My bronco 2 on 40's
#1
My bronco 2 on 40's
Ok I am still working on it, right now I am putting a new master cylinder on it because I couldn't get the brakes working. I have disc brakes all around, and to those of you who might have a problem with the brakes on a 84 there is a stupid bias valve for emergency use that if a line goes or something it will slide inside the valve and shut off that end so you wont lose all your brakes. Well that thing gets stuck and I find it retarded engineering, so I pulled the cap and slid it out the end and will not be using it. It was keeping me from bleeding my brakes. Anyways I have a TTB 44 under the front and a old eaton 1 ton rear axle both welded and 5.13 gearing. James duff traction bars. Pro comp adda leaves out back with some angled blocks to correct driveshaft angle. Up front I moved the spring perches out 2.5 inches and it has springs from a fullsize. Overall about 4 inches of suspension and a 3 inch body lift. That combined with massive trimming The 40 swampers fit fine. I painted it black and removed all the carpet and whatnot inside and painted it and put rubber mats down. Also the body mount bolts were badly rusted as well as the frame at the spring perches that I had to repair or replace. The engine is in need of a tuneup and I was planning on a 302 I have for it but Nope. It does fine with the 2.8. After headers and a diff intake and carb and maybe cam it will suit me good. I can spin the tires in 2wd high. Thats with it welded. Of course thats in grass, but thats still saying something for that motor. I for giggles turned the wheel still in 2 high and floored it and that thing will cut doughnuts like nobodys business. Thats in a dry field. I was amazed, it had no trouble. And I don't mean sissy spinning either. You know where you get going and the back slides out and you spin I am talking about it sitting there and spinning circles as long as I want. Plus, no sway bars and it didn't act like it wanted to roll at all. Its fun. I can't wait until I have it totally done, well I will never be totally done. Anyways time to go turn some wrenches.
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Yea, I would already have but about a month ago lightning hit my phone line and fried my logic board, my keyboard, my modem, and the cable that I plug my camera into to download pics. The only thing that survived was my mouse. I have fixed everything else $400.00 worth but just found out my camera cable had been hit as well, I was trying to download pics from my current jobsite, I work with large hydraulic a friction cranes and was putting together a huge sign for a cherokee Nation casino. I still have the pics just can't download them, I think its time to get a SD card and card reader. Yeah, it looks huge being so small with those tires. will put pics up soon and put a reminder or something out.
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#8
pic..well here's mine with 3 inch body, 4 inch suspension sitting on 35x12.50x15 BFG AT/s ..
My 86 Bronco II
My 86 Bronco II
#9
Ok got a memory card and am going outside to take some pics. And yes, I am from Muskogee ok. I work out of Wilkerson Crane yard on 36th st North in tulsa close to owasso. But we travel all around at least to the neighboring states. We are usually only gone for a couple of days, I am usually around. So here I go. Pics will be on car domain in 15 to 20 min.
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No the D44 ttb did not fit into the factory mounts. I first took some info I got off rangerstation, THAT WAS INCORRECT!!!!! So I built 2 custom mounts out of half inch and quarter inch plate that were WRONG. So after rebuilding and modifying I got it where the hubs were at the same distance on each side sticking out, and that the slip shaft between the diff and passenger side worked properly. and believe it or not, the pivot points were actually closer together with the D44 than they were with the D28. Which is exactly the opposite from the info I got from the above. Then I used the factory radius arm mount from the frame, I cut the rivets and unbolted it and slid it back, or I should say a spread it out as far as possibe in its little slip area. I then cut the radius arms on the D44 and bent them inward so that they would fit into the narrower B2 mount. Then once I fought them into it, I welded the radius arms up and put a couple of reinforcement plates over the welds on the inside to be stronger or I should say to have more leverage against breakage. After that In order to go along with dropping the Pivot points 3 inches below stock for the lift, the radius arm bracket needed to be lower as well so the caster would be positive , I believe thats the term for the tilt of the axle steering components so its slightly tilted upward so it will help with the self centering and tracking. Then to lower it, well it was already lower because it was several inches farther back on the frame which was lower than where it was mounted before, but I used 2" .25 wall square tube, and cut it in the middle and bent it to form the same shape as the bend in the frame and welded the bend. Which lowers the radius arm 2 inches if I mount it to that. Then I welded the radius arm bracket to the tube and the tube to the frame, tube to the frame first. See I figured it was rivited to the frame so I don't think I will ever need to remove it, but I can if I need to. But Thats how I did it, It was difficult and I would not recommend trying to do it unless you really want it and have a lot of patience and good fab skills.
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