Door Lock Actuator Replacement Procedure (Enhanced)
#16
#17
Originally Posted by pbc33
Will replacing the actuator fix my problem? My locks will lock correctly but when I unlock they might work for one or two up and downs then they start to fail and won't unlock. There os a faint clicking. It's like the power starts to weaken. This been happening for a few months now.
#20
Originally Posted by GeoQwest
I've done 3 of these on my 2000.
The fact that this topic has yielded over 1400 visits should make Mr. Ford think of one word...RECALL.
The good news is that the more these replacement parts sell, the price drops. And I have yet to replace a replacement actuator. The new ones from Mr Ford are a bit smaller and lack the Made in China feel quality of the OEM parts.
The fact that this topic has yielded over 1400 visits should make Mr. Ford think of one word...RECALL.
The good news is that the more these replacement parts sell, the price drops. And I have yet to replace a replacement actuator. The new ones from Mr Ford are a bit smaller and lack the Made in China feel quality of the OEM parts.
#21
Another interesting Lock Problem.
Maybe the actuator replacement will work on my problem but I thought I'd run it by all the exerts before I commit.
When I turn off the truck, the locks function properly if I use the button. They all lock and unlock. My problem is, that when I turn it off, locked or unlocked, doors open or closed, the locks go up and down like maybe 8 times. Then theres about a 15 second break, then they do it again. It keeps doing this endlessly. Not always 8 times though, sometimes it's only 3 or 5 or 2 or 1. Totally random. I've pulled the fuse for the locks. There's a clicking under the dash that's causing the locks to go crazy. If I put the fuse back while under the dash is clicking, the locks start to move. Any thoughts please????
When I turn off the truck, the locks function properly if I use the button. They all lock and unlock. My problem is, that when I turn it off, locked or unlocked, doors open or closed, the locks go up and down like maybe 8 times. Then theres about a 15 second break, then they do it again. It keeps doing this endlessly. Not always 8 times though, sometimes it's only 3 or 5 or 2 or 1. Totally random. I've pulled the fuse for the locks. There's a clicking under the dash that's causing the locks to go crazy. If I put the fuse back while under the dash is clicking, the locks start to move. Any thoughts please????
#24
Originally Posted by mogultx
The toughest part was the green clip. I could not visualize how it should separate. I spent probably more than 20-30 minutes trying to get the first one apart. I was trying hard not to damage any of the components. Also not having a flashlight helper made the job a little slower.
Didn't know this thread existed before I did 3. However I didn't know there was an actuator in the glass door lift gate? Thanks Jim
Last edited by vettdvr; 07-28-2006 at 09:21 AM.
#27
Excellent descriptions.
Thanks for help. I just replaced both passenger side doors.
The green tab is the most frustrating thing in the whole procedure. It is extremely difficult to get open. The first one took me over 30 minutes. You use so much force you swear you'll break something. The tab you are looking to get a grip on with your finger (I couldn't get a screwdriver to fit in there) is facing the outside of the door.
Thanks again...........Time for a beer................
Thanks for help. I just replaced both passenger side doors.
The green tab is the most frustrating thing in the whole procedure. It is extremely difficult to get open. The first one took me over 30 minutes. You use so much force you swear you'll break something. The tab you are looking to get a grip on with your finger (I couldn't get a screwdriver to fit in there) is facing the outside of the door.
Thanks again...........Time for a beer................
#28
Improvement on the procedure
I found that the key to making the installation of these actuators a lot easier and quicker is removing the outside door handle. Once you have removed the door panel and have access from the inside there's two nuts that hold the handle on. There's a rubber plug that covers the access hole to one of them. Once you remove the nuts with a socket wrench, you can pull the handle assembly out and remove the link to the the handle itself. From the outside I found I could easily lift the lift the locking tab on the actuator with a screwdriver and slide it out (toward the inside) and remove the electrical connector. The new one went back in in reverse order as you align the actuator arm back back into the hole the old one came out of. Once the new one is in, you reattach the door handle in link, put the door assembly back in place, screw the two nuts back on and reassemble the door panel. After I discoved this while working on my second door, the remaining doors took about 10-15 minutes each.
#29