the 03 and 05 are different. The part that you grasp when pulling it out is a different shape on the 05, its more square. The plastic behind the new panel also required a little bit of trimming in the area of the cigarette lighter plug and where the new glove box fits. I also had to trim the new panel on the top right hand corner as the plastic on the new one was a little thicker than the old one. Very easy to figure out if you compare the two. All of the bolt holes match up exactly. As a note, there are two bolts that hold the cup holder in place that you have to access up through where the bag holder is. You will have to replace the bag holder as this part is completely different. I'll try to post a pic but it really looks no different than that of an 05.
#32
i went ahead and hosted your article on my website with the pics inserted already the adress is http://www.geocities.com/richardsoucie/upfitter.html if that is not ok with you just tell me and i will take it down.
#33
Originally Posted by richsoucie
i went ahead and hosted your article on my website with the pics inserted already the adress is http://www.geocities.com/richardsoucie/upfitter.html if that is not ok with you just tell me and i will take it down.
#34
I realize this is an old thread, but it's full of information about adding upfitter switchs to older trucks...or at least part of it was talking about it. Are the foloowing parts all that are needed to add upfitter switches to '03 & '04 Super Duties?
I like the idea of a clean dash with switches that look like they belong. At work we have an '05 with the upfitter switches from the factory and they make the dash look "clean".
Originally Posted by rusty
1-5C3Z13D730AAA bank of On/Off switches fits into existing panel on dash no cutting or drilling required.
1-5C3Z14A303AA Complete harnes with plugs to plug right into the fuse panel, you also get all of the necessary relays and fuses installed in the block which is integrated into the harness.
1-5C3Z2513546CAA Storage bin to fill the gap left after installing switches on some applications.
1-5C3Z14A303AA Complete harnes with plugs to plug right into the fuse panel, you also get all of the necessary relays and fuses installed in the block which is integrated into the harness.
1-5C3Z2513546CAA Storage bin to fill the gap left after installing switches on some applications.
#36
#37
#38
Originally Posted by rwilimo
You will need the switch's and harness. The storage bin will not fit into the pre 05 dash. You will need to fab a plate like I did in the pictures or switch to the 05 dash panel.
#39
#40
hope you don't mind...but the other guys link doesn't work....so I redid yours on here with the coding to show the pics in the thread....
Upfitter install to 04 F250
1. Snap the upfitter bezel off of the switch pod with a small screwdriver working from the rear.
2. Fit the bezel into the dash cubby hole and observe where the 4 locking tabs contact the dash. Remove the bezel, apply a strip of masking tape to the top and bottom of the cubby where the locking tabs contact. Reinstall the bezel and using a pen, mark through the tab holes onto the masking tape.
3. I used a dremel tool with a rotozip bit to cut 4 holes in the cubby, I started a little forward (towards the front of the truck) of my marks to be safe and cut a slot the width of the locking tab and went rearward about a half inch. I then cut a wire hole through the rear. You may have to bend the tabs out a little on the bezel for a good fit, if they don’t lock in, you may have to bring the slot a little more out (towards the rear of the truck) to achieve the correct fit.
4. Install the harness per the directions
5. When I dropped my fuse block I found a matching white connector already in the truck with 2 wires being used. I removed the connector, then removed the locking wedge from both connectors, I tranfered the green/orange to the upfitter harness (the same location was open in the upfitter connector) The second wire I needed to move was a solid orange, however the upfitter harness also needed the same pin, so I spliced the upfitter violet/orange to the trucks solid orange.
6. I found that fuse location F2.3 & F2.5 (the feeds for switch’s 3 & 4) are dead, there are no circuits in the fuse box. I removed the RD/LB & RD wires from the connector, spliced them together and relocated them to here
7. You see the red wire with the blue butt connector, this feed’s off fuse #1 in the box (heated seats, Which I don’t have) I changed the fuse to 10A (In my application switch’s 3 & 4 are feed’s to a roof beacon so they will be fine on one fuse, depending on you application, you may need to find a second fuse so as not to combine them)
8. I them removed the lt blue/red wire (illumination), extended it, located the harness coming down from the headlamp switch and spliced into the same color wire.
9. I did find no power to switch’s 1 & 2 due to missing fuses in the box, simply
install fuses and you should be good to go.
Converting to momentary switch’s
1. Snap off the outer upfitter switch bezel with a small screwdriver working from the rear.
2. Separate front half of switch panel from the circuit board using the same
technique
3. Next you will have to remove the switch paddle that you want to make
momentary, if it is switch #1 or #4, working from the front of switch gently spread the plastic at the pivot and remove the switch, if you want to do Switch #2 or 3, I think you will have to remove the outer paddle first to make room although I did not try this.
5. Once the switch is apart if you look at the backside of the paddle you will see a white plastic rod that is spring loaded, now look into the housing cavity and you will see this
6. I used a small piece of an oil bottle and glued it into place like this
7. All you want to do is cover the lower dent so that the plastic rod does not have a place to snap into
8. Now just reassemble the pod and it should be momentary
Let me know if you have any additional questions
All done including a right side filler panel that I made out of some scrap lexan.
While you have the switch bezel off, you can trace the bezel to get the shape for a filler panel.
Upfitter install to 04 F250
1. Snap the upfitter bezel off of the switch pod with a small screwdriver working from the rear.
2. Fit the bezel into the dash cubby hole and observe where the 4 locking tabs contact the dash. Remove the bezel, apply a strip of masking tape to the top and bottom of the cubby where the locking tabs contact. Reinstall the bezel and using a pen, mark through the tab holes onto the masking tape.
3. I used a dremel tool with a rotozip bit to cut 4 holes in the cubby, I started a little forward (towards the front of the truck) of my marks to be safe and cut a slot the width of the locking tab and went rearward about a half inch. I then cut a wire hole through the rear. You may have to bend the tabs out a little on the bezel for a good fit, if they don’t lock in, you may have to bring the slot a little more out (towards the rear of the truck) to achieve the correct fit.
4. Install the harness per the directions
5. When I dropped my fuse block I found a matching white connector already in the truck with 2 wires being used. I removed the connector, then removed the locking wedge from both connectors, I tranfered the green/orange to the upfitter harness (the same location was open in the upfitter connector) The second wire I needed to move was a solid orange, however the upfitter harness also needed the same pin, so I spliced the upfitter violet/orange to the trucks solid orange.
6. I found that fuse location F2.3 & F2.5 (the feeds for switch’s 3 & 4) are dead, there are no circuits in the fuse box. I removed the RD/LB & RD wires from the connector, spliced them together and relocated them to here
7. You see the red wire with the blue butt connector, this feed’s off fuse #1 in the box (heated seats, Which I don’t have) I changed the fuse to 10A (In my application switch’s 3 & 4 are feed’s to a roof beacon so they will be fine on one fuse, depending on you application, you may need to find a second fuse so as not to combine them)
8. I them removed the lt blue/red wire (illumination), extended it, located the harness coming down from the headlamp switch and spliced into the same color wire.
9. I did find no power to switch’s 1 & 2 due to missing fuses in the box, simply
install fuses and you should be good to go.
Converting to momentary switch’s
1. Snap off the outer upfitter switch bezel with a small screwdriver working from the rear.
2. Separate front half of switch panel from the circuit board using the same
technique
3. Next you will have to remove the switch paddle that you want to make
momentary, if it is switch #1 or #4, working from the front of switch gently spread the plastic at the pivot and remove the switch, if you want to do Switch #2 or 3, I think you will have to remove the outer paddle first to make room although I did not try this.
5. Once the switch is apart if you look at the backside of the paddle you will see a white plastic rod that is spring loaded, now look into the housing cavity and you will see this
6. I used a small piece of an oil bottle and glued it into place like this
7. All you want to do is cover the lower dent so that the plastic rod does not have a place to snap into
8. Now just reassemble the pod and it should be momentary
Let me know if you have any additional questions
All done including a right side filler panel that I made out of some scrap lexan.
While you have the switch bezel off, you can trace the bezel to get the shape for a filler panel.
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