yep...sounds good. report back when pics come. until then....good luck.

 

check crutchfeild they have a box for the newer F150(mine's a 97) that fits under the seat. Its kind of pricey though and they may not have one for a 95. I ended up building my own for now I just went with one Polk audio 8" sub and built the box to fit under the drivers side rear seat I just barely got the .35 cu ft needed for this sub but it punches pretty good with a Profile 400w mono amp and if I want more later I can add a second box under the passenger side rear seat with another 8 and hookup to the same amp.

 

i dont believe they do. i checked about everywhere to find one...and failed. i think 97 is the oldest year they go for the ford extended cab.

 

a custom box is probably the only way to go then to keep the stock seating. the best way to go is to figure what kind of space you are working with (sub enclosures usually are spec'd in cu ft) and design your system from there. in my 97 8" subs are all that will fit and thats tight one sounds good but I plan on another later. I"ll try to get some photos up tomorrow this might give you some ideas. In my case I could fit two more 8s under the pass side rear if one more doesn't do it.

 

the photos of my sub box are in my gallery now if you're iterested. It took a bit of math and trial and error b4 comming up with the design (i used a cardboard template for the trial and error part it's cheaper than the real stuff). If you build your own box pay close attention to the mounting depth of your sub (I had to shave a bit of material off the bottom plate of 1/2" mdf on mine to get clearance to mount my sub) if I had gone with a lower profile grille I could have built the box a bit taller and avoided this but the Polk grille was really good looking.

 

You can just make a frame and bolt the Subs without a box straight to the underside of your seats. There is no differance in sound and the bass coil stays cooler.


If you really want a boxed in unit just add some siding on the Front and rear of you seat frame. I used plastic push pins to hold the sides on and left one side of the seat frame open "Side Next to Center Console for a port.

 

If you think an unboxed sub sounds the same as a boxed you have never heard a boxed sub. my 8" out pounds a buddy's 2 12" subs he has mounted to a board in the rear of his Bronco he also has twice the amp I have. Also just putting panels in and not sealing them does not make a proper enclosure. any sub enclosure must be properly sealed including ported enclosures (all but the port itself).

 

If you put a 8" Sub in a box that will fit under the seat. Let me give a lesson in High and Low pressure. A box that small can not even hold enough air much less have any reserve left to make it move a 1/4". You will burn out the coil from over heating!

Im a perfect world it would need a Trunk to get the proper air flow needed. But we are talking about a truck and he wants to keep his rear seat's.

P.S. If you want to have your ear drums operated on like me, Keep driving those subs at 100+ watts! I need to have my ear vacumed out 4 times year from all the crap that leaks out now and a 20% hearing loss!

 

I guess the guy that designed the speaker to go in a .35 cu ft box (per mfr specs) just didn't have a clue and should have asked you

 

I'm not here to argue tinman!

I'm am stating facts that come from the Designer's and Engineer's at Alpine. I haved talked with them many times on the best way to mount there equipment for my application. There are trade off's I will live with before I cut my truck up for a speaker!

Like I said in a "Perfect World" you can build it they way it was designed to be used. But a truck is not a perfect plateform for a sound system. Unless you want to cut it all up and redesign the inside.

 

check my photos in my gallery and I challenge you to find where I "cut up" my truck because it didn't happen. Also anyone (the engineers at Alpine included) knows that to get the desired performance from a sub woolfer it must be in an enclosure and for a sealed enclosure for most 8" subs the required interior air space is.35 cu ft. This is fact. This is the way the engineers design the speakers to work.

 

Look peep, I'm not going to Argue with you. When ever the subject of sound systems come's up, I know it's going to get so subjective you can't win. Everybody thinks there system and idea is the final word and there never wrong. The samething when Talking Ford, Chevy, or Chrysler.

Here is a article on just how many ways to mount a Sub and Why. Your Polk audio site is the only one that states .35 Cubic Inch for a Box with no reason as to why and whats the disadvantage to it.

http://www.caraudiohelp.com/custom_c...udio_boxes.htm

 

This is the last I'll say on the matter you did not read the article you are touting in defense of your position. It is about "infinite Baffle Mounting" in which the piont is still to isolate one side of the woolfer from the other by sealing it as best as possible. The article also states that mounting a sub in this manner will require a lot more power and the sound will be less accurate. I'm not trying to say what I did is the best. It is the best for small areas. It also has its disadvantages. If you like your bass to be heard by your neighbors the small sealed enclosure is not for you it will not "boom" halfway down the block. If this is what you want you need a much larger ported enclosure (is still needs to be sealed exept for the port) this will give you big booming bass but it also is not as tight and accurate as a sealed enclosure and requires more amp power to drive the sub. So as you can see everything has a trade off I'm just saying if you want a small area set-up the small sealed enclosure with a small amp is the way to go as it gives crisp clean bass in a small area with less power to the amp(smaller amp easier fit less cost very good).

 

I just got a 1995 f-150 extended cab. It has 2 bucket seats in the front with a console. The back seat is a bench. I am going to remove the plastic panels in the extended cab where the arm rests are and I am going to mount my amps there on both sides. I am then going to cut the seat material and seat foam out of the center of the bench. Leave enough material to fold it over the side. Install smaller subwoofer box in the now cut out section and you have a system. And still have the console, 2 seats in the back, and floor space. I am going with a shallow depth sub box in the cutout part of the seat. And the sub box acts as an arm rest.

 

I'm building a friend a downfiring box to go between the console & rear seat. It will be ported & hit real hard. I have one in my F250 crewcab. I just bought a 800 watt pioneer pro 10 for it. Now I need a bigger amp to drive it & it will rock. The 300 watt amp I have can't push it. I have a Audioque 750 watt amp ordered. It will drive it.