During my engine replacement I noticed that my master cylinder is suffering from incontinence, in other words it leaks. So it's time to replace it with something. Bracket to upgrade is $150 or so...Original is about $85 or so...Next year is the upgrade to cordoba IFS....Question is.......go back original now or bite the bullet and buy the bracket and go dual? ANd if I go dual, will the same MC work for drum/drum now and then disc/drum in the future and disc/disc in the distant future?

Tried the Fred Flintstone thing, wore out my school shoes and dang near my feet. Hollering whoa don't help either


From the outhouse cause I couldn't get him stopped in time

Bubba

 

Bubba,

I wouldn't want to do the MC thing twice if it were my truck. Normally you can't use the same MC for both drums/drums and discs/drums or discs/discs. BUT, you might try this. Go ahead and get the disc/disc MC, but instead of using the fixed proportioning valve, use two inline 10 lb resdual valves...one in front and one in the rear for drums/drums. Then, when you are ready for discs/drums, you replace the 10 lb valve going to the front with a 2 lb, and when are ready for discs/discs you remove both valves and insert a fixed valve or just remove the second 10 lb valve and replace it with a second 2 lb residual valve. I haven't tried this myself, but I've given a lot of thought to it and I can't see why it would not work. The problem I see is that these valves are expensive at about $20 a shot so other than having to change the MC as you progress, the savings won't be much. Don't try to use the MC with drums without the 10 lb valves because it will result in too much pedal travel. It's my own opinion, but I think dics/discs are overkill...discs/drums should be quite adequate...

Vern

 

Incontinence ..... that's funny, I dont' care who you are, that there's funny!

Solution, uh, Depends......If it was me, I'd stick a rebuild kit in the current MC to get by. Hone the inside of the cylinder if it's pitted. New seal should help a bunch as the old one is probably hardened from age.

 

My 1950 Ford rebuild kit was close to $20.00 just bought it this week.

 

Where did you locate the rebuild kit? I needed one for my '60 but I thought they were unavailable.

 

try napa, but www.dennis-carpenter.com has them as well

 

I know it sounds nice to be able to upgrade brakes but you should not use a master cylinder designed for one thing on something else. There is a volume and pressure difference in the master cylinders. You have to use a master cylinder designed for the brake set up you have. If you dont you will have brakes that take two pumps to work or brakes that may not work at all.

 

Bubba

What was the long term brake plan? I'd only do it once. (That's more than a bit of hypocracy from me) It's expensive but probably easier to upgrade leaving the MC under the truck. Or are you planning to use the IFS donor car hanging pedals? There is bound to be a difference in MC volume when you modernize. Others before you have done the real world testing so I would use one that has been done many times successfully. If you are doing the Cordoba IFS then using that master is a good option. It will be factory matched to the front Mopar disks you are adding. The rear Ford wheel cylinders seem to be close enough to Mopar to work fine. You could get an adjustable proportioning valve but I haven't heard of anyone finding it necessary for Cordoba or Volare swaps. Among the other donors in use are 70s Ford light truck and van. 79-93 Mustang is also popular because the brake power booster is tidy. There are many more I'm sure. I have used the Volare and currently using 76 Econoline. Both will stop the truck on a dime. Requires an inch or two of pedal travel and you are stopped. Running the Ford now and it probably has a bit more master volume than necessary.

The IFS vs stock suspension debate may rage on forever, but I assure you won't be sorry if you put power brakes and steering on a daily driver.

 

I am running the original m/c through a Midland hydroboost, 9" rear and Cordoba front end. Stops good.

 

Thanks guys,

In an effort to keep driving and to replace other things, I decided to go back with the original style MC and use the difference in the $ to purchase new wiring. for the underhood area. My reasoning was that the replacement power MC and bracket would run in the neighborhood of $300 when considering bracket, valves, MC, booster and necessary fittings. The OE MC was $82.50. My thought is that when I get the cordoba and crossmember, then I will update to power that matches what I have. In the meantime, I had $200 to buy other needed things, like headlight harness and sockets, gen to regulator wiring, horn relay & wiring, New turn signal box, body harness to rear lighting, taillight crossover wiring.

So now I have plenty to do. I do have manual brakes now but they will be safe brakes with all new parts.

Thnaks for your help and suggestions. And thanks to Dewayne for the suggestion on the MC to use underfloor. You've given me something to look for on the sale table

Bubba not cool enough to have ifs and power stuff