I just purchased a 1999 F-250 SD 2wd V-10 automatic and I have a few questions. Is there a solution to the smooth shifts of the trans? Will a Sonnex valve and Triaccumulator springs help or do I need a chip or? I also have a slight ticking noise coming from the bottom end of the motor sounds like a lifter noise not a rod bearing, (after setting over night it sounds more like a rod noise) me and my buddy didn't notice it until tonight, it doesn't seem to be noticable when warm though. I was told it is the sound of a V-10. I've noticed when I shut the truck off it shuts off immediately like a new engine does. It has a slight exhaust leak on first start up but when it warms up it goes away and man is this thing quiet... The rear end cover is rusted bad, heck the frame and axle still have the factory decals on them and there in good shape. Is this common ? I had a guy tell me to get the plastic cover for the rear end before it starts leaking, that its a common problem with the covers. What grade of oil do you guys recommend ? I normally use 10w30 but I noticed it calls for 5w30 and with 88,000 miles is a synthetic going to cause leaks or should I just stay with conventional motor oil? This thing has no leaks so far and I don't want it to start... What grade a gas do you guys run, I don't want to have a problem with detination. Can you get a bigger trans cooler it has the small one and I would feel safer with the larger one when I start to pull a trailer with it. Any other ideas or things to check would be greatly appreciated.... Also what do you guys think of getting an extended Ford warranty 12 months or 12,000 miles it includes the complete powertrain for a $1,000 ? This is the first mod style motor I have ever owned and I was told the noises are alot different then the old pushrod motors and to not panic its probally nothing just the way they sound.... I catch myself listening for any weird noises and just want to reasure myself that its normal for a V-10... Any words of wisdom would greatly be appreciated....


Bill

 

A programmer would be the easiest way to firm up the shift points.

Keep your engine oil at 5w30 --the modular engine family has relatively small openings for oil and a larger grade will risk clogging them.

The v10 is programmed from the factory to run on 87 octane.

A larger tranny cooler wouldn't hurt, unless you go ridiculously large. Once you program the tranny to shift firmer, it will also cut down on temperature and wear on the tranny (smooth shifts wear out automatics faster that firmer ones).

 

I have an '01 F-250 with V10 & I'd recommend a tranny temperature gauge & add-on cooler if you're gonna tow. According to what I've read, you can't overcool, tranny has a minimum temperature protection, seems to be true from what I've seen with the temp. gauge. Yours calls for 5-30 & not 5-20 engine oil?

 

I'd stick with the factory recommended wt oil, conventional (non-syn) At your milage you may experience leakage or higher comsumption w/ syn 'cause it's slicker'n reg'lar oil. Don't know if I agree w/ 73's opinion that a heavier wt will clog passages, I learned that heavier wts don't provide as much (cold) start up lube protection as lighter wt oils, and the V10 may depend on the oil pump getting them juices flowin' faster like it does with 5-30 (5-20 in my case). Seems to me 5-20 (or any 5 wt) is super light (I used 20-50 in my old Fords) but Ford says it's the one. I've also read that it's pretty important to stick with the recommended wt in these modular engines. Exactly why, I don't know.

I always use regular gas, no pinging problems.

Warranty, that's gotta be your call. For me, I wouldn't, I've had a buncha (pro'ly 25 or so Fords, an' the heaviest powertrain work I've had to do on any of them was a few valve jobs and rebuild a couple trannys. We're talkin' 200k on a couple of these, a lot w/ over 100k. I got my wrenchin' experience on other peoples' hunks of crap Chevys, Dodges, and imports, not so much on my own stuff! So, for me, extended warrs are a waste of money. But if you want peace of mind...me, I'd take the $1000 and drive away.

The V10 does make different noises than I'm used to with my older Fords, but I don't hear anything changing for the worse, that's a good thing.

Sorry about the long post. Gotta go, here comes the wifey with the frying pan....OUCH! Daaaaannng it!

Good luck w/ your truck.

 

The 99's were prone to piston slap. Most noticable when cold. The paint on the rear dif was cheap. Just clean it and repaint. 5w30 is just fine. Use a good filter like Motocraft FL820S. Your tranny cooler should be huge. Look between the radiator and the A/C coil. The little cooler on the front towards the bottom is for the power steering. The Sonax and springs will really firm up the shifts.

 

Stick with the Ford lube specifications, if your going to tow add a aftermatket oil temp gage and an auxilery cooler, easy weekend project and LOTs of info and pictures in this site on how to do it.

I personnally use Chevron with techron 87 RON, but he best thing you can do is make sure you get clean fuel.

Wire brush the diff cover, wipe ti down with brake cleaner and shoot it with high temp black BBQ paint and forget about it.

The warranty is up to you and needs to be based on condition of the vehicle and if it was abused. If the previous owner took care of it, then with 88,000 on the clock, all the stuff that usually craps out already should have.

If you think the tranny has been abused (you seem concerned about the smooth shifts) then the $1000 might be a good deal if you need a tranny within that time frame.

I am not a big fan of adding aftermarket chips or valves to used 4R100 transmissions. They are OK if you have a new unit that you know is not damaged or too well worn. The higher line pressures and harsher shifts may kill a maringal internal part.

There are several transmission shops around the country that rebuild the 4R100 to be able to take the torque of the PSD on steroids. Every rebuild I have seen, had changes to a LOT of weak points within the trans. I reccommend you do what is needed to keep it cool. And if it doesn't behave right when you are towing, then look into the other options. If it has not been done recently get the trans fluid changed out after the aux cooler is put on.

I would read up on the spark plug blow out issue. Lots of posts on how to check them. Pain in the butt but you should clean out the plug depressions with compressed air, and pull the plugs, inspect them, reinstall if good or replace them and use a torque wrench to make sure they are tight but not overtorqued.