I'm trying to find out what years/models I can pull the factory trailer connector from for my '96 f150. It looks like it may be '92 to '96 from the haynes, but I don't trust them much.

The F150 (or 250?) with factory tow option, has a 7blade (rv) connector. On the '96 it looks like it uses two round connectors from the factory wiring harness. The standard step-bumper model just gets the 4flat connector.

I'd like to find one that uses the factory wiring, and plan to check the salvage yards, wanted to find out if it was just '96 F150's or all '96 Fseries, I was looking through the electrical schematic in one of the paper manuals, and it looks like it may be the same from '92 - '96.

I just bought a trailer that has a 7 blade (rv) connector and I had read that some later Fseries have built in wiring for electric brakes (minus controller). I noticed they make 'factory' connectors for brake controllers for '96 too. Long story short, I'm under the back bumper and where my truck has a 4pin connector there is a second wire from the factory harness that terminates to a dust cover. That connector has 3 wires, which should be the missing three for the 7 blade connector (elect brk, aux pwr, and bckup).

Being adventuresome I called the dealer parts counter, and he told me that yes the '96 is prewired for trailer connections, and that they have a 7 blade connector for it. I asked if it fit any other years and he told me '96 only. I'm not sure though. The ford part costs 101$ new. The generic aftermarkets cost $30, but doesn't use the factory harness. I hate to cut off a good connector to put on a cheap crimp.

Apparently '96 is the orphan year. It's the last year of old body style, but the electronics aren't the same as either the new or the old. So far I have run into a few things that are unique to '96. Mostly with computer and fuel injection. Hopefully this isn't another one.

Thanks for the help.

 

If you can't find the factory stuff to plug it all in, don't be afraid to cut the wires and splice in an after-market plug.

Some people have the miss-conception that the whatever the factory did as far as wiring goes, is "sacred" and should not be messed with. Well, they have probably seen, as we all have, hacked up wiring that gives problems all the time, and want to avoid all those problems. But, there are methods to modifying the wiring properly, the electric company does it all the time to give you power to your house. The word "splice" does not have to be a bad word if done properly.

The most trouble free way to splice is to buy a soldering iron and solder at radio shack, and solder your connections. And before you put the wires together, slide a piece of shrink wrap over the wire. Once the wires are soldered good, you have a good electrical was well as mechanical connection. The only thing left to do is insulate, which you can do by sliding the shrink wrap over the joint, and heating it to cover the joint. It will look pretty good after you are done, and last for years.

 

That sounds like the way to go, the good news is that the wires are already run, and relays and fuses are all there too. I have soldered and shrink tubed all my radio connections for years, but in the salty winter roads I was concerned that shrink tube wouldn't be weather proof enough. I had to replace the starter cable last winter because it was mangled. Lost about 75% of 6-8 inches to copper corrosion, green dust.

I will think I'll have to do that, maybe I'll put some of that flexible plastic conduit tubing over the wirebundle too to keep out a little extra water, and rely on the shrink wrap for the final barrier.

Thanks for the advice,

 

I haven't figured out who sells it yet, but I want to try some of that liquid electrical tape. Some people like it. It reminds me of that liquid dip stuff that you dip your tool handles in to make a rubber cover for them.

 

I got it hooked up, I took off the factory 4pin and clipped and soldered in half the new 7 blade connector, for the other 3 wires I used crimp on connectors, with shrink tube over therm, (so that when/if I locate a second water tight plug I can redo it) to connect to the other wires.

The second plug is deffinately the other trailer connection. The trailers electric brakes worked great. I couldn't get the lights in the trailer to come on though. I went through the diagrams again and it looks like the aux power is supposed to come from a relay in the engine compartment fuse panel. That relay isn't installed and it looks like it doesn't have connectors on the pins to put one in either. I also noticeced what looks to be the free end of my connector dangling next to the fuse box, and another connecter stuck in a cover right next to it. It is a 4pin round connecter.

The weather is nasty tonight, so it'l take a couple days to get to it, but I supsect that covered connector right next to it is the wire going to the missing relay. If I'm lucky, connecting that, and adding a relay will make it full power to my 7 blade connecter.

One thing that I'm wondering is, several of the relays show more than one function, which isn't electricaly posible (ie fuel pump, and driving lights) If there is more than one, where is the alternate location? I was hoping to be able to use the factory wiring to add my own fog lights too.

 

If you can't find the liquid tape try a Mercury Marine dealer. They have, or had, a product called liquid neoprene. Looking at connections that use the liquid neoprene and having used the liquid tape it appears to me the neoprene might be a better product.

 

Found something interesting, the 2) 4)pin trailer connectors on the back are the ones list in a few places as the early 97 models. I guess they used them for a year and a half??? I took a couple pictures, maybe i'll throw them in a gallery.

I have seen the liquid electrical tape at Home depot.