Harpooned today...following the posted procedure (Yellow vent line only).

Pump running at max, shut off no splash back, added .6 gal to the file neck and gone in half the time as before the mod.

Took about 3 hours to do the mod and rotate the tires.

Did I say:

 

rick.wooldridge, do you have a 4x4 with the skid plates?

 

Yes...There was 6 or 8 - 10 mm bolts to get the skid plate off.

 

Should be 10mm bolts on the skid plates and 13mm on the tank straps.

refuse2

 

Thanks, I read Choctaw Bob's description. Got under my truck and saw a lot more hardware with skid plates. No wonder he posts such good 1/4 mile times.

 

Bob what size pipe cutter did you use. or what is the dia of the pipe

 

Go to a hardware store and buy the mini cutter. Its about 1" in dia. Its very thick so don't worry if it seems like it takes along time to get thru.I've heard about useing a soldering iron but never tried it.

Good Luck

 

Go to the underground sprinkler section of the hardware store. What you want looks sorta like pruning shears but the handle ratches as you squeeze it to cut the plastic pipe. Will have a single very sharp blade. You get a clean cut quickly. Probably cost you around $10 plus or minus a couple of bucks.

Bob

 

Thanks for the input, It done. I did the tank yesterday and it only took a coulpe of hours and when I fill in it up it work just advertise. I love it and thanks again to FTE

 

Ditto to Satcom40's message. I did mine in a couple hours as well. The lie-o-meter read 0 miles left, so the tank was light as a feather! The fill-up was unreal! Thanks FTE and Choctaw and everyone else that contributes to this fine site.

A couple notes:

The fuel filler hoses were very hard to break loose for me. I ended up heating the metal with a propane torch and breaking the seals with a pair of channel lock pliers. Then they'd slide right off. It was a warm day too.

The sending unit 6" nut is a bear to thread back on. I had a hard time getting it to grab and not pop loose. I found I had to get it started by tapping it down around the edges, then once it was threading, I seated the unit in the tabs.

Removing the rear wheel really helps. A 2' 2"X8" on the jack pan helps stabilize the tank.

One bolt of my rear strap is unreachable because of some suspension parts. I just bent the strap under the tank and dropped her. The more empty the tank the easier this is.

I went from a 630 to a 700 miles-to-empty reading on the LOM after the mod. Fill up was much faster, but still needs some trickle at the end because of how much the diesel foams.

The only problem I had was adding fuel afterward from a yellow plastic 5G container: it leaked like a screen door, and I spilled more fuel than I added. Anyone know of a portable container that's not junk?!

Thanks to all again for the directions. This was really worth it.

 

An Army Jerry can with the spout the Marines call a "Donkey Dick" will work without leaking.

This was the best mod I did on my truck!

 

snip"I ended up heating the metal with a propane torch"snip

Man you got some gonads. My hat is off to you.

 

NEVER around gasoline. I used a very small flame and was no where near the open end on the tubes to the diesel fuel tank. Forgot to mention I snipped both tubes. I'll look for an adequately endowed fuel can.

 

Did the job today in just under an hour; of course I cheated, I lifted the bed off with a cherry picker (engine hoist) and didn’t have to drop the tank. Eight bed bolts, three filler neck screws and two wire harness connectors and it was done. I’d recommend this method!

 

I agree- this is a very worthwhile mod. Did mine about two months ago and love it. Went from 15 min. fillups to 3 to 4. Just make sure to tighten the notched fuel pump spanner real good. I thought I had mine tight, but she leaked when full. Sure enough, took everything off again and it tightened another half a turn. Presto.

PS- All I used was a sharp utility knife to cut the yellow vent tube. Went through like butter!