How do you get your tail gate down over your new license plate location??

 

BD, that's an easy fix:
Get a piece of 1/4" aluminum sheet the size of the plate. Drill countersunk mounting holes in the aluminum down far enough that the top is almost touching the bottom of the taillight and mount it to your bracket with a couple of countersunk head bolts. now drill the aluminum to match the license plate and bolt the plate to it. (or if it was me I'd drill two new holes lower in the license plate, move it up and bolt it on, painting the heads of the bolts the same color as the plate!)

 

If you're referring to mine I have about 3/4" clearance with the tailgate down.

 

JDMick...

That looks like an idea I had in my sleep last night (well.... she had prettier legs)....

Excellent idea. I was playing with some steel today kicking around some ideas.

It looks like you drilled a second hole into the side of the bumper bracket as well as using the existing oblong hole already there, to mount your bracket to the bumper support?

What are you using to iluminate the plate?

I have also been kicking around the idea of drilling a 3/4 hole into the truck bed (at the back), and mounting a light in the hole, and then just mounting the LP to the bed just above the bumper. I HATE the idea of drilling into the bed though.

Ed Wagner.... I appreciate you stepping up to the plate. I understand the need for the plate showing. Its just frustrating as the parts needed to conform to the rules, just are not there. We have to fabricate and damage our stock trucks generally. I have a question for you though...... Is there a way of registering the vehicle so that the vehicle is exempt from many of the "road rules", and still be able to drive the truck? In otherwords does a "historical" plate save us from altering the trucks from their original look?

Thanks for all the posts. I will check out the plates from SOCAL also.

 

JDMick....

Almost forgot to tell ya. Your truck looks really fantastic! Send me a PM and let me know what wood dimensions you used for the truck bed railing, and where you obtained the cloth wire sleeves for your tail lights.

Also.... how did you ground your tail lights?

 

Yup, I drilled a small 1/4" second hole and bolted it just to keep it steady. For illumination I guess I'm depending on sunlight and maybe some glimmer from the taillight. If necessary I wouldn't think it would be too hard to mount some kind of light to the license plate frame with the bulb between the plate and the bumper.

 

I think I could run a light into the back of the fender and shine it up on the plate. Here in Cali, it has to be a lit license plate.

Let me know on the other things above.... Thanks.

 

Oh..... one more thing....

JDMick.... did you replace the drivers side rear tail light after you moved the license plate down on the bumper? The normal tail light on that side has a clear window on the bottom (that used to illuminate the license plate). Did you find a tail light that did not have the bottom window? Or just leave it...?

Thanks

 

Here is one of the light fixures from SoCal. It attaches using the license plate holes.... which could be kinda nice. I don't know about the modern look though.
It is stainless steel.



Maybe I could fabricate a square tube one.

 

You can buy license plate bolts with LEDs built into the heads to light the plate.

 

AXracer,

Cool. I was thinking about trying to use LED's. Let me know where I might find them.
They should be easy to use with a 6volt. I may need to use a seperate 6v PS/transformer.

All of the LED bolts I am finding have the LED pointing straight out. I need something that points down.

 

Here we go....

The bottom frame looks to be the ticket. Now I just need to figure a way to go 6volt. May require changing the LEDs.

http://www.customdynamics.com/illumi...nce_plates.htm

 

Historical Plates are kind of a gray area in Ohio at least. Technically the vehicle can't be driven daily, HP's are supposed to be for parades and shows, all of our Deputies regard daily driving with HP's as "showing " the vehicle. Our department doesn't try to apply modern standards to what are restored classic or antique vehicles, if it was original at the time it was built we accept it, generally because the kind of people who put the time and money into a restoration aren't the kind of people we would be worried about carrying 100 lbs. of crack and 47 automatic weapons when we stop them. But as I mentioned before attitude DOES influence action, If I asked about the location of the plate or taillight or whatever and I get a calm explanation of the fact that it is Factory original and historically correct: A: I've learned something B: It meets our standards as stated above.
If I get a "Street Lawyer" type response: " What's it matter" It ain't hurtin nothin'" "Is this on your quota list", someone will spend a very miserable hour or so while I do a Records check, wants and warrants and a full Safety check of the vehicle. Ed

 

I have the same issue on my F3 (photo in gallery). I have not been stopped for it nor for the blue dots. I would like to fix it, but I don't see a solution that keeps it under the light, and doesn't interfere with the box or hide partially behind the bumper.

 

I had the same prob on my 54. I fabbed a simple bracket (12 gauge?) so that I could move the plate to the middle just under the tailgate. I did not want to punch any holes in my new bed, so the bracket is "L" shaped and fastens to the bottom side of the bed. Take a look at my gallery, it shows before and after shots. Good luck, Jag