Plumbing Experts......Please Help!

Do they make a patch for the white 4" PVC drain pipe?

Idiot (me) looked at the pictures of the walls prior to the drywall installation (when the house was built), used a stud finder & a 18g brad nailer to hang the chair rail, then when I noticed the nail spacing didn't seem right, I looked at the pictures again......I am 99% sure I put (2) of the brads into the PVC.

My goal is to make as small of a hole in the drywall as possible & don't want to cut a section of the pipe out. The nails are probably sealed, but they would create something for the waste to catch on, resulting in future clogs.

 

You probably have a couple of possibilities. Since the holes are small, and drain pipe is not under pressure, you could perhaps use a small STAINLESS STEEL screw that would not protrude into the pipe (i.e., length of roughly 1/8"), then cover it with silicone caulk. You could possibly just use the silicone caulk (let it cure fully before using that pipe), then Duct Tape over it. Neither of these would require a very large hole in the wall.

Jason

 

hi, try useing the blue pvc glue and just paint it on let it dry , repeat!!! barry

 

Are you sure you hit the pipe I have tried to nail into pvc pipe and it didnt work it cracked and took a big chunk out.

 

It's not just a hanging point, but if there is any space around the brad at all some sewer gas can get past it - not much, but even a little is too much.

First I would make sure that I nailed the pipe. If I did I would remove the chair rail, which, hopefully, would remove the brad. Then, after making sure the brad was out, I would drill about a 1/2" hole in the drywall. (1/2" hole is easy to patch without the need for anything but a little mud or compound). I like the way "QuikSteel" works. It's an epoxy that you can roll into a ball like PlayDo. After rolling it enough to mix the hardener in, I would just take a small dowel or pencil (eraser end) and shove it into the hole. It will harden in just a few minutes. Problem solved and then you can patch the hole and reinstall everything.

 

I was using a Bostich Pneumatic brad nailer with 2" 18g Brads.

Thank you all for replying, all suggestions are welcomed......please keep them coming!

 

What do you think of this idea:

Take a 4" PVC coulping, cut out a section to make a patch. Using a 2 part marine expoy, expoy the patch over the holes. Use to band (hose) clamps around the pipe & patch.

Then use the metal screen drywall patch over the hole (should be smaller than a 6"x6" hole.

 

I would cut the section, but 2 couplers and glue in a new chunk, but that will be a bit tricky if your not gonna hack open the wall.

 

What I meant by cut a section, was cut a section of the coupler to make the patch. I wasn't going to cut the actual pipe at all. Just apply the 'patch' over the 2 18g holes.

 

What damage did those two 18ga nails do to the pipe? Have you assessed the damage yet?

It is just a drain pipe - no pressure...except sewer gas and the Drain Waste Vent should take care of that.

 

If the nails didnt crack the pipe, just use some JB Weld to fill the holes in..just mixit up, fill the holes, and youll be golden, if you were going to cut a pieceof the wall out, a big piece, you could use a 4" 'fernco' and some plumbers putty. If you did that, all youd do is slice the fernco down the back, straight up and down, put plumbers putty on the back, them use the hose clamps that came with the fernco, and tighten it around the pipe till the putty splooges out around the sides of the pipe, and the fernco is tight, easy fix, just make sure the pipe isnt cracked, and that there is nothing protruding into the pipe.

--JB

 

boy, I like one of the first suggestions. replace it with a small screw. Chaulk will seal anything. Get some of that exterior chaulk and bead all the way around it. do it one more time for good measure, and that would be it. Seems like the best idea. The screw would really hold it in place. don't mess around with adding more pipe.

Ryan

 

I agree, chaulk would be very effective in situations like this. The screw would simply be a base that wouldn't budge when the pressure is applied to it. This is defintely the easy practical route, if your one of those "get it done the textbook way" kind of guys, you should defintely replace the pipe so there is no evidence of you messing anything up.

 

I'm going to cut the drywall tongiht to assess the damage.

I'm guessing the pipe is intact with just the 2 holes, because they were my first 2 fasteners in that molding & it held tight as if it were in a stud.

I wanted to make sure I had the materials to fix it.

 

My dad being a master plumber and me getting on my way. Here is the professional and proper way to fix the drain.

Firstly don't think you can go without repairing this hole. Overflow can happen and it most likely will, that's why we use pipe not something like an eves troph.
Secondly, don't and I mean don't use duct tape or glue or epoxy or putty to patch the hole. Honestly I've seen it used in some of the houses my dad and I go to and it's really brutal.
Thirdly, you need plumbing supplies. Materials - (2) 4" pvc couplings, piece of 4" pvc pipe, pvc primer and pvc cement. (pvc glue can be used especially on drains)

It's almost as easy to call a plumber with all the materials you'll have to buy. At least with us we keep it on the truck and just grab it as we use it.

Hopefully everything goes good for you. BTW you'll have to cut the wall so cut a square out to make it easy to patch the wall. Peace out. moose94