I would like to put a newer higher geared rearend in my F-3. I read the article stuck to the top but it is for the F-1. Can anyone tell me if the 3/4 0r 1 ton unit of the same era swap as easily as they do for the F-1. The direct bolt in conversion would be great.

 

You could put any F-1/F-100 and F-2/F-250 from 48-72 in your truck. You may have to change your driveshaft. I've put an F-1 rearend in my M-3 and recently got a '69 F-100 9".

 

Does the F-2 have the same bolt pattern as the F-3? I would like to carry only one spare tire.

 

The F-2 has the exact same rearend as the one in your truck.

 

Great now I just need to find a rear end from a newer truck. Any year reccomendations? The truck will be used on pavement and maybe pull a trailer of dirt or mulch for landscaping

 

What is the stock WMS-WMS measurement for an F3? I'm going to be swapping out a rear also, for a D60. Hoping I don't have to narrow one.

Chuck P
www.oldjeep.com

 

Just find a D60 from a '56-72 F-250 and you shouldn't have any problems bolting it in other than driveshaft.

 

Unfortunately those are the weak 16 spline rear-ends. I plan to use a 35 spline semi-float D60

 

Why do you call it a weak 16 spline ? I am going to be using mine for street use with the factory flat 6.

 

Then it will be fine. Mainly I offroad a heavily modified 46 ****** cj2a with a 35 spline dana 60. We snap the 16 and 30 spline shafts like they were made out of wood. My F3 build up will be using a 455 Olds, TH400 and be used as a tow rig/streetrod so there is almost no chance that a 16 spline shaft will survive.

Although this is not a D60 shaft, it is an example of what happens to the weaker 16 spline units when you apply a whole lot of torque:

 

If your gonna spend all that money to rod the truck how much more would it be to get new axles?

 

It's the difference between cleaning up a $50 Dana 60 and having to narrow the housing and buy $500 worth of custom shafts. We have the jigs to do the housings, but the shafts have to be made by Moser or Dutchman. As far as spending $$$ on building the streetrod, not really. I rebuild my own motors, transmissions, axles and will do the body work as well. The only thing that will be hired out is the paint.

 

What does WMS-WMS mean ? I have my F-3 sitting in the garage with the wheels on and can take a few measurements for you.

 

Wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface. The measurement from the outside of one drum to the other.

 

I swapped a early 70's f250 rear end into my 54 F250 several years ago and it was a bolt in. I went from a 4.86 rear end to a 3.73. It is a lot more road friendly. If you are getting one from a salvage yard, just measure to see if your rear spring perches are in the same distance apart. You might also measure the distance between the backs of the brake drums to see it they are close. I think there was about a 1/2 " to 1" difference in mine, but everything mounted up. Since I also was changing the engine and transmission, I had to get a different drive shaft. You might also need to change the drive shaft because of the input side of the differential being different length. Those old u bolts were a bugger to get off when changing the rear end. about 50 years of rust and grime. Other than that, it wasn't a tough swap.

Husker