Question about a PVS switch on '78 F-150
#1
Question about a PVS switch on '78 F-150
I would like to know if my '78 F-150, 400 motor, non-CA emissions truck originally contained a PVS switch on the thermostat housing(or anywhere else). There are two plugged holes on the housing. And, if it did, was the switch a three port switch?
AND, what was the vacuum hose routing on the switch?
AND, what was the vacuum hose routing on the switch?
#2
#3
My 78 Bronco 351M has one TVS on the thermostat housing, and the second hole is plugged. The TVS is a three port, but I'm not sure how it was utilized from the factory. A possibility is that one port connected to the intake port (between the carb and thermostat housing), another port connected to the carb vacuum advance port, and the third port connected to the distributor vacuum advance.
This setup would give no vacuum advance when the engine was cold, normal vacuum advance at normal operating temperature, and manifold vacuum when the engine was overheating (the manifold vacuum would cause a higher idle, thereby cooling the engine off).
This is just my best quess on the vacuum routing.......
This setup would give no vacuum advance when the engine was cold, normal vacuum advance at normal operating temperature, and manifold vacuum when the engine was overheating (the manifold vacuum would cause a higher idle, thereby cooling the engine off).
This is just my best quess on the vacuum routing.......
#4
#5
#6
Thanks for the replys. The engine came from the factory without catalytic converter and without an air pump. I think the 78 Broncos had the air pollution control(catalytic converter) because they were rated at 6000 lb GVW, whereas the F-150 (6050 GVW) did not. I was asking because I read that the ported vacuum switch also assisted in overheating situations by changing from ported vacuum to full manifold vacuum at low idle situations.
I have an overheating problem(like a lot of people) but not at idle.
What I have done to solve at this point: new water pump, new antifreeze(mixed at 60/40 - will adjust to 50/50 to see if it helps), new 180 Deg F Thermostat(Yes, it does open @ 180 deg F), new thermo clutch fan, burped air out of heater core and radiator, new radiator hoses(no kinks in upper or lower hoses). Also the original shroud is still in place and in good shape.
The overheating problem started BEFORE all the above-mentioned work was done. I am waiting for a new radiator at this point, and will post after the radiator is installed with the results.
The engine gets to the 'p' in Temp during long gradual grades. Using an infrared thermometer, I measured the temp at the top of the radiator at 220 degF and the bottom of the radiator @ 180 degF, but the temp was measured after pulling over to check the temp. The temperature drops quickly after slowing down. The engine has only boiled over just once during a 7% grade pull with a camper trailer
I have an overheating problem(like a lot of people) but not at idle.
What I have done to solve at this point: new water pump, new antifreeze(mixed at 60/40 - will adjust to 50/50 to see if it helps), new 180 Deg F Thermostat(Yes, it does open @ 180 deg F), new thermo clutch fan, burped air out of heater core and radiator, new radiator hoses(no kinks in upper or lower hoses). Also the original shroud is still in place and in good shape.
The overheating problem started BEFORE all the above-mentioned work was done. I am waiting for a new radiator at this point, and will post after the radiator is installed with the results.
The engine gets to the 'p' in Temp during long gradual grades. Using an infrared thermometer, I measured the temp at the top of the radiator at 220 degF and the bottom of the radiator @ 180 degF, but the temp was measured after pulling over to check the temp. The temperature drops quickly after slowing down. The engine has only boiled over just once during a 7% grade pull with a camper trailer
#7
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#9
The engine is also producing a lot less power and HEAT at slower speeds! http://yarchive.net/car/engine_water_restrict.html
#10
I received my new radiator and replaced it. The overheating problem is still evident, but not as bad. The next item to do is to clean the fins on the a/c condenser that fits in front of the radiator. The fins were in good shape but there was a lot of bug guts and small rocks(lots of gravel roads) jammed in between the fins. Does anybody have experience with removing the a/c condenser and seeing a difference in engine temperature?
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