Question
I instaled an ehaust brake that i got off of ebay.I had to unplug the EBPV plug to plug in this new one.Now i have the stock plug just sitting there.I was wondering if I could splice in the wires to the ehaust brake and still have the warm up feature,as I did before i installed the brake.

 

My guess would be yes, but we'll need more detail on what it is you bought off e-bay and how it is setup.
Sounds like they had you run a hot wire to a switch and then force the valve using the switched hot input- is that right?

 

I had to unplug the original plug that went to the EBPV.Then I plug in this harness in its place.The harness has a relay,with a power and a ground,that goes to a switch in the truck.I cant tell how the harness is set up as it is all taped up.And had one wire going to the pedal.The original plug is just sitting there next to the EBPV,not being used.
I was just wondering if I can tap into that harness with the original wires and still have the warm up feature.

 

to the top..

 

here are some links:

http://www.imdl.gatech.edu/ljthawk/h.../exh_brake.htm

This is pretty much how mine is setup. I could't get the cruise control part to work (disables cruise when using exhaust brake). It really wasn't necessary, though. I found if driving with the switch on and I decide to use cruise, sometimes I will forget to turn the switch off. It becomes obvious within 2 seconds and then I shut the switch off.
I didn't like the idea of having to use the service brakes to get the exhaust brake to work- kind of defeats the purpose. I think the IVS is the best way, then just a plain on/off switch would be a close second. If you need more info, let me know. I will dig up the file tonight when I get home.

 

I don't like the method of activation, but this one includes some info on how to do it w/ an automatic transmission. It involves torque converter lockup, so if you have an auto, maybe you can combine the two schematics to make it work the way you want. Customize! Happy 'jaking'.

http://hometown.aol.com/jzettel73/EBPV_brake.html

 

I have an automatic... the harness i got for the torque lock-up had one white wire that connected onto the purple wire with the yellow line. The purple wire comes off the passenger side of the transmission. it ran inside the truck to a 3 prong switch with one prong broken off. the white wire connected into the middle prong. then a white wire ran off the other prong. It connect to my exhaust brake neutral or black wire. apparently, the torque lock-up has to be grounded out to work.

 

Hey underp2, that drawing of the standard tranny is exaclty what i was thinking about doing. I wasnt sure if i needed a diode inline before i tapped in for my switch/diode. Thanks, gotta go and get some supplies!

cheers

 

I started out with a crude toggle to manualy turn the T/C and EBPV on and off. It didn't take long and I copied the principals of one of my older Peterbilts switching systems. You can't buy a system like this anywhere. Cruise control works fine and if you forget to shut the T/C lock off, it disengauges when you step on the brake. When your pulling a hill, you arm the EBPV and the converter lock at the same time but untill you release the throttle that trips a switch your just in T/C lock mode.

 

Hey underp2,

looking at your manual drawing, it shows a diode inline the stock wire run. I know its to keep voltage running the right way since u tapped into the line with the new switch circuit but with a 3 watt diode there dosnt it reduce the stock voltage to the valve? Did it affect the cold start function at all?
cheers

 

Nope. Cold start function works as it always did.

A diode is like a check valve for electricity. No juice goes backwards, but as long as there's a minimal amount of juice going forward, the check allows it through. Apparently the signal is significant enough to pass through the diode and didn't affect the cold weather function of the EBPV.

 

You gotta ask the manufacturer; we could all guess an answer and be wrong.
Warren

 

I understand the wiring and what you propose to do with it. I tell you it is not nesessary. I have had mine simply taped into the EBPV wire for 4 years with no problems at all. If you want to get fancy, you can put a micro switch on the throttle and brake peddle. You can then have the same setup as the big boys. Arm the EBPV and T/C lock and when you crest the hill, let off the throttle and the Exhaust brake and T/C lock are on. Throw your switch the other way and your T/C only is on until you touch the brake. This is handy so you don't forget and kill the engine at a intersection. When you get good, you can take off manualy in first gear with your toe on the brake to 15mph and let off the brake and the T/C locks then you shift the rest of your gears manualy. I call this my "Autostick" conversion. My superduty and Excursion have this. IF you can't make up your mind on the transmission of choice for you, this is the deal.
C

 

a couple of things to add:

1. these trucks are drive by wire - accelerator & brake pedal already have microswitches built into the assembly.
2. it's an exhaust brake, not an engine brake - it won't kill/stall the engine. It actually works really well for warming up the truck in the winter. I start the truck & once it has oil pressure I pull the switch. This fully closes the EBPV, which would take the engine electronics ~ 1 minute to do when cold. Once it realizes how cold it is, it will increase the RPM's appropriately (cold weather function).
3. Some of the other things you've mentioned don't apply to mine, I have amanual.
4. How do you like the 'auto stick' ? I have a 'constant stick'. I love it most of the time, not much fun in heavy traffic.

let me know if I can help any more - this site has helped me a ton!

 

I thought I stated that it was an exhaust brake. I do realize that the trucks drive by wire. What you missed was that with the addition of the micro switchs all you have to do is arm the sytem and when you release the trttle, the exhaust brake comes on. In the auto trans trucks you need to have the converter locked for maximum holding power. With the truck switched in this mode, when you come to a stop it will kill the engine unless it is switched to off or T/C lock mode. In T/C lock mode, the brake micro will disengauge the converter while you have your foot on the peddle. Frrom here you lift enough to roll on your own and speed up to 15mph and let off the throttle and brake at the same time. The converter locks and sounds like a stick shifting. You shift all gears manually. If you can't tell by the intencity, Yes I love it. I did this because there are good times for both and now I have it. My wife is just starting to play with it. She takes off unlocked and flips to lock on the go.