alot of guys are flipping their t/rod over the knuckle conversion. one of the things that need to be done is for the steering knuckle hole to be tapered out from the top in order to seat the tie rod stud. I'm wondering from those that did it, what type of tapering jig did you use to enlarge the hole? wild horses sell the tapered reamer for $90.00. I'm just wondering if their are much cheaper tools just to do 3 holes? thanks

 

I used the taper reamer from BC Broncos and I thought they had a pro one for $109 and an "economy" one for $75. I couldn't find any cheaper than this. I did the reaming using my drll press and a vice - just went slow, used lots of oil and checked the depth a lot to make sure I didn't go too far.

 

thanks for the reply toque, I was waiting for someone to reply! I used a carbide cone burr. It worked but slow. I've got another problem that you might be able to help me with. My t/rod adjusting sleeve hits the bottom of my track bar mount, on full right turns! did this happen to you? I had to grind the sleeve to create a ramp so it would climb over the big nut that holds the bottom of the track bar in place.

 

A lot of guys have raised the lower track bar mounting on the axle to help the geometry between the track bar and the drag link. Many of them will move it back slightly for more clearance.

Jason

 

Your right about the axle geometry Jason. I've had a sway problem for years and replaced just about everthing till I learned several months ago about bump steer. very scary on the highway! Even my alingnment shop didn't know about how important, track bar and the draglink needs to be as parallel to each other as possible. My bronco steers so much better now that I've got my geometry in phase! I wonder how much other bronco owner have the same problem and not know it?

 

mauicruza,
I done the flip, but I haven't finished the truck so I haven't driven it yet. I'll have to watch for that interference.