i ran a 13.3 1/4 on nitto street tires. I had a 2.01 60 ft. How much do you think i will gain with slicks?
mods: 4lb pully, chiped, shift kit, jlp cold air, exaust, boost by pass, power cooler, on my o1 lightning with 305/40/ 20 nittos.

 

You are going to need traction bars before slicks. I would say get a good set of Rancho style traction bars, and then figure out how to launch with the Nittos. On a half way decent track you should be getting low 1.8's or high 1.7's on the 60' time. Even with F1's low 1.8's are possible if you drive it correctly. You can't overpower them by coming out too high. Launch at just a little above idle and ease into the gas instead of stabbing it. It's going to feel like you are launching too slow but that is MUCH better than any wheel spin. It's too easy to get a little overanxious at the line. It took me awhile to figure out how to launch with F1's.

 

With slicks you can lauch at higher rpms and no tire spin from 1st to 2nd. looking at .5 seconds at the finish. Just look at getting a smaller wheel to compensate for the size of the slicks. Also check into valve job for the tranny, maybe a 4.10 rear end, and i found a company that makes carbon fiber drive shafts ( cuts old shaft wieght by 50%) that translates to more horses at the tires.

 

The Hoosier Quick time Pro tires are the same height as the stock tires (28" tall). You really don't want to go to a smaller tire like the 26" tall ET Streets because it is too much gearing. It will make coming out of the hole even worse and make you max out in RPMs at the top end. Your RWHP and RWTQ will suffer. Adding a 4:10 gear is a bad idea as well, especially with a smaller tire. I've done dyno tests that prove this.

How much weight does the carbon fiber driveshaft save over aluminum?

 

17 lbs compared to the 25 on the steel one. Plus, the cf shaft is more rigid and eleminates the need for a loop. the company claims to have used the same shafts for a full race season & after examining was still in new condition. See link...
http://www.acpt.com/driveshaft/index.html

 

That's a pretty good weight savings on rotating weight.

I would still use a loop. The weak link was caused by axle wrap and breaking U-Joints, not the drive shaft failing.